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Thread: NLA GT Class 2 front Splitter hardware

  1. #26
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    The information I compiled does not include the radiator mount details (now I need to dig into that deeper). It has the details on the oil cooler itself, its mounting and duct work, hoses etc.

    "Rubber Mounting" has a different part number between MZ3 and M3Euro, but I think that is for the line mounting to the body clamp...

    I'll get this answer.
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  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    Jim, do you need to swap lower rad supports, or does it mount to the US supports without needing to change? I haven't seen this mentioned except just now by tiMASTER. I looked up the lower bracket on RealOEM and it seems like it’s common for ALL E36.
    If you're talking about the lower brackets 17 11 1 723 337 they are the same. For the most part all the hardware is the same. I did not compare the aero stuff since I'm using the GT splitter.

    The radiators are nearly exact replicas except for the core.






  3. #28
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    Awesome photos. You can’t see these details in real OEM and they aren’t littering junkyards around here either.

    Thanks for taking the time to post them!

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim E. View Post
    If you're talking about the lower brackets 17 11 1 723 337 they are the same. For the most part all the hardware is the same. I did not compare the aero stuff since I'm using the GT splitter.

    The radiators are nearly exact replicas except for the core.
    That's surprising - it almost looks like you could mount the oil cooler to it.

    I'm getting all the GT splitter stuff and internal ducting and will be swapping all that over at the same time.

    That's interesting - does the oil cooler nest up inside the end tabs? I thought it just kind of hung off the bottom.

    Does the oil cooler butt up flush down against the bottom aluminum duct?

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    That's surprising - it almost looks like you could mount the oil cooler to it.

    I'm getting all the GT splitter stuff and internal ducting and will be swapping all that over at the same time.

    That's interesting - does the oil cooler nest up inside the end tabs? I thought it just kind of hung off the bottom.

    Does the oil cooler butt up flush down against the bottom aluminum duct?
    I'm pretty sure you'd have to fabricate some sort of bracket to make it work with the US radiator and possibly cut ducting etc....

    The oil cooler is designed to fit in the space.

    See how it sits in the space with the tab inserted?



    And cannot with the US radiator:




    As an aside, if you decide to use the euro M3 radiator, you'll need to relocate the expansion tank and have the proper euro brackets (2) installed. The expansion tank is the same one used on the E30 M3. There are other parts too but those are easy to look up and install. And that damn sound insulation piece that has the cutout to accommodate the firewall bracket is f'n expensive for what it is! ~$150!





    Engine with oil cooler lines for reference:

    Last edited by Jim E.; 08-04-2022 at 01:32 PM.

  6. #31
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    Fantastic photos! These are immensely helpful!
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  7. #32
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    That looks about how I thought - I just didn't realize the oil cooler nested up inside the ends of the radiator. Is the overall height of the Euro rad + Oil cooler taller? I don't see any other parts in RealOEM that would close the gap, so I assumed they (combined) butted / were flush against that aluminum bottom duct / tray. Is that right?

    As for the expansion tank, I wondered the same thing, but found this thread where Brett said both the shroud and expansion tank fit normally: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6#post28845686

    Obviously there was a complaint that some things weren't quite a factory fit - thus the thread - but overall seems like the normal US shroud and expansion tank will work just fine.

    Not that I'm super opposed to it, I just already have a fairly large sized project on my hands without the extra complication.

    That, and I placed the order with Schmiedmann (87 items altogether!) this morning and would prefer not to complicate / mess up something by adding stuff to the order after the fact. (I all the associated hardware for both the oil cooler and the front splitter and everything from Schmiedmann except the radiator, thermostat, and thermostat gasket because I wanted to get those from FCP for warranty reasons).

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    That looks about how I thought - I just didn't realize the oil cooler nested up inside the ends of the radiator. Is the overall height of the Euro rad + Oil cooler taller? I don't see any other parts in RealOEM that would close the gap, so I assumed they (combined) butted / were flush against that aluminum bottom duct / tray. Is that right?

