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Thread: quality wheel studs

  1. #26
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    Then you get into shooting and learn that muzzle energy is measured in ft-lbs because ft-lb is actually a unit of energy and lb-ft is a unit of torque. Oh and the weight of projectiles and powder loads is in grains.

  2. #27
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    I had a Prof that said
    " When the dump truck is faster than the speed of light. Check your units."

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScotcH View Post
    Canada is so fucked up:

    deli: grams
    beer: pints
    liquor: oz
    fuel: liters
    speed: km/h
    distance: km (when travelling short distances)
    distance: hours (when travelling longer distances)
    distance: inch/feet (in construction)
    distance: mm (anything smaller than 1/4")
    temp: Celsius (rooms, car gauges)
    temp: Fahrenheit (oven, pool, hot tub)

    So yeah ... 90 ft-lbs is perfectly ok
    That's pretty fucked up.
    ounces = liquid measurement and weight, really gets me.

    I ran 90 feet pounds yesterday, nothing exploded.
    Also, I set a PB, so obviously I'll run 95 next time.

  4. #29
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    What are you doing at 5am on a Sat? We must be twins if you are reading forums at that time of the day.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by olemiss540 View Post
    What are you doing at 5am on a Sat? We must be twins if you are reading forums at that time of the day.
    Reading some of these posts puts me right back to sleep.

  6. #31
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    MSI or core 4 doing great stuff.

    If your stud needs to be that long what about H&R spacers with studs?

    Morehead speedworks May have the the longest MSI stud instock?
    Last edited by Yahweh; 06-28-2022 at 08:43 AM.

  7. #32
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    I check Morehead every once in a while, and the 95mm stud is still out of stock.
    I would likely be fine with the 85mm. It won't capture all of the nut threads, but I measured and it captured about 1.2x the stud diameter.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yahweh View Post
    If your stud needs to be that long what about H&R spacers with studs?
    Just say no to these ... or this will happen (lost a wheel at Tremblant):

    Check out the 8legs Racing page: https://www.facebook.com/8legsRacing/


  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScotcH View Post
    Just say no to these ... or this will happen (lost a wheel at Tremblant):

    Ouch!

  10. #35
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    With the medium length (85.5mm) MSI studs and the 15mm spacer I'm running, I get 14mm of thread capture. I'm good with that.
    I even have a spare set of 85.5's if I can't eventually get 95.5mm's.

  11. #36
    NeilM is offline Member BMW E36 M3 Expert
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScotcH View Post
    Canada is so fucked up:

    deli: grams
    beer: pints
    liquor: oz
    fuel: liters
    speed: km/h
    distance: km (when travelling short distances)
    distance: hours (when travelling longer distances)
    distance: inch/feet (in construction)
    distance: mm (anything smaller than 1/4")
    temp: Celsius (rooms, car gauges)
    temp: Fahrenheit (oven, pool, hot tub)

    So yeah ... 90 ft-lbs is perfectly ok
    You guys are just bilingual, or ambisextrous or something.
    Not that there’s anything wrong with that…

  12. #37
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    I run the Core 4 hubs and press-in studs on the front because I needed a new front hub. I recently swapped the studs. I removed the front caliper and rotor (Brembo brakes) to access the studs but in retrospect I "think" I could have driven them out through the brake duct vent (remove brake duct vent hose) and reinstall them through said brake duct vent.

    Driving the studs out was very easy with several taps of a hammer on each stud. Installation was a breeze using the Lisle Tool stud installer (https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...stud-installer). Place the stud in from the rear, slip the Lisle tool over the stud, hand tighten a lug nut, then carefully run in with an impact wrench until rear of stud is seated. Couldn't be easier.

    One other change I made was swapping to the Core 4 lug nut (https://www.core4motorsports.com/pro...OATED-LUG-NUTS) which has a rotating washer-like lower section to prevent galling. The face of the nut rides fixed against the wheel while you torque the lug nuts. Only the section of the nut that fits the socket rotates when tightening.

    I haven't been on track with the new lug nuts but have a lot of time on the front hubs & studs. So far, so good.

    Feff
    Last edited by Feffman; 07-03-2022 at 07:46 AM.

