Start of my 530iT m60b30>m60b40 swap. What worth replacing?

[Deanx2009]

Hey all.

I have a "guaranteed" m60b40 engine from a local dismantler and they claim is has 80k miles or less.

Engine compression is tested and "good" from the company. If the engine has any issues I can warranty and exchange it.

I have the engine out and I'm about to put it on the engine stand to do some work, but I don't think it makes sense to do a full rebuild due to the warranty.

I was thinking of doing all valve cover gaskets, valley pan and gasket, water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, rear main seal, oil pan gaskets and crank/cam shaft sensors while it was out-now debating doing a full timing chain kit refresh.

With the cost of the tools and timing kit I'm at about 1k ish. Is it worth changing this while the engine is out? Or is the job reasonable enough to do later (if the engine is good with no issues, maybe 2 years and 20k from now?)

It's easy to get carried away with an engine refresh and I'd hate to have a warranty issue and have all those new timing parts in the engine. Maybe just change the chain guides?

Without the timing stuff itl be around 900 for all the parts listed including new coolant hoses and random intake bits.


Excited to start!



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[m60power]

Sounds like a fun project! I definitely understand the concern of throwing a bunch of parts / time / money at refreshing things in the event the motor turns out to be a dud and needs to be warrantied.

I would leak down test and compression test all the cylinders before installing the engine in the car. I'm not sure if it's technically feasible to compression test with the motor on a stand, but I would guess you could bolt up the starter, install a flywheel or automatic trans flex plate on the back, and connect a battery directly to the starter to spin the engine (also hold open the throttle body with a zip tie or some string or something).

Otherwise, that's a tough call on how much to replace with the motor out. If you're confident the motor is strong then I would replace every maintenance item you can before installing it in the car.

If you're not sure on the condition of the engine then If I were you I would replace just the things that are a total pain in the ass with the motor in the car and the transmission installed - the rear main seal and its housing plate gasket, rear coolant cover gasket, upper main oil pan gasket, and maybe the timing chain guides and their cover plate gaskets (I say maybe because the timing stuff on an m60 isn't likely to be worn at only 80k miles). All the other stuff is pretty easy to replace with the motor in the car, that way you can drive the car with the engine / trans installed to verify its condition before going crazy with the rest of the things.

[bd92]

I am not sure about replacing the timing chain guides either. They aren't really known to be an issue on the m60 engines. If anything, just to add to what the previous poster listed I would say oil lines. They are near impossible to replace with the engine mounted. Or at the very least replace the orings of the oil lines.

[Deanx2009]

I am not sure about replacing the timing chain guides either. They aren't really known to be an issue on the m60 engines. If anything, just to add to what the previous poster listed I would say oil lines. They are near impossible to replace with the engine mounted. Or at the very least replace the orings of the oil lines.

Ohh oil lines...thats a good one. I think based on what both of you have said an inspection of the timing chain guides and replacement of the gaskets would be a good in between. I also read that it was more of an m62 issue. The engine I have now has 240k (b30) and no sounds/suspected timing chain issues....so thats why I'm leaning on the "put it off" mentality..that and cost.

In a few years il have a little more disposable income as well, but right now the whole timing thing would help me keep funds for important things like yard work...



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[Deanx2009]

Sounds like a fun project! I definitely understand the concern of throwing a bunch of parts / time / money at refreshing things in the event the motor turns out to be a dud and needs to be warrantied.

I would leak down test and compression test all the cylinders before installing the engine in the car. I'm not sure if it's technically feasible to compression test with the motor on a stand, but I would guess you could bolt up the starter, install a flywheel or automatic trans flex plate on the back, and connect a battery directly to the starter to spin the engine (also hold open the throttle body with a zip tie or some string or something).

Otherwise, that's a tough call on how much to replace with the motor out. If you're confident the motor is strong then I would replace every maintenance item you can before installing it in the car.

If you're not sure on the condition of the engine then If I were you I would replace just the things that are a total pain in the ass with the motor in the car and the transmission installed - the rear main seal and its housing plate gasket, rear coolant cover gasket, upper main oil pan gasket, and maybe the timing chain guides and their cover plate gaskets (I say maybe because the timing stuff on an m60 isn't likely to be worn at only 80k miles). All the other stuff is pretty easy to replace with the motor in the car, that way you can drive the car with the engine / trans installed to verify its condition before going crazy with the rest of the things.

