Your battery voltage is way too low, can you charge the battery.
I’ll give you more places to check after you get the battery voltage up to at least 12.4-12.5 volts.
Page 3 (Throttle Body)
#4 Measure the voltage between pins 4 and 6, key in position 2. Step on the gas to the floor, does the voltage change? What are you reading?
#5 Measure the voltage between pins 3 and 5, key in position 2.
865F0C82-F65F-4357-BD54-7BDF816ACE7C.jpg
Last edited by Romanleal99; 07-17-2022 at 06:15 PM.
I tried to back probe the connector with some real skinny pins, couldn’t get a good connection.
Next I used a few common pins and pierced the wire and got these readings.
I had the key in position 2, engine not running.
3 to 5 should read 5 volts regardless where the pedal is, the 5 volts comes from the DME.
1 to 3 will read 4.3 volts if you don’t touch the pedal and 0.6 volts with the pedal floored.
I didn’t bother with 2 to 3 as it should be the same.
Before you deep 6 the DME check these out.
Pins 3 and 5 on the throttle body go to the middle connector on the DME, that’s the (X60003) 52 pin connector.
Pin 3 on the TB connects to pin 10 (X60003) on the DME
If you look closely you’ll see PIN numbers on either the plug or the DME connector.
Pin 5 on the TB also goes to the same connector, it connects to pin 25.
See if you have 5 volts at pin 10 to pin 25.
There are two 9 pin connectors at each end of the DME, one is power and ground, the other is for the coils.
X60001 is the power connector.
Pins 4, 5, and 6 are ground.
Pin 7 (key off or off) should read 12 volts. It comes from F4.
Pin 8 (key on) should read 12 volts. It comes from the DME relay and F1.
I'm having having a similar problem and following this closely. (Thank you, Jim!)
@Romanleal99 -- You probably know this, but one has to be careful when getting a 0 volt reading. You might not have good contact, especially when it's so hard to know whether the pins are making good contact through the insulation.
(In my case I'd cut the wires to splice in a larger N62 TB, so it's easy for easy for me to disconnect the splices and get good contact. I got 5 volts at 3-5, 0 volts at 1-3. Next I'll do what Jim suggests in post #32.)
Last edited by R Shaffner; 07-22-2022 at 05:44 PM.
Sorry for the no reply Jim, I had taken the cover off the dme and found a burnt spot on one of pins that comes from the 60003 connector. I decided to send my DME, EWS, and key out to program for a Reman DME. I also found that oil had been wicking from my crank position sensor off the transmission. I peeled back the insulation on wires and applied solder to prevent oil traveling up the harness. Eta for my DME to arrive is Tuesday, July 26th. When I get the DME back I’ll be sure to report back if this fixes the problem.
Later that day I removed the heat shrink from the wire and got direct contact, readings were still 0v unfortunately.. Just sent out my dme due to possible ecu damage. My thermostat was not the culprit, im still leaning on the o2 sensors as the culprit, but a fuse should had blown.. I’ll write back when I install the new dme..
Unfortunately, no. It looked like a really poor repair tbh.. probably from the previous owner. I tore off the entire engine and trans harness to clean it from all the oil that had been wicking.. I found no exposed wires that could possibly cause the short. Fixed the broken o2 harness as well.. Just hoping the new ecu doesn’t get burnt like the old.
I think my issue involves the pedal more than the TB, so I started another thread on it.
This is a good read gents, thanks for the deep dive and I hope you get it sorted soon. I noticed in my recent work that a lot of the insulation on the wires in my (M62) engine harness is getting fairly brittle. I also found one of the locking “tabs” missing from my throttle body plug (seems to be holding ok with the other side only). When you guys discuss repairing a short or failed connector, are you opening the harness up completely, stripping out the old and then running new wires from the connector (or a new connector) all the way back to the DME? I’d be a bit afraid that I would damage other wires in the process.
I was considering buying a used harness and doing a slow motion rebuild on it over time, and then swapping it in for my OE harness. The state of the insulation on individual wires makes me nervous. Thanks all and sorry for the slight thread drift.
Last edited by Henn28; 07-24-2022 at 10:33 AM.
Current BMW
2002 E53 X5 4.6i (4.4 to 4.6 swap)
Former BMWs
1996 BMW Z3
1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan
2004 BMW E46 M3
When I rewired my throttle body harness, I removed the cover that houses the wires above the injectors. There’s a rubber grommet on the box towards the front of the car that allows the throttle body wires to pass through. I couldn’t remove mine, so I slit the bottom of it to allow it to come off and on as I need. i then follows the wires that go into one of the wiring looms and cut that open. Be careful when doing this because there’s multiple connectors that pass through. From there it’s just a matter of cutting the wires and soldering the new harness / wires in place.
I was lucky enough to source a good condition harness connector at the junkyard. At that point you can source a new harness connector and associated wires.
Im sure there’s a part number out there for a new harness connector, but I wasn’t able to find one…
Last edited by Romanleal99; 07-24-2022 at 01:14 PM.
Thanks for the reply. I am surprised that BMW still sells the new harness, but it’s way too expensive to consider.
Current BMW
2002 E53 X5 4.6i (4.4 to 4.6 swap)
Former BMWs
1996 BMW Z3
1998 BMW E36 M3 Sedan
2004 BMW E46 M3
Just got the replacement DME. Solved the issue. Car finally runs. The guys who programmed my ews and old dme to the new dme, said that one of the grounds on the dme board was fried due to the o2 sensor harness shorting out. Hope this never happens to anyone else.
Last edited by Romanleal99; 07-28-2022 at 05:06 PM.
Excellent, good to hear it’s fixed.
Persistence pays off!
Hey Jim, was wondering if you’re familiar with inpa… I downloaded the file from bimmer geeks and followed all directions. When I launch inpa, I’m getting no black dot saying ignition is on, only cable connected..
I’ve only used INPA a few times.
What cable are you using from your computer to the diagnostic port under the hood?
If you go into the Devices does it see the cable?
Maybe Chedley will see this post, he knows more about INPA.
You should get both ignition and battery highlighted when you start up INPA, after connecting the inpa cable between the laptop and the car, and turning the key to position 2.
If NOT, you have a configuration problem : either software (check the settings of the usb connection on the laptop) , or hardware -maybe wrong cable-, or wrong switch position on the cable, or...
OK. I just read your previous posts. Forget bimmergeeks.
Download then install the software (Easy-BMW-Tools) from link on first post of "Miike's easy BMW tools" (https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/m...ackage.879366/)
If you have the right inpa cable, it will automatically configure it. So you just connect the cable to the Windows laptop, click on install,,,et voila. Magic....!! You are in business.
Here is the llink : https://mega.nz/file/kAASwa7I#AJLVnn...2BsZofE-TBYGmk
Many users turn off their anti-virus software when downloading, installing or running INPA. Actually I recommend it, because some anti-virus may flag it. so...
Last edited by Chedley; 09-30-2022 at 10:28 PM.
One other thing to mention…
I had an old version of INPA on my computer which worked, and then downloaded the Mike’s Easy BMW tools.
I couldn’t get it to work. I tried my old INPA, that stopped working too.
I then deleted my old INPA and the Mike’s downloaded INPA started working.
You may want to delete your current INPA before you download and install Mike’s INPA.
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