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Thread: Center Support Bearing Torn Out

  1. #1
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    Question Center Support Bearing Torn Out

    I've seemed to really make a mess of things down here, and I need to rectify and replace. Any ideas?
    unnamed.jpg

  2. #2
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    oh my ... that takes skill. congrats.

    first thing is to clean the area. and stop drill the cracks you see. find the end of the crack and put a tiny drill bit through the end of the crack to stop the possibility of the crack running under the new metal you need to put in there. the exhaust shop/imbicile you have weld this most likely will not do this step.


    i would not trust a piece of sheet metal tacked in here at all. but a piece of 1/4inch and maybe 3/16th depending on the bolt size here. (believe 13mm?) should be able to have 4 threads + engaged with a threaded hole placed in the piece of metal you plan on welding in will be fine.


    drill tap a hole in a piece of metal. then draw out the shape you see in your pic on your plate centered on the hole you drilled and cut it out 1/4inch over size, you want to basically match the shape of the entire exposed lower section of in your pic. then test fit, your part wont fit at first.. over size then grind to shape

    you then should be able to bolt it up a new center bearing to locate the part. and have a welder just simply tack up the part you made with no stupidity involved. i personally would do both sides. but this will work with just one side and maybe some washers stacked on the opposite side if things wont bolt up flush. not an ideal solution but this method will be cheap, get the job done and any monkey can do it for you. all they have to do is run a over head bead. its not to big of a deal if they do not weld the existing sheat metal as loon as its stop drilled and the plate/weld is outboard of the dammaged area.



    i would not want your amateur hour welder to remove any existing metal to butt weld your plate in. i apologize but 99% of metal workers especially in the body work field are ungodly bad. this industry tolerates and unbelievable amount of stupidity.

    look at the e36 rtab pocket reinforcement to try and replicate concepts.

  3. #3
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    So I was thinking about it and please correct me if I'm wrong, but could I not dremel an opening in the back slide the metal in tack it both in the back and the opening in the bottom and attach the CSB to that?

  4. #4
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    Reminds me that I want to properly torque my rtab pocket bolts to spec after a shop used a 3/8 impact to tighten a while back.
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
    Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfwainscott View Post
    So I was thinking about it and please correct me if I'm wrong, but could I not dremel an opening in the back slide the metal in tack it both in the back and the opening in the bottom and attach the CSB to that?

    can you weld? your asking questions? remember the consiquences of failure.

    dont.


    i quoted you the best solution to outsource the welding. if you can weld then this comes into your skills. ill be dead honest with you i can do this with a 5/32 7018 stick or a tight clearance requiring me to drill a filler rod hole into a tig torch one handed overhead with camera link to my weld.

    all repair work should involve material conservation... if it aint broke dont fix it. you need nothing but a place to locate a bolt. make something to locate the bolt shove it in hole... weld.. just remember if you remove metal its gone if you add it you can remove it, especially if you retain the information of the original setup.



    on the side of the road id do what you want to do, on a car you want to keep or consider selling dont.....


    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    Reminds me that I want to properly torque my rtab pocket bolts to spec after a shop used a 3/8 impact to tighten a while back.
    theise are like 50+ ftlbs much mess then a 17mm lug nut , and its an 18mm bolt. and not a 17mm wheel lug bolt. unfortunately you cannot inspect for cracks. they are tack welded in from behind. poorly...
    Last edited by scoobiedoo2029; 05-20-2022 at 11:03 PM.

  6. #6
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    How did this happen?

    For repair: Why not just remove the whole piece or section from a junkyard car and weld it in your car?


    Quote Originally Posted by scoobiedoo2029 View Post
    and stop drill the cracks you see.
    Where do you see cracks?
    Last edited by samy01; 05-21-2022 at 01:08 AM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by samy01 View Post
    Where do you see cracks?


    all tears have starts and stops. i see 1 hard crack at 12 oclock. one point at 9 oclock and the need for a complete cleanup from 9 oclock to 3 oclock. every one of those jagged edges must be smoothed and sorted and chased out to check cracks. that light catch at the lower 7 oclock of the photo is an issue that may be in the photograph but must be inspected. their appears to be a minor seam tear at 9 oclock outboard of the hole leading upwards. that requires inspection (dont drill seams pm me).......

    those cracks can run under the paint and run over time. untill you looking at clean metal or an xray you hjave no idea, especially because these kind of failures tend to be fatigue failures not tear out failures. ex bambi vs godzilla. godzilla might do one thing bambi does 100000 things by pulling 10000 times.
    Last edited by scoobiedoo2029; 05-21-2022 at 01:40 AM.

  8. #8
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    Wow that ripped from the mount thing rather than the whole rubber wearing out and crapping out, what brand was that part??
    [redacted]

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