StephenVA.....it must have been you, Mr. car detailer extraordinaire

[StephenVA]

^ Ha ha

[SW530]

I think they make some womanly products that do the same exact thing with your face too, hate to see what that pulls out.

You got that backwards.. I'd hate to see what's left..

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Stephen, free tomorrow, I’ll givum you a call in the am and reset them new struts into your wagon if your schedule works.

[KeysCoupe]

Looks good! Definitely better than the ones that were on there when you got the car. That orange, is that the same orange that Mclaren uses on there cars?o


Yep, 3M adhesive remover is the bomb! Got two of those cans myself. It will not damage the paint. One thing about pulling vinyl and leaving adhesive on the surface. If you overheat the vinyl, depending on the brand, it will leave the adhesive on the surface. The trick is to just warm it just enough to pull it easily off and clean.

Stephen, you have the new struts? Let me know when you want to do it, I still need to swap out your clown nose mirror dippydooda with this one with the sensor too.

In my dreams! The stuff on my bumper has shrunk/split into 1/2” x 1” blocks with adhesive between. There is no way to peel it off at this stage, plus it leaves 100% of the glue. I’ve stripped this product before where it wasn’t near as old, and it came up as you describe. This is the worst case I have ever seen.
-Donny

[SW530]

In my dreams! The stuff on my bumper has shrunk/split into 1/2” x 1” blocks with adhesive between. There is no way to peel it off at this stage, plus it leaves 100% of the glue. I’ve stripped this product before where it wasn’t near as old, and it came up as you describe. This is the worst case I have ever seen.
-Donny

You should give it a try. I've been using the 3m Adhesive Remover is great stuff, been using it for 25 or more years. Recently when doing the paint correction on my E39 I discovered a large number of small sap spots.. appears someone had parked it under the wrong type of tree during the wrong time of year. I tried all kinds of products and none of them worked. 3-4 different types of sap remover, tar remover, nail polish remover.. nothing worked without a good measure of elbow grease and I feared all that abrasion on the paint surface was going to destory the paint. I'd run out of this stuff after a bunch of years, so ordered a new can. When it arrived I put some one a microfiber and the sap literally wiped off, first swipe. While I was at it I removed a couple parking decals from the rear window and a few other issues.. really works well.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

On crusty baked on crap, soak the stuff with the remover, have a soaked rag sit over it and let it soften it up, sometimes, it takes some patience, a bit of common sense, and then rub it off. Another thing I’ve done, when it comes to crusty baked on crap, high speed eraser wheel, then clean the area off with the 3M adhesive remover. I have never had stupid neglected crap like that beat me.

[SW530]

Careful with the eraser wheel on plastics/polymers. It can eat it's way right into it and it's not pretty. Made that mistake once. Use a really light touch and don't stay on it long enough to heat it up. DO a little, let it cool, do a little more sort of thing. Really, that's what makes the 3m product so good.. it just works.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

You’re not supposed to use the eraser on anything but painted/unpainted metal.

[SW530]

[QUOTE=BimmrMeUpSnotty;30815121]You’re not supposed to use the eraser on anything but painted/unpainted metal.[/QUOTE
I bought my first one to remove decals from glass but once I had it I found other uses. Of course I destroyed a piece of molding that had part of a "Clinton 1996" bumper sticker on it, so maybe.. just maybe.. I turned it up to high speed and pushed down a bit too hard. Just saying..

FYI - Jim, are you going to Ceramic coat your car when finished? I've only had mine a short time but man I love the stuff so far. I was worried that it would be inferior to a freshly waxed surface or I couldn't touch it up throughout it's useful service life.. and while the latter remains to be seen the former isn't an issue. But what I'm getting it is yesterday I finished refinishing a fancy burl walnut stock in a beautiful satin.. I kept finding excuses not to give it back to the owner because I liked looking at it so much.. So he calls, he's actually going to use this on a guided hunt and now he asking about going with a protective coating! I cringed. After some thought I gave him three choices. Polyurethane and I'd never work on his stuff again or I'd move the chassis to a fiberglass stock I already have for the duration of the hunt, or we could try something new.. a ceramic coating. He ended up choosing the ceramic coating.. because I pushed for that.

Anyway, ran a tack rag over it, and then laid on two coats and immediately right in front of my eyes it went from a awesome satin to an incredible gloss that looked 12 inches deep. Totally changed the character of the wood and the wood grain. I wasn't sure what it would do for wood, but having sanded to 800g for the satin and then going back over it with 200g, it just laid on and leveled right before my eyes, not like my E39 where it took a few days. Its an incredibly thin coating, according to some research both coats are probably less than 1 mil. But it looks so deep. This morning I sprayed water all over it.. let it sit for an hour, anmd it wiped right off with microfiber. Damn it's good looking. But in a different way. If you have any doubts about what it does to a car's painted surface, apply some to wood and all your questions will be answered. I just hope it sticks. Also gave him a stock sock so the reflection doesn't scare his game away.. And before any asked, he wouldn't let me take a picture.. or rather use the pictures I took.

[JimLev]

At this point I’m so backed up with other projects (hotrod, vanos rebuilds, 540 front struts, rear ball joints, and house stuff) I don’t have a clue when I’ll finish clay baring the 540.