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Thread: 1988 BMW 325i Convertible motor condition question

  1. #1
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    1988 BMW 325i Convertible motor condition question

    Hello, I just bought another 1988 BMW 325i convertible this week that has been in storage for 20 years. 3 years under a carport and 17 years in a warehouse. Body and Interior in amazing condition. The story I was told is the previous car owner's son and friends decided to change the timing belt but didn't finish the job. the parts you normally take off to replace the timing belt were in the trunk. the timing belt was on. I removed the radiator, harmonic balancer, water pump etc. --then --i manually tried to turn the engine over--but it stopped--so i stopped. I took the timing belt covers off and realized the timing marks did not line up. i removed the belt and lined up the marks--and I stopped. of course at this point i dont know if the timing is right. the oil looks clear, the antifreeze looked clean but when i took the water pump off--there was a lot of slug and of course it was totally froze up. it looked like there was a little oil mixed within the slug but maybe not. So here is my question: should I go ahead and install a new water pump and timing belt/tensioner on it (I've done this already twice on different BMWs) or should I first move deeper into the engine and remove the head, etc to see if any damage was done?---my thought is--maybe they decided to change the timing belt because the belt broke. If the belt did break then possible internal damage was done. I just want to get some thoughts on what i should do next. maybe that is why it set for 20 years. thanks for your thoughts--mark

  2. #2
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    If you have the belt on with the timing marks lined up, I would install the tensioner and try turning the motor again before tearing the engine down more. You may not even need to install the water pump to test that out.

  3. #3
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    +1When a engine sits for a long time, the coolant can turn to jelly. Install the belt and see if the motor turns over, also I would pull the plug and do a borescope to see if there are any impacts on the pistons.
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  4. #4
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    thanks guys---good ideas---i will try both your suggestions. i did check to see if the number 1 plug was not TDC and it is.

    - - - Updated - - -

    i will go to habor frieght to see if they have a borescope

  5. #5
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    thanks guys--probably more questions later but i did put the new timing belt/tensioner on with the timing marks lined up--and manually turned it with ease. no disruptions --turned it several times. went to Loews tonight--they had a scope but it was about 90 bucks--so i will hit AutoZone or Advance auto to see if they have a loaner scope. Maybe tomorrow i can install the new water pump and thermostat. i did disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail and regulator--I will pull the back seat and see what the gas tank, pump etc looks like--cant be any worse than the last one i cleaned out. last one i cleaned out---removed all the old gas- then power washed it the best i could--drained/vacuumed water out--then -i filled it with vinegar--let the acid in the vinegar work for a couple of days --- drained it out---then vacuumed it ---and used a heat gun to dry it completely---if u know a better way---please let me know. thanks again--mark

  6. #6
    dworthy's Avatar
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    If you don't mind dropping the tank, you can use small rocks with thinner if there's a lot of gunk in the tank. Close it up the best you can and take it for a drive down a bumpy road to get the mixture swirling around.

    Blow out the fuel lines and I would send the injectors off to these guys for cleaning/rebuilding: RC Fuel Injection
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    If there’s rust in the tank, por15 makes a product that you pour in and it seals the inside of the tank. If there’s rust and isn’t dealt with it will ruin the fuel pump and filter.

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    pull the valve cover and look for any broken rockers before starting. you may be able to tell if a valve or two got bent as well. the only reason to quit in the middle of a belt replacement is if it snapped and the PO tried a fix on the cheap with just a new belt.

  9. #9
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    thanks for your thoughts--i didnt see the last message from 82 eye before i did the following------Ok---put the timing belt/tensioner on--put the harmonic balancer on as well as the distributor rotor and cap just to see if it would try to start with a little starting fluid. my neighbor turned the key---it has a sound like when a starter spins but doesnt engage--just the sound i identified it with. the timing belt turned. cam shaft turned---i checked all the pistons to see if they were moving up and down and they were. But I dont feel like i have but very very little compression. i put my hand over the ---cant think of what it is called---but the rubber hose that connects to the throttle body--and very very little suction. ---i havent done a compression test--but i have an idea that the compression is very low. like i stated earlier--just the sound is not right--but all parts are moving. Any thoughts on my next step to take?

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    thanks concerning the gas tank---yea--i disconnected the fuel lines --and when the engine turned over--or even the key turned on--no gas came out of the lines so but i havent got to the fuel tank yet but most like the pump is bad

    - - - Updated - - -

    i did get a borescope from Autozone--loaner tool----i have only looked into one plug hole

  10. #10
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    thanks--i just heard the tanks are hard to get off because the way they are positioned. last bmw i rebuilt my own injectors---but not sure if i did it right--i did make a device with a battery to have cleaner to push through the injector and i installed the new parts on each injector--maybe my way is not the best.

