08 Roof reinstall

[ERHZ4]

Originally the top was very slow to go up. Most of the time it would time out and I would turn the key off and back on and finish the cycle. It would retract halfway then almost just drop into the resting position. I lifted up the rear hoop and pulled the motor. Some fluid was in the motor housing 1/2" at the most, no corrosion, no rust on the motor. The bottom and side sound insulation was damp, but not the top. However the emergency release cable wasn't engaged with the lever on the motor. Took it apart and the release nipple was sticking into the housing. Cleaned it all up.
Here's the fun part. Now the header clamp and unclamp run momentarily. It takes 4/5 button pushes to clamp and unclamp. The roof motor runs briefly at the end of the unclamp. 2 seconds. Fluid is 2/3 full in reservoir, hydraulic lines are on the correct post, 11,12 on top 13,14 on bottom. Emergency release handle is in correct position, shelf switch is engaged. I know that works if I take out the shelf it goes orange on the button. If I connect the motor to the battery it runs but no roof movement. Clamps are unlatched. Any suggestions?

[Clearancediver]

The clamp/unclamp issue…. The arms that engage the top of the window “catches” need to have the rollers (which it catches so to speak) lubricated so that they “roll” as it attempts to clamp on. If they aren’t lubricated and are frozen (rusted etc) the resistance generated is likely why the clamp motor stops after a few seconds and why you need to push the button a second/third time. This is an issue that has been noted in posts over the past 9 years that I’ve been reading the forums.

If you use WD40 to clean the rollers you must use a lubricating oil afterwards. There are marine spray corrosion lubricants that are designed to penetrate and lubricate at same time. This type is the best to use on all the cars hinges and catches.


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[JAS1169]

Originally the top was very slow to go up. Most of the time it would time out and I would turn the key off and back on and finish the cycle. It would retract halfway then almost just drop into the resting position. I lifted up the rear hoop and pulled the motor. Some fluid was in the motor housing 1/2" at the most, no corrosion, no rust on the motor. The bottom and side sound insulation was damp, but not the top. However the emergency release cable wasn't engaged with the lever on the motor. Took it apart and the release nipple was sticking into the housing. Cleaned it all up.
Here's the fun part. Now the header clamp and unclamp run momentarily. It takes 4/5 button pushes to clamp and unclamp. The roof motor runs briefly at the end of the unclamp. 2 seconds. Fluid is 2/3 full in reservoir, hydraulic lines are on the correct post, 11,12 on top 13,14 on bottom. Emergency release handle is in correct position, shelf switch is engaged. I know that works if I take out the shelf it goes orange on the button. If I connect the motor to the battery it runs but no roof movement. Clamps are unlatched. Any suggestions?

First, try lubricating as suggested. I hope that does the trick, if not.

I want to make sure were on the same page with this. In that, you're saying when you push the top-down button, the motor at the windshield runs but doesn't fully release the top from the windshield frame and you must re-push the top-down button multiple times before the top is finally free. If so, watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otCbHnwZ-Ig.

The white plastic gears within the front release system is cracking/failing and allowing things to basically just spin. When pushing the button a few times the gears slowly catch a little on each push to finally release the top.

[ERHZ4]

Thanks for the reply. The header motor and gears are working fine. They had gotten out of sync with the window cycle. I've been disconnecting the battery and while working on the roof and it needed the windows to cycle for the header motor to run correctly. It's the roof opening/closing that is the problem. At this point I have the motor out of the car. When connected to a battery the 12/14 port will push fluid out in a good stream. I reversed the wires expecting fluid would pump out of 11/13 port. But nothing came out of that port. A couple more drops came out of the 12/14 port but not much. So I need to see if I can find info on how this pump should be working.

[JAS1169]

This explains your issue.

Have you recently changed out the motor part of the motor/pump combo? If yes, you made an error during your reassembly of the old pump to the new motor. If no, your pump portion of the motor/pump combo has failed. There isn't a lot of info on the pumps and I'm unaware of any source for just the pump.

Since it's mid-fall you can go manual until next spring and then consider if you want to buy a brand-new motor/pump