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Car in shop for 10 days.
Previous shops...could not find the vibration/missing issue and no codes were thrown. New shop....number 4 coil issue. Replaced and runs like new.
Some issues with the ignition switch....said something about "R" codes. Didn't pay attention. Anyway...cruise control works, brake light switch works, passenger door mirror tilts and returns as should, few other switches and sensors replaced.
Tech is a solo operator. No help...no employees....one man operation. Only BMW, Jags, Austin Healey...and he is busy. Final bill fee...fair...very fair.
So....first BMW and seems to be running as should.
First BMW. Always had Benz's. Still do. 04 330ci.
Thought BMW exhaust was...quiet...this one seems a bit loud. Not badly. Going to the muffler shop this week and have it looked it. Don't know if the previous owner installed a different system for loudness. Will find out if it's leaking or the system.
Engine. Just started.. a bit vibration or shaking. Not the coils as I removed the cover and did some diagnostics.
Reading on the WEB...majority of helpful posts' say...replace the valvetronic motor and or eccentric sensor. You're the experts! Thoughts?
Probably...end up taking it to a shop....
And.. this is a 330ci...convertible...many sites and parts sites say...E46 or E something. Same thing?
Last edited by benica; 06-01-2022 at 05:23 PM.
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A 2004 330i is an E46. BMW classifies their cars with a chassis ID (E46, E39, E93, F01, etc.). Within the group you have different models - 330i, 525i, 540i, etc. Much like Mercedes does.Originally Posted by benica
You either need different web sites or different friends. The M54 engine does not have valvetronic. It has dual VANOS, which controls the intake and exhaust valve duration, but does not control lift and does not have a motor. Valvetronic has a motor and gear/eccentric shaft assembly and does control valve lift. I have no idea what is meant by an eccentric sensor unless they are referring to part of the valvetronic.
Vibration and shaking - if it's pretty constant you probably have bad motor mounts. Raise the car, crawl under and see if the oil pan is touching the crossmember. The mounts flatten out after a couple of decades.
This car may be in good condition, in your opinion, but it seems to me that the PO neglected a ton of little things. I find the little things the most annoying and I make an effort to fix them. So far you have a bad door lock, a probable bad door latch, possible wiring problems with the trunk lid, a key that may or may not be bad, loud exhaust, engine vibration. All of these are indicative of a PO who neglected the car. These cars require lots of ongoing maintenance. When the little stuff is ignored, how aggressive was the PO in fixing the big stuff? That's the downside of buying these cars. You find out all the stuff the PO neglected/ignored.
I'm not knocking you or the car. If the top is in good shape, the paint and leather in good shape, you're miles ahead. But be warned, you'll need to get familiar with fixing lots of stuff yourself or you'll go bankrupt at the dealer/indy shop getting all the miscellaneous stuff fixed.
Your to-do list should include rehabbing ALL of the cooling system (pump, hoses, expansion tank, radiator, thermostat, below-the-intake coolant pipes) if you don't have proof that they were done in the last few years. Replace motor mounts and transmission mounts. Service the trans. Check the diff fluid. Fix trunk wiring, replace door latch mechanism, fix lock. Make sure you have the correct spark plugs. Verify condition of the intake boots and idle air controller grommet. Verify that the DISA valve is in good condition mechanically, i.e. the diaphragm holds a vacuum and the flapper butterfly isn't broken and hanging by a thread.
As part of this, get a notebook and install BMW Tools, aka PASoft, or INPA. You'll need the adapter cable. All are available on Amazon. If you're bucks up, get a used SnapOn or Autel scan tool. Any of this will be money well spent if you intend to keep your BMW.
Current stable:
2002 525i (Daily Driver)
1994 SN95 Mustang 'Vert (The Bumblebee)
2001 325i Convertible (Beach cruiser project)
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Thank you!! Your help is greatly appreciated.
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Also, go to www.bimrs.org to find a reputable independent shop that specializes in bimmers in your area. You may get lucky.
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Update...sort of.
BMW shop...5 various models inside. Paid for exhaust, front end inspection, motor mounts and pull codes. Exhaust is fine, mounts are great, only one code; P0070..ambient temp sensor issue. Engine shake..misfire..vibration?? Shop tech says...no codes...so coils are fine. Need additional time and more money for further diagnosis. So. No code except the ambient temp issue. I am thinking...bad coil...would throw code. Anyway...back home and thinking...
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Misfires WILL trigger codes. If your ambient temp sensor is missing you'll get a -40 degrees on the dash. If it's working don't worry about it.
Engine shake is not normal. Vibrations you can feel in the seat or at the steering wheel when idling or driving are not normal. You might do a smoke test, just to see, but lean conditions almost always set codes. When they inspected it were you there? Did they show you that the mounts, etc., were good?
Current stable:
2002 525i (Daily Driver)
1994 SN95 Mustang 'Vert (The Bumblebee)
2001 325i Convertible (Beach cruiser project)
Member
Tech took me into the shop and lift. I could see the mounts. Not collapsed and engine far from the frame. Smoke? None at start up nor while driving. Starts fine even after sitting a few days. Smoke test will be done though. Pulled the plastic cover over the coils and checked them by removing each one. Removed each plug as well for visual inspection. No issues. Coils and plugs look fairly new. Shake is not that terrible but noticeable to me. Have 2 SL's and opposite from this car in terms of quiet and no shaking or vibrations. Going to another BMW shop recommended by www.bimrs.org.
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Geez, mirrored issue with exact same model yr engine - still haven’t changed my door lock- PIA but back to where needing to be with cooling system back after 2 summers of Charlotte HEAT! Short commute and no $$$ got me to and fro…
Classic oil leak repaired by dealership going on almost 2 years it’s holding together…. After more years than l will admit maintaining the severe oil leak and leaving my staining mark on any place I parked
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The door lock was a 5 minute fix. Repair kit off of Amazon.
Kit has all the parts except the small pin...used to stop the horseshoe cover from spinning. Lock Smith wanted close to 100 bucks to repair the lock. Many videos available on Utube.
Ambient temp sensor...replaced also...10 minutes and 30 bucks on Amazon.
The vibration/shaking...is...diagnosing and ruling out. 3 different shops...BMW shops.. all disagreed. One says tires. Another said front end parts and another says engine sensors and need further diagnosing.
Tires are new. Not a tire or balance issue. Motor mounts are fune...not compressed.
Anyway...another shop in the AM and see what they say.
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Is it shaking at idle? Or when you drive? Or some other time? Big difference. When driving it could be tires, it could be a bent wheel (I had that problem), it could be worn out suspension.
Current stable:
2002 525i (Daily Driver)
1994 SN95 Mustang 'Vert (The Bumblebee)
2001 325i Convertible (Beach cruiser project)
Member
Shakes at idle. Accelerate...and vibration/shake/shudder.
Engine miss. As mentioned...into the shop.AM..have them sort out all issues....
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