Brake System Questions

[traksion]

@Stephen, I have a Foxwell NT301 which doesn't have that functionality. Is there a software package I could download somewhere to do the ABS stuff?

UPDATE*

I was able to find:

NetworkTool.exe
V6.3 Lite.7z
BMW ISTA-P Loader V4.3.exe
BMW ISTA-P Loader V4.6.exe
BMW ISTA-P Loader V4.8.exe
BMW ISTA-P Loader V4.9.exe
ISTAP Loader V4.7z
Loader V6.1F (Rev1).7z


And a torrent file ISTA-D 4.15.16 that is currently downloading. I've seen around some people using this i'll give it a try, if you have any insight on how to use it, that would be most appreciated!

[StephenVA]

All the BMW tools and the BMW Repair manual (TIS)

Here is a live link to INPA software (Mike's tool suite). It is a single zip file. Download it, unzip it, and run setup. You may need to download and install a free trial client version of MegaSync to get it.

https://mega.nz/#!NOZlgYxZ!eFidFuj6y...ty-FLAYuzZIbRY
EasyDIS - EasyDIS-base-44-v1.0.nrg image file
2. GT1 - GT1_v44_programs.iso image file
3. INPA - ediabas-6.4.3-full.nrg image and INPA_2010 5.02 update
4. NCSEXPERT - NCSEXPER(T) and NCS_made_easy_by_REVTOR
Part

[traksion]

That's what i've been using all along. In the e39 CHASSIS section under ABS the options showing are

https://i.postimg.cc/Cxcnm46Q/20181028-115217.jpg

There is no ABS section under BODY

[traksion]

Where can I find the test_lenkwinkel job file or how do I load it into Tool32?

Use the Tool32, test_lenkwinkel job which recalibrates the steering angle sensor AND resets the ABS and all its error lights if any.

[Chedley]

Where can I find the test_lenkwinkel job file or how do I load it into Tool32?

If you download and install “Mike’s easy BMW tools”, you will have INPA and Tool32 and a few other software tools installed.
Start Tool32, then select program file DSC57 for your car , then click on test-lenkwinkel in the job files list….

[traksion]

I spent all this time searching around and installing INSTA from all different sources to finally get it working and the software has no functions for brake bleeding only a info page that explains the procedure... I opened up INPA, actuated the intake/exhaust then activated pump for all 4 sides with the bleeder screw open and hose attached it's all new fluid coming out but still the rear are engaged more than the front. Sticking a screwdriver into the spokes of the rotor I'm able to move the front's with minimal/light effort, doing the same in the rear I have to really put some force into it to get them moving.

Dropped the car after doing the process on all 4 sides and initially it binded but after forcing it with some gas I'm able to get the car moving but I can feel as though the brakes are engaged. Soon as I engage the clutch the car comes to a stop as if i were pushing the brake pedal lightly. I was able to get the lenkwinkel test loaded in Tool32 but when running it I get "EDIABAS Error 19 : IFH-0009: NO RESPONSE FROM CONTROLUNIT"

I'm only able to get INPA/ISTA to get info by plugging into the circular plug under the hood not through the OBD2 port under the driver's dash. Not sure if that makes any difference. I also have a bad wheel speed sensor in the front passenger but I doubt that has anything to do with my rear brake issues. I can try driving to a gravel pit and activating the ABS to see but with the brakes engaged they get red hot if I drive too far away.

All I can think of now is to replace both rear calipers but what's driving me nuts is I never had a brake problem prior to replacing the e-brake shoes in the rear it all started there and I know it's the pistons not retracting because I can see the new paint on the rotors came off and it's all shiny now where in the front that's not the case.

[traksion]

Will this work with an e39 it doesn't list it in the compatibility list but it looks exactly the same and FCP doesn't have any listed for e39

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...oaAu_7EALw_wcB

[Chedley]

Alright....I'd tackle one problem at a time. Trying different solutions may only complicate things on these cars.

1. Brakes : Can you disable or remove the e-brake horse shoes that you recently replaced ? Then check and make sure the whole braking system works well. It seems that the new e-brake is the source of the problems you are experiencing. BTW, you can drive safely without the e-brakes. And even some folks completely get rid of them.

2. For now, forget about INPA , ISTA or whichever other scanners you are trying to install and get to work. (BTW, the IFH-0009 error code you listed above means that INPA is not working on your car because of the wrong connector or the wrong cable, or mis-configured software or...?)

3. Do NOT attempt to activate the ABS with stomping on the brakes on a gravel road or empty hwy. It is unsafe, and actually dangerous, certainly with the state of malfunctioning rear brakes. Plus, that will not in anyway fix the brakes or calipers problem.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Would E30 rear calipers work on an E39….. It looks the same….. lol!!!

All this, I’m still betting on the fact that it is the parking brake that is still not adjusted right.

[traksion]

I'll remove the e-brake shoes tomorrow and confirm.

