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Thread: Window Not Going All The Way Down (New Regulator URO)

  1. #1
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    Window Not Going All The Way Down (New Regulator URO)

    Hey all, looking for some ideas here. I installed a new regulator on my 02 540iA sport's driver side. I've done the project before on the rear driver so I know what I'm doing (I think). I bought the URO "Premium" part for about $100 because it was advertised as being superior to the OEM part. I Installed it without too much if a problem. However, the window won't go all the way down. Ioosened all of the screws and tried to force the entire assemble as low as possible but just not happening. here is a video of the setup and problem in live action. TIA for your help! https://photos.app.goo.gl/JBdaJoZkiLRm5vkJ6

  2. #2
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    Search my posts on this. These clowns screwed up the stamping for the frame. You have to “adjust” it with a hammer and drift. If you’re not comfortable doing that, contact them and they should send you another.

  3. #3
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    I believe this is normal. I remember reading a post on this board from the Uro rep to that effect. I had to replace mine with a Uro, as nothing else was available at the time, and mine also does that, although I think mine goes just a tad lower. But the Uro units won't get the top of the glass flush with the edge of the opening.
    Current stable:
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    2001 325i Convertible (Beach cruiser project)

  4. #4
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    You loosened up all the bolts and tried to lower the whole assembly, when you say that, I take it you are talking about the whole regulator, right? What about the glass on those clamps? Did you loosen that and push the glass down some more? If that is bottomed out all the way, then that regulator is just being true to it’s URO roots, live with it.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  5. #5
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    Uro brand parts. Perfect if you run a buy here, pay here used car lot where the #1 imperative is that it is cheap and #2 is for it to perform the function long enough for the salesman to see tail lights.
    Fact is they offer items poorly reverse engineered, poorly built with crap materials by the cheapest, clearly unskilled, laborers on earth. It gets shipped out the door as fast as they can crank it out knowing full well there will be a high failure rate. You see, YOU are the quality control that discovers these failures or just plain incorrectly "engineered" or assembled parts.

    "Aw, sorry your part doesn't work, we'll get you another." Of course you will be the one with skinned knuckles doing the job, AGAIN, should you choose another dose of the same medicine that didn't work the first time.

    Some have had good experiences using this brand (even the blind squirrel sometimes finds a nut) but the consensus among those with experience is to stay far, far away.
    Seems Uro has a guy who's job is to parachute into various car forums for damage control when the negative chatter gets loud enough.
    Perhaps he'll chime in to convince you that the crappy part you bought isn't.
    Last edited by ross1; 07-22-2022 at 10:00 AM.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  6. #6
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    OEM fronts are expensive, OEM fronts fail eventually, OEM fronts at least work properly.

    The E39 isn't perfect and noone is going to re-engineer the regulator from the ground up. Be thankful after the E39 regulators are no longer an issue.

    Buy OEM from FCP Euro and call it a day, $600 later, that's what I did.
    Last edited by Dking078; 07-22-2022 at 03:38 PM.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dking078 View Post
    OEM fronts are expensive, OEM fronts fail eventually, OEM fronts at least work properly.

    The E39 isn't perfect and noone is going to re-engineer the regulator from the ground up. Be thankful after the E39 regulators are no longer an issue.

    By OEM from FCP Euro and call it a day, $600 later, that's what I did.
    And that is what I have been an advocate of all these years. Why waste time buying the cheap junk, but most importantly, why waste time? Sure, the BMW regs also fail, but They never failed on me until the car reached 90,000 miles, I was dumb enough to buy cheap stuff three to four times over, finally got fed up having to go back in after 3 to 5000 miles, spend more now, save money in the long run, and most importantly, your time.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  8. #8
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    Bought one product from them that held up for a whole week. After that the new COOLANT BOTTLE cracked in a WTF place. It’s enough to read about the uro junk to stay away from it, few positive reviews.

