I have a 328is that is currently my daily, I want to start to autox and build this car into a handling machine, while still being able to dd and use during college.
what im looking for is something that can give me the most adjustment really.
Any advice or opinions is just all good to me.
200kmiles
have:
scorpion catback
bc racing coils (ds series)
style 32s
front strut reinforcements
done:
full cooling overhaul (aluminum rad, therm housing, expansion, waterpump, pulleys and belts)
Valve cover gasket
plugs
fluids refresh
What I plan to do with this car already is run full revshift 95a poly and do reinforcements for subframe, rtabs, front subframe, rear strut mounts)
cad/3d print break cooling ducts.
long term plans:
summer tires
x brace
330 front calipers, 328 rears (e46), if can source a porsche bbk for cheap
zhp rack
h&r arb
3.23 lsd
e34 steering adapter
slr angle kit (ackerman adjustment, roll center and bump steer correction)
strut bars
You need to get a hold of the rule book for the class you plan to run in Autocross.
It is likely that the brake caliper changes as you mention will bump you into a class of which you will have no hope of being competitive.
You also mention wheel changes, you don’t mention diameter. Additionally, you mention a differential gearing change. Changing the ratio and/or adding limited slip may also dive a class change. Wheel diameter could as well.
Last edited by bluptgm3; 08-21-2022 at 12:19 AM.
Your subject line is about Suspension Advice, but with all the non-suspension details you put into the message, you didn’t say anything about what areas of the suspension you’re seeking advice for. Other than wanting to build a handling machine that you can also DD.
What is your budget?
What don’t you like about the BC DS coilovers?
Based on the SLR control arms, are you planning to use it for drifting?
What is your skill level as a driver? How many years of experience?
What do you know about suspension adjustment to tune the suspension properly?
Oh yes, I probably should be taking consideration of the class that I want to run before doing all this work, but most of it Im considering long term. Currently I okay with just mounting bigger tires on my 17x8 styles and getting pads and going out there, as I am new this car and this sort of driving. Thank you
I see how this thread my be misleading, as to reiterating what I wanted to ask mainly. What are the opinions and advice that others have for my long term roadmap for my e36 build. What I mainly want to focus around is considering what parts I would need to give me the most adjustment possible. I don't have much experience being a driver or rather, no experience at all, never been to a autocross. Though I still want to keep a peace in mind that I need to car to still commute me through my college life so I cant go crazy, which wouldn't be nice since driving this car daily is so fun.
As for budget, I don't see myself considering that an issue, this is a long-term build that I would keep adding onto as I become a more experienced driver and find that I need more. At the end of the day, I just want clarification onto as what is the right recipe for this platform to build upon.
Personally I find that the coil-overs with their damper adjustment are enough to what a coil-over really can do for my needs.
Ive heard that the roll center is drastically changes when lowering the car due the way e36 suspension geometry is set up, so correcting that should in theory give much better cornering stability with better tire performance.
I was just considering the SLR kit, not primarily for drifting though I like the fact that it can change the steering output and angle too if I want to drift. Though ackermann settings are something I want to investigate into as well with different courses and tracks, I find that interesting.
I dont have much driver experience, just the occasional mountain runs (why I want to autox, light track maybe???). its something that I've always wanted to work on.
Though I don't have much experience driving, my understanding of suspension geometry and kinematics and how they affect vehicle dynamic characteristics I feel definitively make up for it (setting up and tuning cars).
Rather than just telling all about myself, I want to hear about what the autox and e36 platform is about and what some advice people based on their experiences are like, and like I said before, just a longterm roadmap, not gonna go crazy within the next year, this is probably a 3 year thing.
not a lot of people here will have experience with the SLR stuff. its mostly used for drifting. in my opinion, the bump steer correction and faster steering(40% faster with slr) is GOLD for a racecar but you dont need to worry about the ackerman too much.
don't over think it. just worry about good base settings and work your way out from here. i would start with -3.5 camber in front and -2.5 in the rear(need rear camber arms). then a very small amount of toe-out in the front and a small amount of toe-in in the rear.
also, those style 32's have a 21mm difference in scrub radius compared to stock wheels. this is gonna hurt your turn-in and front tire wear big time. you really want to stay as close to stock ET as possible. I wouldn't go lower than 35mm. stock e36 is 41mm IIRC. you can run 20mm offset(style 32, 5, 19, etc.) but you're gonna need a big sticky tire to negate the effects of too much scrub.
you can also modify KPI easily on e36 with these bimmerworld parts. this will get you in a batter range for camber adjustment. you will need less adjustment at the top of the strut for negative camber.
after you get your wheels situated, install some SLR stuff, find suspensions settings you're happy with, do all of your maintenance, change all rubber to poly/solid/spherical, then i suggest you beef up the sway bars with hotchkis stuff.
hope this helps!!
While a great suggestion, use care when installing the camber correction shims from BimmerWorld. These rotate the King Pin/Spindle about the upper horizontal mounting bolt, closing the gap between the tire and the strut. You may end up having to run a ~5mm spacer to clear the tire.
Style 32 wheels are one of my favorites.
The were fit on the E36 in 15” (most common) 16” and 17”.
7JX15 ET:47
7JX16 ET:46
7 1/2JX17 ET:41
8 1/2JX17 ET:41
The 5 series also was fit with Style 32 in 16”, 17” and 18”, which as mentioned have incorrect backspacing
9JX18 ET:24
8JX18 ET:20
8JX17 ET:20
9JX17 ET:26
7JX16 ET:20
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=36_2181
Last edited by bluptgm3; 08-22-2022 at 01:43 PM.
great info!! e36 style 32 are so rare I just assume others are running the e39 style 32.
And OP, you are asking about maximum adjustability... SLR has camber plates for the top of the strut that offer all kinds of adjustment for both camber and caster. they also have lower control arm bushings that have caster adjustment as well!
wow you guys are great, thanks so much about this, really sets a whole other perspective!!
The only thing I’ll add is to move the X brace further up your priority list.
They can be had used quite cheaply and well worth it. Mandatory I’d say if you plan to run slicks.
The SLR FLCAs add track width. The added width may be hard to cover w/stock fenders. Added track hampers turn in and may not be desirable on the street. Adding track width with control arms alone adds camber that maybe undesirable on a street car.
Last edited by bluptgm3; 09-13-2022 at 10:16 AM.
SLR offers a half kit so you can use the stock control arm.
I know excessive scrub radius would negatively affect turn-in, but if done correctly, I don't think adding track will have any negative affects on turn-in. If anything, I would think adding track via control arms would have a positive affect. I am no expert, so please correct me if i'm wrong.
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