I know there is too much out there already on this but frankly you can spend hours searching for an easy answer
i want to try with just starting with an amp upgrade for the subwoofer
I built a box per other posts that I will fit into the space,
the other speakers sound ok so I think this is the simplest and easiest upgrade. I will keep the original if anyone ever wants to just put back
There are so many wiring diagrams
just want a simple answer
can I just ‘steal’ inputs from the head unit that attach to the amp?
if so. What wires?
I understand I will need to ground and power to unit
i can easily reroute the sub speakers wire off the amp
thanks trying to keep as simple as possible
This is exactly how I started my stereo upgrade. I grabbed the two pairs of "VL/VR" wires right before the amp, and used Positaps (red ones IIRC). You can then either bring those into an amp as speaker inputs, or covert to RCA. I used a powered line out converter (JL Audio LOC-22) as it gives the ability to up line voltage to 8V, and you can run a frequency track at 75% volume to tune it just to below its clipping point. Don't necessarily need the LOC, but upped voltage gives nice tight bass at low volume levels. I also added a PAC LC-1 between the LOC output and amp input so I had a nice control for the sub. Some amps come with a remote gain controller.
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Last edited by s8ilver; 05-16-2022 at 11:49 AM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Coupe, but same concept.
I don't think the input pairs matter too much as you'll be setting a low pass filter on your amp anyways. We have "V" and "H". I considered H high and V perhaps as "variable" but I can't prove that. Vorderseite is front in German, so that's probably what the V stands for. The outputs to the kick panel low range speakers are "TRV" and "TLV", so the "V" made sense to me as fronts, and the fronts have to have a larger range than the sad rears (or they're identical and the amp sorts it all out). Could probably tap the other two pairs and get the same result. You just need a signal that a sub can reproduce.
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Last edited by s8ilver; 05-16-2022 at 03:58 PM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Best I could decipher....there'd also be no harm to bring all 8 wires into an amp. It'll just have the full signal at that point. When I did stage 2 of my upgrade, I did exactly that: 4 pairs of inputs into a DSP and it sorts what it needs for each output channel range.
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Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Thanks for the advice and information
this is helpful
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