  9. #9
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    My fear is that as these cars age, stuff like Uro are the only brands we will be able to find as replacements. Especially for those of us who value OEM quality.
    Resident Third World Country Advisor

  10. #10
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    Might be time to buy a few part cars and drop them on the front yard. Shouldn’t be too much hassle with our current HOA I reckon ��

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kallekula View Post
    Might be time to buy a few part cars and drop them on the front yard.
    That's probably the worst part of owning an aging car IMO. Deciding if it's worth wasting money and hoarding parts you may not use at all, or risk it and just test your luck once you actually need something (or the third option: get rid of the car). I chose to risk it with my 50 yo Corolla. Now anything that shows up on eBay is 10x overpriced, or crap quality and other parts are unobtanium, like glass.

    That s... keeps me up at night sometimes.
    Last edited by crdiscoverer; 07-23-2022 at 11:08 AM.
    Resident Third World Country Advisor

  12. #12
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    I have an old Volvo as a spare car. Very reliable and almost a must when you have an old bmw that requires some tlc.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    Uro brand parts. Perfect if you run a buy here, pay here used car lot where the #1 imperative is that it is cheap and #2 is for it to perform the function long enough for the salesman to see tail lights.
    Fact is they offer items poorly reverse engineered, poorly built with crap materials by the cheapest, clearly unskilled, laborers on earth. It gets shipped out the door as fast as they can crank it out knowing full well there will be a high failure rate. You see, YOU are the quality control that discovers these failures or just plain incorrectly "engineered" or assembled parts.

    "Aw, sorry your part doesn't work, we'll get you another." Of course you will be the one with skinned knuckles doing the job, AGAIN, should you choose another dose of the same medicine that didn't work the first time.

    Some have had good experiences using this brand (even the blind squirrel sometimes finds a nut) but the consensus among those with experience is to stay far, far away.
    Seems Uro has a guy who's job is to parachute into various car forums for damage control when the negative chatter gets loud enough.
    Perhaps he'll chime in to convince you that the crappy part you bought isn't.
    Aww, c'mon, Ross1!! Don't mince words. How do you REALLY feel?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by crdiscoverer View Post
    My fear is that as these cars age, stuff like Uro are the only brands we will be able to find as replacements. Especially for those of us who value OEM quality.
    This is a very good point. When I replace mine, it was beginning to make crackly noises so I figured I'd better be proactive. Well... nothing was available. Gennies were all out of stock. Good OEM likewise. I could get URO or I could get nothing. It's been just over a year and so far so good. But you point stands. At some point BMW is going to quit manufacturing them. Then what?
    Current stable:
    2002 525i (Daily Driver)
    1994 SN95 Mustang 'Vert (The Bumblebee)
    2001 325i Convertible (Beach cruiser project)

  14. #14
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    [QUOTE=E39 Newbie;30818897]Aww, c'mon, Ross1!! Don't mince words. How do you REALLY feel?

    With their engineering and manufacturing prowess they ought to be making the tchotchkes given away at conventions.
    I once had a deck of playing cards with a vendors name on the back from some convention years ago. Seemed to be a decent, useful give away item. When I opened them, I swear to God, the cards were all printed in black and white, spades, clubs, hearts and diamonds, ALL printed in black ink.

    - - - Updated - - -

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khameinei View Post
    Hey all, looking for some ideas here. I installed a new regulator on my 02 540iA sport's driver side. I've done the project before on the rear driver so I know what I'm doing (I think). I bought the URO "Premium" part for about $100 because it was advertised as being superior to the OEM part. I Installed it without too much if a problem. However, the window won't go all the way down. Ioosened all of the screws and tried to force the entire assemble as low as possible but just not happening. here is a video of the setup and problem in live action. TIA for your help! https://photos.app.goo.gl/JBdaJoZkiLRm5vkJ6
    My experience with Uro window mechanisms may be an outlier, but they have worked perfectly for several years -- one in the drivers door and one in right rear door.

  16. #16
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    Hi guys, the reason why our window regulators 51 33 8 252 393-PRM and 51 33 8 252 394-PRM don't go down quite all the way is we redesigned them with a reversed cable track. The OE design (and other aftermarket regulators) have a cable shuttle that travels inside the track, so cable tension is always trying to pull the shuttle out of the track (which eventually leads to failure). Our track is reversed so the cable is fully captured inside the metal channel, which eliminates the shuttle and thereby eliminates this common failure mode.

