1998 328i: Looking for suspension upgrade

[bonoz]

Hey guys,

Trying to revive my 98 328i. The suspension is completely loose in this car. And I was wondering what I could to to upgrade the suspension of this car? I want a tight feel to the car but not super stiff. Want to keep it as a daily driver.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

[pbonsalb]

There are about 30 bushings, ball joints, end links and mounts under the car. Replace them all. Use the M3 parts where they differ like rear ball joints instead of bushings. Maybe add Koni shocks and H&R springs and maybe sway bars.

[bonoz]

There are about 30 bushings, ball joints, end links and mounts under the car. Replace them all. Use the M3 parts where they differ like rear ball joints instead of bushings. Maybe add Koni shocks and H&R springs and maybe sway bars.

Thanks! Has someone done an extensive write-up on this? also are there 'kits' that are available?

[pbonsalb]

FCP Euro has some partial kits. Just keep in mind that many think of suspension as shocks and struts and simply buy stiffer ones to fix their worn out suspension. It fixes one part and exacerbates the slop in the rest.

[bluptgm3]

Hey guys,

Trying to revive my 98 328i. The suspension is completely loose in this car. And I was wondering what I could to to upgrade the suspension of this car? I want a tight feel to the car but not super stiff. Want to keep it as a daily driver.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

How many miles on the chassis?

Get familiar with www.realoem.com
Use the last seven characters of the VIN to isolate that build. E36 is in the ‘Classic’ catalog if you simply ‘jump in’.

Most likely front Tie Rods, Forward Lower Control Arms (generally shy away from URO and Meyle, but buy Meyle HD FLCAs to get an isolated outer ball joint. Lemforder for a discount over OE BMW rubber isolated outer BJ FLCAs.
Replace the FLCA Bushings with those from the 1995M3. They are near solid rubber and offset to add needed caster. Sloppyness in the above parts is felt under braking.

Shocks are typically bad at 30k-60k miles.
You can simply get Sachs OE replacements, KYB parts or upgrade to Koni or Bilstein and add H&R OE Sport springs for a very modest drop.
You will need new dust shields and bump stops front and rear if you replace struts/shocks. You probably need these even if you don’t . Add new Rear Shock Mount from the E46M3/M3 convertible, and Z3 RSM Reinforcement Plates.

If you pull the strut assemblies, add the E36M3 Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates and add these to the build up, possibly replacing the Guide Supports/Strut Mounts






Most likely the Rear Trailing Arm Bushings are torn. You know to be the case if at lower speeds when accelerating hard the car moves to the left or right. The car then shifts back when the throttle is lifted. A sign the rear tires are steering the car.
Replace the RTABs with OEM Lemforder and RTAB Toe Limiters.

The rear upper and rear lower Control Arm Bushings were touched upon above with recommendation to use the outer upper and outer lower ‘Rose Joint’ (same part) from the E36M3.

And then If you are not happy, look into Poly subframe bushing replacements.

Did I mention getting familiar with www.realoem.com so that you can look at part diagrams and understand build ups.


1995M3 FLCABs


325/328/323/318 FLCBs installed in the ‘Lollypops’




Guide Supports

[bonoz]

How many miles on the chassis?

Get familiar with www.realoem.com
Use the last seven characters of the VIN to isolate that build. E36 is in the ‘Classic’ catalog if you simply ‘jump in’.

Most likely front Tie Rods, Forward Lower Control Arms (generally shy away from URO and Meyle, but buy Meyle HD FLCAs to get an isolated outer ball joint. Lemforder for a discount over OE BMW rubber isolated outer BJ FLCAs.
Replace the FLCA Bushings with those from the 1995M3. They are near solid rubber and offset to add needed caster. Sloppyness in the above parts is felt under braking.

Shocks are typically bad at 30k-60k miles.
You can simply get Sachs OE replacements, KYB parts or upgrade to Koni or Bilstein and add H&R OE Sport springs for a very modest drop.
You will need new dust shields and bump stops front and rear if you replace struts/shocks. You probably need these even if you don’t . Add new Rear Shock Mount from the E46M3/M3 convertible, and Z3 RSM Reinforcement Plates.

If you pull the strut assemblies, add the E36M3 Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates and add these to the build up, possibly replacing the Guide Supports/Strut Mounts






Most likely the Rear Trailing Arm Bushings are torn. You know to be the case if at lower speeds when accelerating hard the car moves to the left or right. The car then shifts back when the throttle is lifted. A sign the rear tires are steering the car.
Replace the RTABs with OEM Lemforder and RTAB Toe Limiters.

The rear upper and rear lower Control Arm Bushings were touched upon above with recommendation to use the outer upper and outer lower ‘Rose Joint’ (same part) from the E36M3.

And then If you are not happy, look into Poly subframe bushing replacements.

Did I mention getting familiar with www.realoem.com so that you can look at part diagrams and understand build ups.


1995M3 FLCABs


325/328/323/318 FLCBs installed in the ‘Lollypops’




Guide Supports

Thanks! The car has 155k miles. Does that change anything?

[pbonsalb]

It’s 25 year old car with over 150k miles. Replace every bushing, balljoint, mount and endlink that has not already been replaced.

[bonoz]

Are coilovers overkill for a 328i daily driving purposes? I want to keep ride height stock, but want to replace both struts and springs for better handling. Don't want too rough a ride.

[pbonsalb]

Why would you buy coilovers and keep stock ride height? I’d buy Koni with H&R OE Sport springs if you want mildly firmer but as little lowering as possible. I ran Koni with H&R Sport, which lower a little more, and liked them but eventually changed to TCK SA coilovers with successively stiffer springs and plan to swap less stiff springs back in.

[RBNetEngr]

Are coilovers overkill for a 328i daily driving purposes? I want to keep ride height stock, but want to replace both struts and springs for better handling. Don't want too rough a ride.

I have ST coilovers (ST is owned by KW) on my E36 M3. Ride is great; firmer, but not uncomfortable at all. And they can be set at factory ride height, or drop the ride height over an inch.

All ST coilovers for the E36 (X, XA, XTA and XTA Plus 3) as well as KW (Variant 1, 2 and 3) use the same springs. The difference is with the dampers (material, and whether they have adjustable damping, and some also include adjustable upper strut mounts).

https://stsuspensions.com
https://kwsuspensions.com