Picked up a 525i for $2300. Would die and idle horrible at startup, and then a little better when it warmed up. Previous owner had no clue why, so he sold it to me for cheap. Outside and inside of the car is in pretty good shape, I put it on the lift at work, and it is absolutely rust free, no major leaks, looks amazing on the underside!
Turned out both intake boots were cracked BAD! Replaced, and starts up and drives amazing now!
My last question, is around 70mph+, WHEN ACCELERATING, the car seems to shake. When no throttle is being applied, it's smooth. Under 70ish, it drives beautifully. Transmission shifts really smooth, no lag, no slips, no jerks, etc.
Anyone have any ideas? Could it be something as simple as out of balance tires or sparks/coils? I figured out of balance tires will shake regardless of acceleration at certain speed bands.
I definitely believe spark plugs could be into play, as I think it still has misfire codes.
If anyone has driven a 335i N54, or a E9X or something around that time with faulty sparks/coils, occasionally if you do a pull with worn sparks or coils, you'll get a half engine light for about a minute, and the car will shake BAD when accelerating, but fine when not. Then the code clears on its own and back to normal. It's sort of like that, except not as intense.
Anyone have any input? I'm sure the sparks are well past their prime, so I plan on doing those as well, but want to get some input as well.
Other than that, the light check module is bad, it'll say "CHECK X LIGHT" for every exterior light when starts up, but they all work fine.
Thanks all!
Last edited by tennessee335i; 08-28-2022 at 02:18 PM.
Re shaking, could be a worn pot in the drive-by-wire system, but that should throw a code. IIRC, both the foot pedal and the throttle body each have a pair of pots that provide a check on its partner.
The NGK BKR6EQUP is specified for all E39 engines.
Have you checked the CHMSL for a bad bulb? You may need a BMW-specific scan tool to interrogate the LKM. Don't know what "CHECK X LIGHT" means.
Sometimes the LKM gets damaged by water intrusion.
Last edited by edjack; 08-28-2022 at 02:40 PM.
Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.
I was thinking, from his statement, driveshaft center bearing. The wheel balancing, it would shake wether on the throttle, or not, at that particular speed. The light control checks, are all the bulbs incandescent bulbs? I have a set of LED license plate lights in my silver wagon, they were supposed to have the correct resistance as the incandescent bulb fixtures, but suddenly, soon after I installed them, my LCM started throwing random check code warnings, like check license plate bulbs, check low beam bulbs, check high beam bulbs, and check fog light bulbs. They all work, but the LED license plate bulbs are the culprit. If your bulbs are all the correct specific incandescent ones, check all the connections, clean all the contacts, use CRC electronic spray cleaner. If it is still going on, then start suspecting the LCM to be acting up. Maybe some water has been overflowing in the sunroof cassette, due to a blockage in the drain hoses, LCM is in the right front kick panel underneath the dash. Pull the trim loose, pull the carpet down, check for traces of moisture that might have dripped down through the light control module box. If it did, water will run right through the circuit board, the LCM’s box has large cooling holes in it, and water will flow right through. You will see if the circuit board has corrosion right through the holes. If it is bad, you need to find another one, (junkyard) but it has to be equivalent, or newer, and it has to get coded to your car. The LCM also monitors the true mileage of your car.
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As Ed was saying, it could be a bulb. Just because one is working, doesn’t mean it is in perfect condition. It could be a bad filament, but still contacting the other end, and a bounce on the road could cause a disconnect, and then fall back and reconnect.
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
No codes except for misfires and I think some O2 sensor codes. I used my shop's extremely expensive Autel scanner. Transmission had 0 faults, just had a bunch of engine faults from before I fixed the major vacuum leak. I should take it up there and rescan it. I think it is a misfire, because even after fixing the vac leak, it would occasionally shake on idle. Shut off and restart car, and it's all good.. Other than that, just small electrical codes related to that LKM I believed you mentioned, and a few small things.