Yep...I'd hate to spend the money and be forced to either remove the parts or do it again with money wasted.

I think I'm going to take both of your points and items to replace and add it to my list. I'm definitely in the "if it's an absolute pain in the butt, change it" mentality with any little bits. I'm also going to send off thr valve covers for a wash and maybe fresh coat of paint.


Il post photos as things come along.

As far as testing compression/leak down, I suppose I could fix the starter to it if I can make a rig. I have a mig welder and could probably mount some kind of bracket. The engine actually has some of the leftover automatic trans bits on it so I may be able to make something work .

Thank you for the timely response! Helps me plan.

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[ross1]

Hey all.

I have a "guaranteed" m60b40 engine from a local dismantler and they claim is has 80k miles or less.

Engine compression is tested and "good" from the company. If the engine has any issues I can warranty and exchange it.

I have the engine out and I'm about to put it on the engine stand to do some work, but I don't think it makes sense to do a full rebuild due to the warranty.

I was thinking of doing all valve cover gaskets, valley pan and gasket, water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, rear main seal, oil pan gaskets and crank/cam shaft sensors while it was out-now debating doing a full timing chain kit refresh.

With the cost of the tools and timing kit I'm at about 1k ish. Is it worth changing this while the engine is out? Or is the job reasonable enough to do later (if the engine is good with no issues, maybe 2 years and 20k from now?)

It's easy to get carried away with an engine refresh and I'd hate to have a warranty issue and have all those new timing parts in the engine. Maybe just change the chain guides?

Without the timing stuff itl be around 900 for all the parts listed including new coolant hoses and random intake bits.


Excited to start!



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$%$ing junkyards!
If they know the miles then state specifically and document them, same with compression. The only thing guaranteed is they lie. At least they didn't claim to have "dyno tested" it.
It would be quite remarkable for a near 30 year old car in poor enough condition to be sent to the wreckers to have "80k miles or less".
Don't spend a dime on this greasy lump until you can confirm or deny its health. You can do a cold compression test which is less useful than when an engine is warm in situ but better than nothing. Remove the valve covers, oil pan and look at the internals.
IF you choose to use the engine do all the gaskets, at least inspect the timing chain guides and be damn sure the oil pump isn't falling off as is common on M60s.
Good luck.

[E34 Lives]

Since you have a warranty, and sounds like low mileage car (confirm by vin number history) you can skip timing chain guides and just do the tensioner and take a peak at guides when you have valve cover off also check oil pan for plastic, the M60B40 engine guides should be the straight pieces with center sprocket instead of the horseshoe guide, and does not have the high failure rate of the horseshoe guide design in the M60B40TU versions. I have 208K miles on original guides and still going strong, just recently changed the tensioner.

I would upgrade to all silicone coolant hoses (CA Tune) with new radiator and fan clutch, and you should have great cooling system. I would change out the transmission coolant hoses while I am in there to complete all the coolant hoses. Maybe inspect the steering box and pump since engine is out.

Do a compression test to confirm soundness of engine, these engines are pretty bullet proof. Everything else can be done when needed.

[moroza]

With that kind of mileage, I wouldn't bother with any chain components except guides (being plastic, they wear with age as well as use), just reseal everything except the headgaskets.

[Deanx2009]

With that kind of mileage, I wouldn't bother with any chain components except guides (being plastic, they wear with age as well as use), just reseal everything except the headgaskets.

Alright I got a look inside.

When I was checking the chain guides even they didn't see notched or worn in any way. The engine so far seems super clean...

I haven't taken off the timing cover and done all of the gaskets yet but I am finally working on the engine.

Realized it was from a manual and has the flywheel still attached...I get to buy a new torx tool to remove it before putting it on the stand now.



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[consti2tion]

That looks extremely clean not a lot of varnish, it probably is a lower mileage unit. Especially being in California with the smog testing, possible that it didn't pass smog and ended up in the junk yard.

Edit: Oops just saw your other thread.

[Deanx2009]

It's all done! Next is a chip! Did it all myself in a few days. Few lessons learned. No check engine lights, awesome performance. Super happy!!

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[moroza]