    As for the expansion tank, I wondered the same thing, but found this thread where Brett said both the shroud and expansion tank fit normally: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...6#post28845686

    Obviously there was a complaint that some things weren't quite a factory fit - thus the thread - but overall seems like the normal US shroud and expansion tank will work just fine.

    Not that I'm super opposed to it, I just already have a fairly large sized project on my hands without the extra complication.

    That, and I placed the order with Schmiedmann (87 items altogether!) this morning and would prefer not to complicate / mess up something by adding stuff to the order after the fact. (I all the associated hardware for both the oil cooler and the front splitter and everything from Schmiedmann except the radiator, thermostat, and thermostat gasket because I wanted to get those from FCP for warranty reasons).
    Yes the overall height of the euro rad. + oil cooler is taller that the overall US setup. I believe it butts up against the aluminum part but I never had it on since my car was going to be taken apart.

    I assumed (wrongfully) you were going to do the full euro setup which is why I showed the brackets. I do know (and as Brett has pointed out) that all the US stuff will fit the euro radiator. Remember I said they were pretty much identical (other than core) including the two holes for the plastic expanding rivets to hold the shroud.

    Yes it most definitely is more work I agree. It's not absolutely necessary. If memory serves me correctly since there is no bleed screw on the euro setup it vents automatically during the filling process via the vent pipe.

    I also forgot that you likely have the SAP. That could complicate things too.
    Last edited by Jim E.; 08-04-2022 at 05:01 PM.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim E. View Post
    Yes the overall height of the euro rad. + oil cooler is taller that the overall US setup. I believe it butts up against the aluminum part but I never had it on since my car was going to be taken apart.

    I assumed (wrongfully) you were going to do the full euro setup which is why I showed the brackets. I do know (and as Brett has pointed out) that all the US stuff will fit the euro radiator. Remember I said they were pretty much identical (other than core) including the two holes for the plastic expanding rivets to hold the shroud.

    Yes it most definitely is more work I agree. It's not absolutely necessary. If memory serves me correctly since there is no bleed screw on the euro setup it vents automatically during the filling process via the vent pipe.

    I also forgot that you likely have the SAP. That could complicate things too.
    Yeah, I actually went to a lot of work to keep it when I installed long tubes, and now I kind of regret it since my cats have died and my car is old enough I don't need them anymore. Not that having it present bothers me really, but it does complicate things like the euro expansion tank setup.

    I probably will eventually make the swap sometime when I have stuff taken apart and have good access. But I've got a lot of moving parts going on right now and this is already a fairly big case of while-you're-in-there-itis. I needed to do the GT splitter at the same time to guarantee fitment, which more than doubled the price tag and amount of effort and more than quadrupled the number of parts needed. And I need to get the rear GT wing painted and installed as well as finally fix some damage from getting rear-ended almost 2 years ago.

    And all (hopefully) before a track day mid September...

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  10. #35
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    Just to piggyback on this I am wrapping up an install of the Genuine BMW 281 Radiator with new US shroud and expansion tank and all mounting points are identical and fit is 1:1 in my 1999. I used Brett's cooling system update list and all worked out great. I would recommend adding a new bleed screw cap to the install (17111723580). My current was still okay but not a solid snap fit so I'm waiting for that final part to add coolant and bleed the system. Also installed a new fan clutch and fan. Could not believe how much gunk and crap was in my factory fan clutch. I don't have plans for the oil cooler so no comment there.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nova1 View Post
    Just to piggyback on this I am wrapping up an install of the Genuine BMW 281 Radiator with new US shroud and expansion tank and all mounting points are identical and fit is 1:1 in my 1999. I used Brett's cooling system update list and all worked out great. I would recommend adding a new bleed screw cap to the install (17111723580). My current was still okay but not a solid snap fit so I'm waiting for that final part to add coolant and bleed the system. Also installed a new fan clutch and fan. Could not believe how much gunk and crap was in my factory fan clutch. I don't have plans for the oil cooler so no comment there.
    That clip can be changed at any time. Finish the job now and drive. There's zero reason to wait, all it does it help retain the expansion tank within the shroud.

    Added that to the list. Great suggestion.
    Last edited by Braymond141; 08-04-2022 at 06:37 PM.

