I replaced the interior on my z3 coupe 2.8. Through the process I was periodically reconnecting the battery and starting the car but eventually it just didn’t start so I assumed there was a weak charge. When I finally got the interior done I tried to jump it but that didn’t work. I also tried to push start it but that didn’t work either. All the lights in the interior come on and hazards work without jumper cables. I assume the push start would’ve bypassed a faulty starter but I bought a new starter anyway. Before taking my intake manifold off and ruining all gaskets just to replace the starter I wanted to check what else it could be. I didn’t plug some things in like dsc and the obc. Can this be one of the reasons it will not start. Are some of these electrical components part of the EWS or something?
Does the temp gauge peg right when key on by chance?
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Unless you have solid proof that you have an EWS issue (meaning diagnostic scans, etc), I would not jump onto that, as it could be dozens of other things.
Considering you have custom equipment, we will need a lot more detail.
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A good first step, as touched upon in the previous message is if all the modules are booting up.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
I don’t know much when it comes to diagnosing this but here’s a little more detail.
The cluster comes on but none of the gauges move.
Headlights turn on
Obd scanner fails to make connection
No noises when fully turning the key
Last edited by Mpopaj; 09-20-2022 at 04:48 PM.
At what stage of the process did the car begin not starting - I'd start beck there and re-check everything?
What are the specific symptoms - I'm assuming a no-crank if you bought a new starter?
It sounds like either the ignition switch isn't allowing everything to get powered up, or a fuse blew on you and there's no boot up of important items.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
I know it was said not to blame the EWS without solid proof but it is such an easy test so I decided to connect a jumper wire from the two power cables and the car cranks. So I know my starter is good. But what do I look for now? My cluster still doesn’t move and the car cranks but doesn’t start. Also does that mean my EWS is shot or is that just a test for the starter?
I also found that fuse 13 is NOT getting any power. Fuse 18 is good. Those are both fuses for the fuel pump.
It's not the EWS if you have power supply issues elsewhere. Your car is not fully booting up.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
The car was an automatic but the DME was never changed or coded when I did the swap. While plugging things back in I think I didn’t plug the yellow component in (might have thrown it out). I’m pretty sure this was a range selector switch. Can this be causing all of the problems?
Was this auto to manual swap part of the original stuff you've done above?
This is quite a revelation you're posting here now lol
For starter to actuate, the transmission / ews needs to know that you're in Park or Neutral. It needs to be wired in correctly. This is the same place where you'd wire in a clutch switch correctly.
And then going forward, you'll need a vehicle recoding and converting it to manual. Or else you'll have revhang and issues. It's not hard, but it needs to be done right if you want the car to be enjoyable.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
The swap was done awhile ago. I never coded the ecu and have bad rev hang but I just dealt with it. I just threw away the range selector the other day and realized that must be what’s causing it.
Can I make a jump wire for this?
I made a jump wire for the safety neutral switch or range selector switch. It has the same effect as the jumper on the EWS. It just cranks but doesn’t start up. It also didn’t solve any of the issues with the the cluster or the obd connection.
My wife's 99 z3 auto had the emmobilizer go bad. I thought it was starter but when I pulled the intake off to check, it was fine. Started reading and learned about the emmobilizer. Only BMW can change it and reprogram the car. Cost $1000 bucks and 2 days later the car was lost in hurricane Sandy. Argg.
An EWS module is a couple hundred ($201 list; can be gotten for $135) the dealer, pre-prepared for the car. Easy to do at home. You keep your original keys too.
Also no communication with engine ecu means the car isn't booting up.
Let's not get ahead of ourselves. You can crank a starter all you want, if there's no ecu to run it, you're not going anywhere.
Last edited by 328 Power 04; 09-26-2022 at 12:35 AM.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
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