The speed dependent shaking is what's not making sense to me. It's not a huge deal, just something I would like to get fixed. I will probably end up doing sparks and an oil change before I sell it.I checked the oil before I bought it, still was at a good level. No clue on how long it's been in there. It sat for many months before I purchased it.
The check X light means when you start it up, it will say like CHECK PASSENGER REAR LIGHT, and keep cycling through the whole list of external lights. The X was just a place holder. Only does it on start up.
I haven't looked into the car too much, I really just don't have much time, but would love to get some ideas for when I do get time to check it out. As of now, the shaking at 70ish + MPH is my main goal...
I'm also thinking driveshaft carrier bearing. I'm in Ooltewah and if I wasn't busy with trying to finish the E60 M5 6 speed manual conversion, I'd help you out pinpointing the issue.
2010 BMW M6 SMG Coupe * Black Saphire Metallic * Full Leather Merino Black
2019 BMW X3 M40i * Alpine White * Mocha Leather
Former:
1997 BMW 532M (528i with 3.2 S52 engine from E36 M3 / 5 speed manual)
1998 BMW 540i 6 Speed
2003 BMW M5
and the mileage of this flip project?
Current Garage Highlights
2003 525iT TiSilver
2002 M5 TiSilver
1998 528i KASCHMIRBEIGE METALLIC (301) (Goldie)
Former Garage Highlights
2005 X5 4.8is
2004 325iTs (2x)
1973 Pantera L
1971 Dodge Dart Swinger "Lite Package"
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 340 Six Pack GoManGo Green
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Barracuda Formula S 340 Sea Foam Green
If you ever want to meet up, that would be great. I work at Mountain View Nissan of Cleveland, so if you ever wanted to we could get it on a lift in my bay. I'm in a standalone building.
No problem though. I will research that carrier bearing. Good luck with the project.
Thank you.
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150k. A little high, but I have a few prospective buyers already. Just don't want to sell them something that isn't up to my standards as a tech.
150k isn't high, it's just past the basic maintenance to get there (@150k), and now at the full maintenance cycle of needing everything.
Haha! True. Yeah, 150,000, the car just finally popped it’s cherry. I’ve had a 540 that had 230,000, got it with 75,000, a 2000 528 wagon with 231,000, when I totaled it into a wall at 75mph in reverse…. A 2001 530 that I picked up at 80,000, sold it at 180,000, that was a great car! Not one problem on it. A 2003 525 currently with 385,000, runs like a champ, I would hop in that thing and drive out to California if I had to, tomorrow. But thank God, I do not have to drive out to that retarded stupid state, my 2001 540 is right at 150,000 right now, got that one with 112,000. 150,000 is nothing on these cars. The 540 is gonna be needing the chain guides done, so I have not been driving that anymore, until it gets done. My green 2000 528 only has 90,000 on the clock, that car runs like a brand new E39. The silver 525, everything has been done, hard to believe it has 385,000, but the cats are now rattling around, gonna have to swap them out.
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
I'm super glad to hear that these vehicles are quality.. no idea how it was treated, but I saw an obituary for an old man in the visor, and the interior is in pretty good shape. I don't think teenagers or 20 somethings buy these models to beat on, unlike 3 series.. assuming it was a granny car... well, the style of the car screams granny car at least lol.
My 08 335i is at 204k and has given me no trouble, but I have done a lot of preventative maintenance (the car DID have a flawless maintenance record all at the BMW dealership, all warranties and recalls done like HPFP and turbos) and re did the suspension with second hand, low mile parts. Cost maybe $350 for all 4 shocks/struts, all front control arms, and sway bar end links. All leaky gaskets are done. Going to have to do the clutch here soon, but this car is stupid easy to drop the trans, compared to the newer FWD vehicles I do at work.