[StephenVA]

Old systems found in early 528 1997, 1998-2000 models have their own unique brake ABS systems. NOT the 2/2000 - 6/2003 model years. Hyper sensitive to brake bleed outs and faulty sensor readings. Check to make sure your wheel sensors are reading pulse from each speed sensors. Make sure the wiring is not cut pinched broken at the body to hub quick connectors. (these are the things that make you go mad at some point).

A rear caliper that does not retract can only point to one of two issues:
Frozen caliper piston (dirt, rust, etc)
Line pressure from the ABS/master to the caliper. suggestion

Engine off: Release the bleed screw at each rear caliper. Just crack it open for a sec
Engine on: Brakes applied
turn off engine and recheck

Pressure released when the bleed screw is opened? EACH Wheel now turns normally?

By the way, is there any brake fluid loss that is unexplained? Wet spots at any wheel?

[traksion]

Stephen,
Mine has a production date of 1998/09. I do have a faulty wheel speed sensor front right it's toast. I ordered a replacement but they sent me one that doesn't fit.

Chedley,
I just got around to removing the e-brake components and I can confirm 100% it's not the e-brakes (BimmrMeUpSnotty my installation was fine. =D ).
To remove the calipers from the disk/retaining bracket I had to grab a small pry bar and mjolnir and give it a good couple thwaks for them to come off they were on there tight to the point the 20 feet or so I've driven on the new pads had flakage (see img). So it's got to be the calipers just hit their last mark when I did the servicing of the e-brake parts and now their toast. But the pistons looked fine, and I cleaned everything so still I find it strange.

BTW I'm on a 5 speed manual so even though Florida is flat e-brakes come in handy I'll re-install after I get some rebuilt calipers for the rear. That's all i can think of at this point.

https://www.carparts.com/details/BMW...YFRC11194.html
https://www.carparts.com/details/BMW...YFRC11193.html
Anyone know these guys/recommend any place to order them?

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Well, I’m still glad that you did that, taking the things apart, that is, at least now, you, and all of us, all now know, but really, all you had to do was pull the caliper off, and if the damn parking brake was the culprit, the rotors would have had braking action going on. It’s just weird that they were fine, and you do the e-brakes, and suddenly you have this issue. But sorry I doubted your e-brake adjustment. It’s just that, all the years, and all the brakes I’ve done, I have never seen an issue like this.

[traksion]

Well, I’m still glad that you did that, taking the things apart, that is, at least now, you, and all of us, all now know, but really, all you had to do was pull the caliper off, and if the damn parking brake was the culprit, the rotors would have had braking action going on. It’s just weird that they were fine, and you do the e-brakes, and suddenly you have this issue. But sorry I doubted your e-brake adjustment. It’s just that, all the years, and all the brakes I’ve done, I have never seen an issue like this.

I agree 100% its quite strange. My concern now is I replace the rear calipers with rebuild ones and i'm still having the problem because it's something else. All i can think of now is it's either that or the master or brake booster? Front seems to be working fine though.

[dtw]

I agree 100% its quite strange. My concern now is I replace the rear calipers with rebuild ones and i'm still having the problem because it's something else. All i can think of now is it's either that or the master or brake booster? Front seems to be working fine though.

I had a 32V 928 that was locking up a rear caliper. It would slowly pressurize that one caliper until it dragged enough to overheat the engine. Other calipers? Totally fine. Recently rebuilt system, brand new hoses, no stuck pistons or bad seals. Threw a new master cylinder into it...nothing. Finally put a booster in it, problem solved. We could not explain it but it worked. For giggles I put the old suspect master cylinder back on - yep. Good to go.

That being said, I keep going back to the fact that this issue popped up after you serviced the rear brakes. These symptoms are classic flex hose failure. If you had borderline hoses, you may have pushed them past failure when you disturbed the calipers. If you do not have any service history on the brake hoses, replace them before doing anything else. Do not replace just the rears. Replace all 6 flex hoses on the system - 1 at each corner and 2 behind the ABS distribution block.

Check the basics before going off deep end rebuilding calipers and going through ABS test protocols etc. Saw a guy on the other forum who got a low oil pressure warning. He replaced the main and rod bearings, plus a bunch of other work. Issue not fixed. Ended up being an electrical fault. He never verified oil pressure using a mechanical gauge before tearing entire engine apart. I was speechless. Basics.

If you have already done this, sorry. I did re-scan the thread to check and did not see any mention.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

For some reason, I was under the assumption that all 6 brake lines were already replaced. If a brake line has failed, the piston in that lines caliper will not retract after applying the brakes. Both rear calipers are sticking? The two short lines up against the firewall, above the catalytic converters do get cooked quite a bit, they end up dry rotting early in life, especially if they are a no name brand manufacturer. The Goodridge braided steel lines I got, those two short hoses come wrapped in fiberglass insulation for that very reason. It would help to fabricate a heat shield for those two hoses, think aluminum, or carbon fiber. In your case, maybe those two hoses, are the culprit if they have failed.