  13. #38
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    I think some have also redrilled their hubs and used 14mm screw in studs. Obviously it much be done precisely. I think there was a company offering this service as well but cannot recall the name.

  14. #39
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    I run Motorsports Hardware and just change them every two seasons

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by golgo13 View Post
    I run Motorsports Hardware and just change them every two seasons
    Those didn't last that long for me. 1+, ish.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by aeronaut View Post
    Those didn't last that long for me. 1+, ish.
    Interesting. How often are you swapping wheels? Do you torque them down when they are hot?

    If you're hard on them, you might be stuck with more expensive, higher end ones like MSI. I don't know many people that have issues with the common brands though. I have seen failures with common brands, but usually due to either over torquing, torquing while hot or the extreme wear caused in endurance racing.

  17. #42
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    40+ days per year, is what does it for me.

    Never torque when hot, torque to 110 Nm, Usually 1 or so tire changes per weekend.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by aeronaut View Post
    40+ days per year, is what does it for me.

    Never torque when hot, torque to 110 Nm, Usually 1 or so tire changes per weekend.
    That's a lot of events lol

    I guess if you buy the cheaper studs, you will have to up your frequency to changing them annually? You can always just get them for now and keep an eye on the MSI ones for when they come back in stock.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by golgo13 View Post
    That's a lot of events lol

    I guess if you buy the cheaper studs, you will have to up your frequency to changing them annually? You can always just get them for now and keep an eye on the MSI ones for when they come back in stock.
    Bimmerworld had 20% off studs and bolts over the holiday, so I ordered some shit. Extended bolts were only $2/ea, and some replacement front studs. I now have options. I'll remind myself how much of a PITA bolts are, and likely change out BW race studs once a year.

    FYI, one of my buddies just broke an MSI stud right at 2 years (roughly same number of events as me).

  20. #45
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    So what has been the success rate with the 14mm stud conversions given the limited lifespan of 12mm studs?

    https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...Jig_p_265.html

  21. #46
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    That's an interesting kit.

    I'd be sweating while doing the rear hubs.

    A quick look at proof loads for M12 vs M14 of same thread pitch, and it's an improvement of 36-39%.
    Go from a M12 1.5 pitch to a M14 1.25 pitch and it's 49%.

  22. #47
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    RE wheels studs also look interesting.

    https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...ars_p_281.html

  23. #48
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    Spent a bit of time talking to Tom at Core 4. They are cold rolling the stud threads AFTER heat treating to prevent any degradation of the alloy steel. Only thing I can't wrap my head around is the torque Core 4 wants for their studs at 95-105 foot pounds. So I torque once to 80 then go around a second time to 95.

    Feff
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Feffman; 07-08-2022 at 09:09 AM.

  24. #49
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    14mm stock bolts on my F90 are torqued to 105. I have been torquing the stud conversion on that car to the same but it is not a track car. Some of what I read says 14mm studs get torqued to 105 and some says 90. May depend on whether grade is 10.9 or 12.9 and pitch is 1.25 or 1.5.

    Core says it does not recommend the conversion because there is not enough material on the outer edge of the hub. That was in an E90 M3 forum and maybe the E36 differs (mine is stored up on the lift so I can’t look right now).

    https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=25271391

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Feffman View Post
    One other change I made was swapping to the Core 4 lug nut (https://www.core4motorsports.com/pro...OATED-LUG-NUTS) which has a rotating washer-like lower section to prevent galling. The face of the nut rides fixed against the wheel while you torque the lug nuts. Only the section of the nut that fits the socket rotates when tightening.
    Some more info on the new Core4 lug nuts. They are not available yet on their website but I contacted them to purchase a set and heres some details:
    -Unparalleled torque-tension performance and consistency over the lifetime of the lug nut
    -More tension consistency = minimized early fatigue failure of wheel studs
    -USA alloy steel, and manufactured in the USA
    -160,000+ psi tensile strength (35 Rc hardness) for extra durability and longevity.
    -Oversized thread to facilitate faster tightening and minimize galling
    -Large lead-in beveled edge for cross thread proof quick tightening
    -MIL-SPEC high performance cadmium plating

    - - - Updated - - -

    TvT Plot, 90 lbs-ft, Averages.PNG

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