Hey, since you know a lot on these cars, the car runs and drives super smooth (seems like it may have a slight misfire at start, but I know the sparks need to be done), but when it's idling the engine bay is a little rackety. Not anything concerning, but kinda sounds like a misfiring n54. But it drives super smooth.
Last edited by tennessee335i; 09-08-2022 at 09:19 PM.
I had to go back to your first post to see what I’ve forgotten that you’ve already done. You already changed out the intake boots, done some vacuum repair, make sure you have not missed anything. Check all the CCV plastic hoses, those are famous for being brittle at this age. The misfires at start up, I used to have an issue like this, same as yours, my 2003 525 would be ok once warm, but then developed a weird hiccup. This went on for about a year. It was so intermittent, never got a code. Once the hiccups started up, I’d be driving along, and suddenly, a hiccup would occur, an instantaneous loss of power for like a split second, then the car would continue running fine. A month later, it did it again, then it started to get worse, it started to do it a couple times a week. Then one day, instead of the hiccup, the engine just cuts off at speed. Put the trans into neutral while still rolling down the road, start it up, and the car would run like nothing happened. That cut off occurred about once a month, still no codes at all. But on a cold start, sometimes I would hop out of the car, go into the house to get something, come out, the engine cut out. Start it up, it ran fine. So it was really annoying to not have a clue, no codes nothing. I was thinking cam sensors, or the crank sensor, but was sure that if that was it, the stupid car should have had some codes. Anyway, it progressed into more of an every other day type of an issue.
Last winter, I had purchased a 2001 330ci convertible as a flipper, it had a few simple issues, and one major issue that allowed me to get the car at a steal. 84,500 miles on the clock, it needed tie rod ends, and had a leaky valve cover gasket which was causing it to have two misfire codes, the coils were fine, I swapped out the plugs, the car ran better, but I was still getting the misfires. Those went away when I replaced the valve cover gaskets. Drove the car for a few weeks, then one night on my way home from work, stopped to pick up some food, as I was pulling out of the parking lot, the engine cuts out, start it up, engine is running really rough, engine light is on. I managed to back the car up into a parking space, revved her up, as soon as I put it back into gear, the engine quits, I’m thinking, cam sensors, lucky guess, I did have my Cornwell scanner in the glove box, and sure enough, the intake cam sensor was bad. Cleared the codes, car started running fine, drove it home and shut it down. So I was ordering the sensor, FCP had a sale going on, and I ended up ordering four cam sensors, the intake, and exhaust cam sensors, one set for the convertible, another set for the silver wagon. But I also ordered the crank sensor because I had always guessed that that was the problem. Anyway, the cam sensors fixed the 330 and it ran like a champ. Just had the one serious fix to do on it, before I could sell it. Don’t know why, but the convertible top’s frame had gotten mangled on the drivers side. The PO purchased a perfect used frame, thought he was gonna be able to figure it out, then realized that it was way over his head. When the local independent BMW shop quoted him $3500, he decided to put the car up for sale, I saw the ad 5 mins after he posted it, knew there was something seriously wrong with it for the price he was asking. When he told me what the issues were, I picked it up. It was a pain in the a$$, but I figured it out, got it all swapped out, enjoyed the car for a month and sold it for a decent profit.
Then I got on the silver wagon. Started it up, forgot to mention that the issue had gotten so bad, the car was running like crap, I had parked it, still no engine light, and had been driving the convertible, So the day that I decided to tackle the wagon, I started it up, it was really running like a turd, as I was pulling it up on to my driveway, it got even worse. Like it was that kid, Damien in the movie The Omen, and the parents were taking him to church, and he totally freaked out, the wagon was doing the same thing! As I got it up on the driveway, the engine quit, and wouldn’t start up again…. Low and behold! The engine light came on! And it was the crank sensor, True story!