    We sell more than 500 of each side annually, only have about 1% returned (for any reason), and this is only the third complaint we've received about the glass not going down all the way. Yes it would be ideal if the glass went down all the way, but we think the durability improvement thanks to the reversed track is worth it.

    window-regulator-track.jpg

    Great reviews on Amazon:

    May 30, 2022: This is the one to get
    "This is the one to get. It fits perfectly and is a breeze to install..."

    April 5, 2022: Recommend
    "Definitely recommend this revised model regulator"

    October 17, 2020: Great part, decent price
    "Great part, better design than OEM..."

    February 19, 2020: Great Design
    "So far way better than oem and much much better than other cheapo models"

    October 17, 2019 Highest quality regulator on the market
    "By far the best aftermarket window regulator. Quality built unlike the other garbage in the market place. Well worth the price. Installed it and it works like the OEM. The pullys are made with ball bearings so they operate better than the other after market ones"

    Last edited by URO Parts; 08-02-2022 at 01:12 PM.


  17. #17
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    My E39 wagon has had Uro window regulators on all 4 corners for 3+ years now and I just ordered a Uro regulator for my E53 when the Meyle unit that was in there from the previous owner failed (I also have another Uro regulator in the E53 that replaced an OE regulator). My E39 windows go down all the way with the Uro regulators

    OE units are known to be a problem, the original parts are basically a joke so I don't understand why people insist original is best for this part. They actually look at what fails on the original parts and improve upon the original design. Plus you can buy 4 window regulators with a lifetime warranty for the price of ONE OE regulator (that has no warranty). That's an absolute no-brainer to me. I would wager that most of those talking poorly of Uro have never used their window regulators

  18. #18
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    Hard pill to swallow, since they have such a wonderful track record on everything else that they make. I know even you can’t argue about that. But I’ve already told myself, the next time I need to replace a regulator, I was gonna ….. eeek! Buy a URO reg and see how well it lasts. But all the OEM regulators I have gone with on my cars, are all still holding up well, so far.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmrMeUpSnotty View Post
    Hard pill to swallow, since they have such a wonderful track record on everything else that they make. I know even you can’t argue about that. But I’ve already told myself, the next time I need to replace a regulator, I was gonna ….. eeek! Buy a URO reg and see how well it lasts. But all the OEM regulators I have gone with on my cars, are all still holding up well, so far.
    If you do I'd be curious to know why they don't roll down all the way. Uro guy's explanation strains credulity.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  20. #20
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    Well, all my regs on all my cars are in working order right now, whenever they break, if these Uro regs are still around, I’ll try one.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    My E39 wagon has had Uro window regulators on all 4 corners for 3+ years now
    Do your windows roll all the way down?

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    Do your windows roll all the way down?
    I put a Uro on my driver side and it does not roll all the way down. The rear edge sticks up maybe 1/4".
    Current stable:
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    1994 SN95 Mustang 'Vert (The Bumblebee)
    2001 325i Convertible (Beach cruiser project)

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    Do your windows roll all the way down?
    Yes all my windows go all the way down the same as factory. Maybe the mould has shifted over the years and new regulators are not rolling down all the way for some reason but when I bought mine years ago I didn't have any issues and didn't have to modify them in any way. I just got my Uro regulator for my E53 in the mail and it looks identical to the Meyle I took out, save for a couple differences at the rolling wheels on the ends and the drive wheel (and the fact that the cable is still attached on the new unit, lol)

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    Yes all my windows go all the way down the same as factory. Maybe the mould has shifted over the years and new regulators are not rolling down all the way for some reason but when I bought mine years ago I didn't have any issues and didn't have to modify them in any way. I just got my Uro regulator for my E53 in the mail and it looks identical to the Meyle I took out, save for a couple differences at the rolling wheels on the ends and the drive wheel (and the fact that the cable is still attached on the new unit, lol)
    Happy to hear that yours are satisfactory and roll all the way down. Interesting though, as Uro guy has expressed that a bit not retracting is by design, a function of their improvements.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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