1999 328i 4-speed COIL SPRING QUESTION - suspension KLUNK front and rear

[e464]

I just got this 1999 328i 4 door with 2.8 engine. Problem is front and rear suspension.
It KLUNKS from both front and rear whenever going over ANY bump..
Previous owner wanted performance ride and has SHORT SPRINGS in the suspension(10+ years old).

Sorry, cannot add images at this time.
that when car on jack stands, no wheels, suspension hanging that the springs have no load and I can move the springs up and down like 4+ inches. They are free floating
but when weight on suspension system, they are kinda stay in 1 place. I believe this is my KLUNK.

So the dumb question is is this normal?
I do not care about "performance ride" and am more than willing to buy new springs and shocks front and rear for like $240 all in.
I just want this car to ride "normal", no KLUNK, as I have fixed all other items so it is ready for the road.

Any intelligent comments appreciated. Sorry I know this is an easy one for you,
but not for me. FUI bushings, rubber, and all ball joints tight.

Thank you in advance. (ooops 5 speed duh)

FRONT SOLVED - SEE BELOW

[E39 Newbie]

The suspension, when the car is on jack stands, should not move up and down freely. I think you're right, the clunk is the spring moving around in its perch.

Just toss the whole setup. If you want stock, get the stock springs and Sachs struts. (Use a BMW VIN decoder to see if your car came with stock or sport suspension and buy accordingly).

[e464]

Thank you. Would it be wrong or case problems to puta STOCK SUSPENSION on one built with sport mode at the factory?

[E39 Newbie]

Thank you. Would it be wrong or case problems to puta STOCK SUSPENSION on one built with sport mode at the factory?

I've never tried. All I can say is that when I contacted KYB with a similar question they told me to use parts designated for sport suspension on cars with sport suspension, and vice versa, and to never switch between the two. I was under the assumption that spring height (maybe shock valving, too) were the only differences but they made it seem not. I figure more knowledgeable folks can chime in here.

[e464]

FRONT SOLVED - FRONT SWAY BAR LINKS (2 for $26)
OK, my first check of the sway bar links was not correct.
To check/test sway bar links, disconnect from UPPER MOUNT on shock, and then see what movement you have. This is like 5 minutes to do and well worth it.
Cannot properly test when connected to sway arm and shock tower by just moving it. Need disconnect and move.

STRUTS ALSO - My struts were 18+ years old, coil overs, and very very KRUSTY. Replaced with used OEM struts
and got rid of front end KLUNK.

Lower arms test OK an could be changed out for $100, but I will wait a while. They seem tight enough at this time.


Anyway, front KLUNK solved.

Rear still unknown. Thanks to all