After a hell of a time removing the old FLCAs today I went to install Meyle HDs with the offset Powerflex bushings. It felt as though the changed geometry of the Meyle arms was making it impossible to align the lollipop bracket to the frame.
I've read extremely mixed reviews and claims about the Meyle HD with Offset LCABs on a 96+ M3. Some claim the offset bushing makes for near stock geometry; others say that the added caster will be negligible and mingle; and some claim downright that the caster is so extreme it will cause rubbing. Can anyone clear this up for me?
One post I read suggested turning the offset bushings to the 12 o'clock position to remove any additional caster, but that sounds questionable to me?
Any help/experience with an S52 and this setup would be greatly appreciated!!
Moved to E36 M3 forum
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
The offset FLCABs were introduced by the factory on the E30 M3 to add caster.
The 95 E36 M3 uses the same front control arms and so aped the bushings from the previous gen chassis.
The 96+ arms are a different shape in order to add caster. The factory then reverted to centered FLCABs.
Sell the offset pair and get centered units.
I believe the OPs challenge is that the Meyle HD arms are the non-M LCAs. Which then require offset FCABs to get the right caster. Right?
ermthree, which powerflex FCABs are you using, provide a link please.
Last edited by shogun; 06-13-2022 at 10:09 AM.
Yes, that's right. However I've still seen posts that say it will give too much caster...
These are the PF bushings: https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...shing-Kit.html
Last edited by shogun; 06-13-2022 at 10:10 AM.
Ok, that's the newer PF bushing design for the FCAB, which is much better than their older design.
It's hard to tell from the picture, but those don't look to have excessive offset. The aftermarket FCABs have various offsets, some push the pivot point to nearly the edge, and others not as much. So the various posts you read may all be true; one persons experience will be different from another's because there's no standard offset other than the OEM.
There's really only one way to find out, install and see what happens.
Any extreme castor problems will be multiplied with wide tires or crazy offsets.
Remove the tie rod from the knuckle to give the control arm more freedom to move. Even then it can sometimes be a fight.
Alright cool, thanks to you both. going to reattempt this evening--will report back.
So after some real struggling I managed to get the bushing brackets on by rotating the bushings ever so slightly, about 1/4 inch off the eccentric-to-arm lineup.
The next problem I ran into was the total inability to getting either a pivoting head or crows foot onto the subframe bolt (62 ft/lb) and outer ball joint bolt (48 ft/lb) so had to tighten by hand and am worried that both of these were possibly over torqued.
New Problems
- the offset bushings seem to move however they please within the lollipop brackets, they are now in a completely different orientation to where they were when installed
- about 1/8 inch of the PS Balljoint post is showing below the subframe (see pic), but I think this might just be a low rubber boot as I've jacked it fully beneath the central BJ and it is just lifting the car so seems like its fully seated.
- there's a new dull creaking sound/feeling on braking before the car stops. Unsure if this is the bushings rotating, the over/under torquing, or just the bushings settling in. Any suggestions?
Any suggestions or positive reinforcement greatly appreciated lol.
IMG_3017.jpg
- The offset bushings should not rotate. Can not rotate and maintain alignment. They need to be at the intended offset. Are you *sure* they've moved/rotated after install?
- Torques: I'm sure they're fine. Check them after a few hundred miles and call it done.
- Noises: Poly FCABs usually don't make extra noise, but, PowefFlex and Poly, so all bets are off. lol.
I stopped even considering Powerflex after some huge problems with their older FCAB design.
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