  11. #11
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    You can do that, I am not sure how effective it is. I have used those guys in the past for my 95 318is and this is the sheet they sent me.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
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    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
    M-Flight Member

  12. #12
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    put the timing belt/tensioner on--put the harmonic balancer on as well as the distributor rotor and cap just to see if it would try to start with a little starting fluid. my neighbor turned the key---it has a sound like when a starter spins but doesnt engage--just the sound i identified it with. the timing belt turned. cam shaft turned---i checked all the pistons to see if they were moving up and down and they were. But I dont feel like i have but very very little compression. i put my hand over the ---cant think of what it is called---but the rubber hose that connects to the throttle body--and very very little suction. ---i havent done a compression test--but i have an idea that the compression is very low. like i stated earlier--just the sound is not right--but all parts are moving. Any thoughts on my next step to take?

    - - - Updated - - -

    thanks--not sure what it means in their terms concerning dripping---but I'm sure that is the best way cause not sure my cleaning would get to 100%---did u see my other post ---i resend it to you-----put the timing belt/tensioner on--put the harmonic balancer on as well as the distributor rotor and cap just to see if it would try to start with a little starting fluid. my neighbor turned the key---it has a sound like when a starter spins but doesnt engage--just the sound i identified it with. the timing belt turned. cam shaft turned---i checked all the pistons to see if they were moving up and down and they were. But I dont feel like i have but very very little compression. i put my hand over the ---cant think of what it is called---but the rubber hose that connects to the throttle body--and very very little suction. ---i havent done a compression test--but i have an idea that the compression is very low. like i stated earlier--just the sound is not right--but all parts are moving. Any thoughts on my next step to take?

  13. #13
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    well--i did a compression test on all cylinders---0 pressure in all cylinders.

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    Could the timing be off? Could you have valve damage without hearing it now that you put it back in time?

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    0 compression in all cylinders seems to point to valves not closing at the right time or at all? I'm not positive though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by markbimmer View Post
    well--i did a compression test on all cylinders---0 pressure in all cylinders.

    time to pull the head. with luck you can get away with a head refresh and cleaning up the scoring on the piston tops.

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    Did you check the compression with a squirt of oil in each cylinder?
    2000 740i Sport | 2004 330xi | 1988 325i Vert | 2003 Z4 2.5 | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    Did you check the compression with a squirt of oil in each cylinder?
    i'm guessing it's well past a wet test. i'm certain the PO broke the belt with it spinning hard. half or more of the valves are gonna be bent. i'd wager it needs a rocker or two as well.

  18. #18
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    thanks guys--never tried any oil right before compression test today----i did fog each plug before i even tried to turn it over--cause i knew it had been sitting for around 20 years. I think it is time to pull the valve cover and head. i did borescope each cylinder--looked like a couple of pistons had a brake --but i really couldn't tell for sure with the camera. this BMW is an automatic--i have another one exactly the same year and model--but it is a 5speed. not sure how much has to be done moving from an auto tranny to a 5 speed.

  19. #19
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    Pretty straight forward, you will need the pedal box and center consul from the manual car and then I do believe the driveshaft as well. As there's no major electronics involved, the clutch switch for the manual. That should tie into the PND switch IIRC.
    Darin
    Current:
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    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
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    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
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    I have twice to post detailed response to no avail. Will try again later.
    Last edited by PEZ2; 09-09-2022 at 08:07 AM. Reason: Software issue 2

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    thanks ---that might be the course of action i take in the future--switching from auto to manual

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    so i took the valve cover off--and found a piece broken off. Im not sure what you call it--maybe part of rocker

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    Quote Originally Posted by markbimmer View Post
    so i took the valve cover off--and found a piece broken off. Im not sure what you call it--maybe part of rocker

    you should be able to see any damaged rockers. they're right on top. would be nice if you were closer, i replaced mine with hd rockers on a rebuild, and have a real good used set.

    you'll need to pull the head as there will be damaged valves and piston tops. any bent / broken valves will need replaced, and there will be scoring on the piston tops. most times you can smooth out the piston tops and re-use if you have to do it cheap.

  24. #24
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    thanks---my first time to dive into a rebuild but i am curios to try it -- it was a rocker --i took a pic of it but dont know how to add it here - it was like totally broke and just lying on top--I assume the cam shaft if ok? it only has 119,000 miles on it--at least that is what it says.

  25. #25
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    rocker pic

    here is the pic--not sure if it attaches
    IMG_2285.jpg

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    i will try to pull the head the next day or so

    - - - Updated - - -

    i will try to pull the head the next day or so

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