Window problems with double glazing and door seals

[Legoman]

Went for a drive and a passenger lowered one of the rear windows. Afterwards it would refuse to go back up again. No power seemingly. Didn't even try or look like wanting to go back up. Questions:

1. When this happens and you're on the road and you have no tools beyond what's in the bootlid toolbox, what's the emergency procedure for manually forcing closed windows that won't close? In older cars there was a plug you removed from the inner door trim, inserted a crank handle and wound the window back up. This does not appear to be an option on E32.

2. Both my rear door windows have broken/cut rear window exterior seal edges. They are double glazed windows, so the seals are double glazed width to suit as well. Of course as the windows go up the edge of the glass always grabs the cut edge on the way up and folds the rest of the seal edge inwards and crushes it inside the window jamb. I have tried everything I know to try and glue the seal edges to the frame, but nothing gets them out of the way of the closing glass and they are always crushed with a window close. The only way I can get the windows closed without crushing the seals is to insert a laminated sheet of paper between the glass and the seal edge as the glass goes up for the seal to sit against so it isn't grabbed by the closing glass. When the window is closed, I pull the sandwiched sheet of laminated paper out and the broken seal sits flush, but this is impractical to do every single time someone lowers a window, so it effectively means my rear windows can never be lowered. What is the solution to damaged and distorted double glazed window seals? When I last looked, they were a long time NLA. Has there been any aftermarket solution to this problem since then?

Thanks

[shogun]

There is no way like in older cars for emergency window lift with a tool, only for the sunroof there is a tool is the tool box in trunk to manually close the sunroof, see owners manual for instructions.
That the rear window did not go up is probably caused by too high amps needed, there is a internal reversible fuse inside the GM general modules for this.
The relay switches off
-if there is longer than 60 seconds a current of about 36A or
- if longer than 0.3 seconds a current between 36 and 60A, or (overloading)
-if longer than 0.1 seconds, a current greater than 60A flows (short circuit)

To protect the load circuits, TSH / ZV /ZS / FH / SHD from overload, there was installed in addition to that an electronic fuse 30A (reversible). In the GM the voltage drop is measured at the RM, and depending on the voltage drop (current threshold) interrupts the safety relay is the load current.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...problem-solved

The switch off values of the 30A fuse will not be reached here (it would just melt when there is a defect in the electronic security). The threshold of this electronic fuse is positioned so that is always switches off automatically before overload of the connected controllers. An automatic restart is only possible after 60 seconds!! But only if these consumers were turned off, or there is no short circuit. Automatic resetting can be made 6 times when terminal 15 is switched on. This lock is released again by switching off the terminal 15.

Ever removed the old hardened grease from the slider rails inside the door?
Changed the plastic sliders for the rails? Sliding piece 51321938884
Silicon spray the rubber parts so that there is not so much friction between the glass and the seals. Also the guide rails inside the door.

Find the correct numbers for the double glazing door seals/Rear Window Guide left and right and search every week with google, sometimes they are available still in the net, maybe new, old stock, used parts. I do not know of a aftermarket solution.

[Sansouci]

There is a YouTube post about broken rollers at the bottom of the window actuators that causes a failure to close. The rollers aren't available separately AFAIK


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