[traksion]

Are we talking about No. 14 on this diagram?
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=34_0940

There's also No. 12 on this diagram, but it seems it can be either the 1st or the 2nd not both?
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=34_0538

Also if it was a hose issue, wouldn't the pressure bleeder have dropped over time during the work? It stayed steady at 15/20psi for an extended amount of time.

[traksion]

I found the hoses and know which ones you guys are talking about now.
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...ake-lines-kit/

Those looked fine but I'll buy that set and rebuilt rear calipers and just swap all that out. If it's something beyond that I'm gonna drive the car off a cliff.

[dtw]

I found the hoses and know which ones you guys are talking about now.
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...ake-lines-kit/

Those looked fine but I'll buy that set and rebuilt rear calipers and just swap all that out. If it's something beyond that I'm gonna drive the car off a cliff.

Brake hoses show no outward signs of failure. The internal lining fails and swells up, blocking the flow of fluid. Your pressure bleeder - or your foot on the pedal - can force fluid out to the caliper pistons no problem. However, when the pressure is removed, the brake hose swells shut internally once more, trapping fluid (and caliper pistons) with nowhere to go.

To your question - if the hose had developed a leak, yes, it would have bled down pressure. In the internal failure scenario I described above, no. Pressure would look just fine on the bleeder.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Brake hoses show no outward signs of failure. The internal lining fails and swells up, blocking the flow of fluid. Your pressure bleeder - or your foot on the pedal - can force fluid out to the caliper pistons no problem. However, when the pressure is removed, the brake hose swells shut internally once more, trapping fluid (and caliper pistons) with nowhere to go.

To your question - if the hose had developed a leak, yes, it would have bled down pressure. In the internal failure scenario I described above, no. Pressure would look just fine on the bleeder.

On that realoem diagram, the #14 hoses are the hoses to the rear calipers. The hoses that to me would be the real suspects are #3, and #4. Those are the hoses that connect the steel lines from the ABS pump to the metal lines to the rear. They basically run down the firewall, and sit stupidly right above, or next to the cats.

[traksion]

Well fellas after waiting for backordered hoses and receiving 2 passenger side calipers from autozone instead of 1 of each. I finally replaced the hoses, and installed some rebuilt rear calipers on the car and drumroll please!!!!
Same freaking problem, rears lock up. The outside pistons of the rebuilt ones actually looked worse than my originals but regardless problem persists. At this point all that's left is the master cylinder and the brake booster right?

I'm really hoping its just the front passenger side wheel speed senor that's causing the problem, mine was shot, the replacement i ordered from ecstuning is the wrong kind so waiting on the new one to arrive, plugging that in and hoping for the best but aside from that I'm out of ideas.

Any feedback, suggestions, opinions, advice welcome!

[traksion]

I have a 1999 528i e39.

My rear disc breaks lock up and won't release to the point I have to really force on the clutch to get the car moving back into my driveway.

List of things i've done.
1 replaced the rear e-brake shoes and all associated hardware
-- then I started having the rear discs locking up issue
2 removed the e-brake assembly entirely to rule it out
-- still same issue
3 rebuilt the rear & front calipers
-- still same issue
4 replaced the rear calipers with rebuilt ones
4a replaced the rear hoses that go from hard lines to rear brake calipers
-- still same issue

Every time i've messed with the calipers i've bled the brakes to ensure no air in the system.
I also used INPA to open & close the valves

I have a faulty front passenger wheel speed sensor that i've ordered a replacement for and once that's replaced if the issue persists I have no clue what else to do.
The only items left are the brake booster and master cylinder but the front disc brakes work just fine and don't lock up.

[Chedley]

I would suggest the e-brake set up cable between the lever in the cabin and the rear shoes.
Did you check it, replace it, and made sure it is connected and screwed in right ? Maybe you need to replace ; it is a PITA to remove and install.

When I had a similar problem. that was the culprit. I'd advise you NOT to drive the car until you fix it.
It can be literally dangerous if it locks on you while speeding on a highway.

A temporary solution would be to remove it or cut it off with the rear shoes fully open and released. The car will drive fine and safe, but then, you will have no emergency manual brake if needed.

[crdiscoverer]

I just had an issue with one front brakes, sort of the opposite as it was clamping on the rotor slower than the others. It turned out to be a partially blocked ABS module valve/solenoid. May be worth also checking your ABS if you've already exhausted all other alternatives.

[Chedley]

I would think you have 2 inter-acting issues:
-- the bad wheel speed sensor that effectively messes up or disables the ABS.
-- air in the ABS lines and/or brake lines that has not been properly bled out.

So, I would proceed as follows:
-- -Get and install the right oem speed sensor.
-- Install all the other hardware: ABS, lines, master-cylinder, calipers, pads, rotors....etc..and close the bleed screws.
-- Bleed the air out of the ABS lines : use INPA and activate all the valves on all wheels
-- Bleed the air out of the brake lines, and refill master cylinder. No INPA here. You can use a power bleeder if you want. Although the manual one-man-method works just fine.
-- Run Tool32, test-lenwinkel job to reset all the error codes and trifecta lights.
--Test. and tell us how it works.