  12. #37
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    Sweet! Bumper is pre-drilled for the splitter mounts!

    20220820_103133.jpg

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  13. #38
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    Yep!

    Mine was too. Very handy.

  14. #39
    NeilM is offline Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim E. View Post
    And that damn sound insulation piece that has the cutout to accommodate the firewall bracket is f'n expensive for what it is! ~$150!




    I didn’t find it necessary to have a cutout for that firewall bracket. The normal pattern sound insulation piece — which BTW isn’t cheap either! — accommodated itself to the bracket just fine. But I’m pretty sure it’d be easy to notch that out yourself if required.

    Having a properly self-bleeding cooling system is great.

    Neil
    Last edited by NeilM; 08-22-2022 at 10:08 AM.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeilM View Post
    I didn’t find it necessary to have a cutout for that firewall bracket. The normal pattern sound insulation piece — which BTW isn’t cheap either! — accommodated itself to the bracket just fine. But I’m pretty sure it’d be easy to notch that out yourself if required.

    Having a properly self-bleeding cooling system is great.

    Neil
    Then you didn’t install the bracket correctly.

    I already removed the bracket on Jim’s car that the last guy thought wasn’t necessary to get right. What he posted is the correct way to do it.
    Last edited by Braymond141; 08-22-2022 at 11:31 AM.

  16. #41
    NeilM is offline Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
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    Quote Originally Posted by Braymond141 View Post
    Then you didn’t install the bracket correctly.

    I already removed the bracket on Jim’s car that the last guy thought wasn’t necessary to get right. What he posted is the correct way to do it.
    Define “correctly”.

  17. #42
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    I have nearly everything in hand, planning to install on Saturday.

    The aluminum center duct looks like it bolts to the frame, not to the other ducting - is this correct?

    If so, I see slots for one of those plastic nutserts or something, but I don't have any - does anyone have a part number for those?

  18. #43
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    Yes that is correct. I believe the nutsert part number is 51718242741. Though I could be wrong, I remembered I ordered a couple different styles and my car already had 2 nutserts present.

    Edit: 63171367868 and 07146976114 were the other styles I ordered...they are cheap. Sorry I do not remember which were the correct ones...I believe 51718242741 is correct but again I am not 100%
    Last edited by sirhodjibob; 09-08-2022 at 02:38 PM.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by sirhodjibob View Post
    Yes that is correct. I believe the nutsert part number is 51718242741. Though I could be wrong, I remembered I ordered a couple different styles and my car already had 2 nutserts present.

    Edit: 63171367868 and 07146976114 were the other styles I ordered...they are cheap. Sorry I do not remember which were the correct ones...I believe 51718242741 is correct but again I am not 100%
    I was down by the dealer earlier and they had the 7868 and 6114, which both looked essentially the same. I didn't like how these looked - they looked too square. I didn't have the part number for the narrower 2741, so I didn't get any of those - of course, those are the right ones. But thank you - I have to back down there today, so that I'll have them in hand later today.

    LOL - so many little nit-picky details no matter HOW much homework you do!

    [Edit] I tried the ones I have - they fit just fine. Visually they seemed too wide, but they stayed put and should work without any issues. So for future reference, they should all work, though I'll admit that the 51718242741 one is probably the "correct" one.

    It does seem like there will still be a 1"-2" gap between the oil cooler and the bottom of the aluminum plate. I'll confirm once I get it all installed, but I many need to install something to seal against the bottom of the oil cooler.

    There are just so many different bottom pieces, and it seems like you actually need both the aluminum bottom plate AND at least one of the other bottom plastic pieces.
    Last edited by blckstrm; 09-08-2022 at 04:52 PM.

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by blckstrm View Post
    I was down by the dealer earlier and they had the 7868 and 6114, which both looked essentially the same. I didn't like how these looked - they looked too square. I didn't have the part number for the narrower 2741, so I didn't get any of those - of course, those are the right ones. But thank you - I have to back down there today, so that I'll have them in hand later today.

    LOL - so many little nit-picky details no matter HOW much homework you do!

