New to E90. No start. Using INPA.

[Simon Tibbett]

Hi all, I bought an E90 to turn into a race car for club type endurance races here in the States. The goal replicating a NLS E90 and just having some fun with it.

Anyway, it's a 2006 325I. I purchased it not running. Clean car, 6 speed manual, the price was a no brainer.

The Issues:

Get in car, put FOB into slot. Push in.
Lights on dash come on.
Push to start. Nothing happens. Sits the same. Radio comes on, lights, windows, etc.

What I Have Tried:

Disconnected the battery entirely for the day.
Checked those connections and the IBS cable.
In INPA, verified the key was registering with the car.
In INPA, checked codes, all in German so rough translation still working on that.
Cleared codes anyway. No go.
Removed aftermarket radio setup to ensure nothing was somehow done wrong.
Started checking fuses in dash, have not finished, so far OK.

Previous Owner Notes:

The car ran great before randomly shutting off and not restarting.
This was AFTER they installed a new battery,
Originally thought it was the ELV issue but no red key symbol. Just yellow with a key and a lock with 1 in it.

Right now my project is checking every fuse, trying to register the new battery again in case it wasn't as I read that can be an issue, but not sure where to go after. I am having issues with running Ediabas Toolset 32 for that. I need to get the files loading but theyr'e not.

The car is obviously communicating some from the ECU to the laptop in INPA and some commands will go to the car from INPA. But I'm blocked from making it pass that initial key turn. Any input greatly appreciated.

[marvinstockman]

If you can get to the starter, whack it with a hammer. If it starts, it is most probably worn starter brushes or loose wires.

Is the clutch bypass for the starter engaging? I don't have manual, but sometimes it is as simple as carpet preventing you from depressing the clutch pedal far enough.

Check battery voltage and check if 12 volts is getting to the starter.

[dworthy]

+1

You can check for voltage at the small wire or 15+ when you are pushing the "start" button to see if it's getting 12V. If so then I would change the starter, if not, then it off to find why the starter isn't getting the go signal.

[Simon Tibbett]

I can try that but I’m only in the accessory stage of ignition so it’s not like the fuel pumps are event on or anything that I’m aware of?

[JDStrickland]

I gotta ask the Stupid Question, because I'm good at it.... You hold your foot on the brake, right? Also, when you hold your foot on the brake, the brake lights come on, right? If the Brake Switch is not working, the car won't know that you are holding the brake pedal down. I do not know the interlock situation between starting the car and the clutch pedal, it's entirely possible that you must hold the clutch down and the brake down before the cr will start.

[Simon Tibbett]

It’s not a stupid question because I’m sure it has happened before and I kind of thought of that but in INPA you can see when the clutch is depressed and it’s showing up so I would assume it’s not that

“Edit” Shows brake and clutch I had a Honda that had the clutch switch go out


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[Simon Tibbett]

Anyone make sense of any of this?

I have tried to register the battery with no luck. Also tried to reset ELV. Battery is pretty dead I can only get anything with a jumper plugged into it. I know in the past German cars especially don’t do well with just that.

Screenshots from INPA just now:











Sorry it’s super bright out.


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[dworthy]

Yes, hard to see the screens, perhaps a screenshot would have been better.

From what I can see, there's no issues with the EWS, it's happy.

[Simon Tibbett]

If anyone has this I got the car fired but required a lengthy time on jumper cables. Reset the ELV and a number of other things. Runs super well but still requires a jump. But it never showed the red key light but the steering was indeed locked.


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