I pulled the drivers side cabin filter box out of the way to get to the crank sensor, pulled that sucker out, and it had this fine slit of a cut in the sensors flat spot, I pressed on it, and oil came out. The feeling I had when I said to myself, “I knew it!!!”, PRICELESS!!! Swapped in the new sensor, and the car is once again running like a champ! Actually, it was still running like a misfiring turd on the first start. Once I cleared the code, then it has been running fine since. Maybe, I don’t know, maybe you might be having that same issue, but definitely swap out your plugs first, see how that goes. I still have the intake and exhaust cam sensors as spares, never put them in. Also, only get BMW sensors if you end up having to get them.
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
So I took a video of the idle noise tonight, as you can see, no shaking at all. Just that noise.. Although the car runs great and idles smooth, the noise is off putting. You may need to listen closely to hear what I am referring to, kind of hard to hear, but there definitely is more than just a standard engine purr in there. https://imgur.com/a/ZqA9sTW But yes, I will probably end up looking through for any other brittle plastic. I just am not sure why the car would run and drive just fine but have that odd sound at idle. I lost out on my sale today because of that noise . Although, the potential buyer was a man's son who was 16 was wanting to buy a 20 year old BMW, and his father who had mechanic knowledge came along to check it out. I had just assumed it was someone wanting it as a project. I would not recommend even a 5 year old BMW to someone who had just gotten their license . Pay to play in the German car game. I did send a nice message to his son stating that if he really did want an older BMW, to definitely buy one with a good maintenance record, and absolutely overpay for one with good records, and this one definitely still needed a little love. It would be an excellent option for someone with a main car that wants an older BMW to restore. They were good people though.
Hopefully the video/audio clip may help, but spark plugs are on the list of things needing replacement. I figured I would try to sell it as it is now, BUT whatever will fix that sound, I am willing to fix. Definitely is off putting. Like you, this is a flipper for me. Started off the guy selling it because it would die on startup unless given throttle, misfire bad, and drive like crap. Turns out just needed the intake boots replaced. Drives great besides that noise now.
You definitely seem like you know a thing or two about these. They do seem like very simple engines, with lots of space for work. This one is rust free, and has no major leaks too .
I put it on my shop's Autel scanner. Had 0 codes besides in the engine section, which was mostly related to the vacuum leak. Haven't checked it since.
Well if you have any advice, do let me know. From what you've said about your experience, seems like these motors are basically bulletproof, and mostly just simple repairs to get them running right again. No cam codes, most of them were just O2 sensor/lean codes/startup misfires from that vac leak. Definitely let me know if you have any input, would love to hear back.
Thanks again.
Last edited by tennessee335i; 09-11-2022 at 09:14 PM.
Gave that this a listen, are you talking about that clacking sound? I was thinking Vanos seals, but could be wrong. Could be a bad pulley bearing, maybe pull the belts off and run it, see if the sound went away, go from there.
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
Last edited by tennessee335i; 09-12-2022 at 08:28 AM.
That’s the sound I was noticing, the low clacking like sound. Look up the worn Vanos sound from M62tu videos. Never heard it from an i6 before, but that’s what I think I hear. Not sure if it was on this thread, try pulling the belts off to see if you can hear it better, or a bad pulley bearing is what you might be hearing. Microphones are funny things. Make another video with the microphone the way you had it, and then step away from the car a little bit, then try placing the camera underneath the engine, to give better context, different angles of the sound.
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
Def check pulleys. Also, a bum fan clutch will make really strange noises. With engine off, push and pull, front to back, on the fan. There should be no movement. If there is, bad clutch. With engine hot and running, gently push a folded magazine into the back of the spinning fan, much like playing cards in bicycle spokes (showing my age). If it takes little pressure to stop the fan, it's a bad clutch. My E39 was making a weird noise that was hard to figure. Turned out to be the fan clutch.
Current stable:
2002 525i (Daily Driver)
1994 SN95 Mustang 'Vert (The Bumblebee)
2001 325i Convertible (Beach cruiser project)
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