    [Edit] I tried the ones I have - they fit just fine. Visually they seemed too wide, but they stayed put and should work without any issues. So for future reference, they should all work, though I'll admit that the 51718242741 one is probably the "correct" one.

    It does seem like there will still be a 1"-2" gap between the oil cooler and the bottom of the aluminum plate. I'll confirm once I get it all installed, but I many need to install something to seal against the bottom of the oil cooler.

    There are just so many different bottom pieces, and it seems like you actually need both the aluminum bottom plate AND at least one of the other bottom plastic pieces.
    I wonder if the missing piece is the mysterious 51718135939

    Edit: Wait a sec, you are running the oil cooler ducting right? 51712253303. This part I do have installed on my car (despite lack of oil cooler)
    Last edited by sirhodjibob; 09-08-2022 at 11:39 PM.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by sirhodjibob View Post
    I wonder if the missing piece is the mysterious 51718135939

    Edit: Wait a sec, you are running the oil cooler ducting right? 51712253303. This part I do have installed on my car (despite lack of oil cooler)
    I'm not running the oil cooler ducting because I'm installing the factory GT front splitter and didn't want to buy and install it just to hack it to pieces. However, that mysterious piece may be what's missing.

    I have some pieces of soft/squishy pipe insulation, and I think installing that over a small piece of aluminum angle iron would stay in place and provide a seal along the bottom without being too harsh on the oil cooler. I'm going to slot that into the two slots on either side of the the aluminum undertray. It's kind of disappointing to come this far with factory parts only to have to rig something to complete it, but I've learned the hard way that it's important for the air flow coming in to be sealed off as much as possible, and it's 100% reversible if we do figure out the actual part later.

    [Edit] It's just occurred to me that after all the back and forth on it, I actually DO have room to install the Zionsville oil cooler, which has double the capacity of the factory cooler and doesn't actually cost much more. As hot as it gets down here, I don't see how that's a bad thing. I'd probably have to get them to hurry it, though - my track day next weekend is just about here.

    [Edit#2] I meant to ask - did you cut your bumper out to only clear the center splitter bracket, or to clear the entire aluminum undertray? I can see that the tray CAN fit above the bumper, but I wonder if it'll cause it to interfere with the splitter and make it overly hard to adjust.
    Last edited by blckstrm; 09-09-2022 at 01:31 AM.

    -Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.

  22. #47
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    No you do not need to cut the front bumper for the aluminum air duct, but unless you get the GT/Lightweight front bumper then you will need to cut it for the splitter support brackets. The aluminum air duct is shaped to clear these.

  23. #48
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    I ended up cutting my bumper cover. I did search realoem (at the time) to try and find the “correct” bumper cover and failed.

    Do we have the pre-cut bumper cover part number?

    And (I’m asking a lot here) is there a complete list of parts needed to add the euro oil cooler and all the ductwork under a car that did not have it originally, or so I need to print the US M3 list and the Euro list and distill it myself?

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiMASTER View Post
    I ended up cutting my bumper cover. I did search realoem (at the time) to try and find the “correct” bumper cover and failed.

    Do we have the pre-cut bumper cover part number?

    And (I’m asking a lot here) is there a complete list of parts needed to add the euro oil cooler and all the ductwork under a car that did not have it originally, or so I need to print the US M3 list and the Euro list and distill it myself?
    Lol - I thought I just did all of this, though obviously I missed several things.

    Also, my list includes all the splitter hardware, and some of the ductwork comes from that list.

    Also, I just yesterday saw the actual correct side ducting that attaches to the oil cooler ducting - I'll find that and include it for you when I get a second. That should be a fairly complete list...

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiMASTER View Post
    I ended up cutting my bumper cover. I did search realoem (at the time) to try and find the “correct” bumper cover and failed.

    Do we have the pre-cut bumper cover part number?

    And (I’m asking a lot here) is there a complete list of parts needed to add the euro oil cooler and all the ductwork under a car that did not have it originally, or so I need to print the US M3 list and the Euro list and distill it myself?
    Part number for the "precut" bumper is 51112264370

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