Got this message by email from someone in Australia asking for help. I had the same problem on my IHKA, luckily I had a spare unit and I am using this now, but maybe someone has a repair solution, seems to be a problem:
The IHKA buttons will not stay in ( the 3 on either side - the middle ones are a different mechanism ).
This part is broken . BEHR do not have any spares, salvage part will suffer same issue.
Tried 3D printing with poor results - the print output is very rough.
have you seen this before and fixed? Can the same mechanism for the middle three be adopted to the outer ones?
For info only, more pics IHKA bulb replacement and LED replacement http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan//IHK...KA_lights.html http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/ihka_led/IHKA_LED.html
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
assuming that part may be removed what about building up the worn area with metal epoxy or similar and carefully reprofiling the cam?
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
good idea, metal epoxy might work, I have seen pics of a plastic gear repairs for the wiper pressure motor with that, as enforcement they used metal staples and then reprofiled the cam
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Hi ( after a long break ) - Will try the metal epoxy we used to repair some wrought iron - work well in the situ. Also will try 3d printing again in a Nylon base. If anyone wants the STL file I can send to . Many thanks again
when you have finished the repair, post pics, Andre
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
anyone meanwhile fixed these broken plastic pieces? Any idea welcome. On the German E32 forum someone fixed it, quote: "I have refilled mine with a 2 component filler glue with a dremel tool in shape and it works again like new."
Here a pic from my disassembled part,
Attachment 708845
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I replaced these pieces a few years ago with spares and now I just have it in "AUTO" and never pressed it again.
I'll take the stl file. I work with dental 3D printers. Maybe we can make a copy.
Got flwg email reply from BMWTestPilot: Apologies for not responding earlier. Just been so busy with stuff.
So the original 3d printing was Ok - ABS material but needed to increase some dimensions. Then tried with Nylon - much stronger but printer output was woefull - unuseable.
I have reached out to a professional mob and they will print for $50 AUD, but will be asking that the output is without lumps and bumps.
The SCAD files are from my measuring and coding the part, then export as STL for use in 3d printer.
Please use OPENSCAD to view and adjust if necessary ( some coding is required - please test using the parameters on the left of screen with the SCAD app - change some values and see how it affects CAD rendition ) , then export as STL for use with 3d.
https://openscad.org/downloads.html
Will get onto this week and hopefully receive output by next week. Regards.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
One of my wrenching buddies made a first test 3D print based on the file, we tested it today, needs some changes, had to grind some areas and also have to change the angles a bit, but a good start to find the proper design/size. Will continue over winter to make a fitting one, as we are not in a hurry. Maybe m735is can make proper sized parts and can distribute them to interested members in the US.
Best is you have a spare IHKA unit for testing, if not, maybe someone in the US can send a defective one to m735is
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Here a pic a friend made in 3D, the black part on the right is the original broken one and on the side the 2 sliders, still needs more fine adjustment.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Hi to all and sundry,
SCAD file is the 3d model, STL file is ready for 3d printing. They are accurate as I could get them with the vernier calipers. I'll have some spare printed models if someone can send.
If these are not accessible, please let me know and I can try another file share platform, and if you can access and download please let me know too.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yvfwfbxnm7...ch-1.scad?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ya8ryaiocc...tch-1.stl?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3hzhwzpka6...ld-1.scad?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zic8phstsr...old-1.stl?dl=0
Another possibility, comment copied from the German E32 forum: As the 3D is too complicated for me, I modeled the triangles today with a solid wire and my Dremel and glued it with 2k glue
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Important hint! When removing the IHKA control panel, do not try to pull out the rear window heater switch cover like shown here http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan//IHK...st_removal.jpg
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan//IHK...KA_lights.html
The switch cover has 2 tiny hooks which will often break, then the cover will fall out always, then there is a third hook on that switch which comes from the back part of the switch, that can also break.
Pic of the switch cover showing the 2 hooks below.
The complete switch rear window heater is presently still available, but very costly, and it has to be soldered in, p/n 64111390697 .
Always use a small pic or credit card and unlock at the left side the clamp 64111374250 , pull out left side first, in case you break that, it is available much cheaper than the cpl. switch. See example vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVgSihwVi-Y
In addition, newer IHKA control panels do not have a hole anymore to unlock the clip thru the hole of the switch like this http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan//IHK...s/removal1.jpg
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Hi All and sundry, has anyone been successful in 3D printing these parts that are smooth and useable in the IHKA control unit?
Yes, 2 of my wrenching buddies made test units + tested a long time, modified your original version, they agreed on one final version and material. They made a lot of changes, also enforced the back plate and trapezoidal sliders. Final version here and ready to sell worldwide from end of this month. Per side of the IHKA 1 backplate + 2 trapezoidal plates. In case you want to change both sides, you need 2 sets: http://twrite.org/shogunnew/upgrades...retainers.html Note: that write up is a preliminary version). If someone wants them, contact me by PM
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I'd definitely be interested in these if it will be sold
first limited production run made in Japan will be 40 sets, per IHKA unit side = 1 set = 1 back plate + 2 trapezoidal plates/sliders, for both sides per IHKA unit you would need 2 sets. 1 set = 1 side = $10 including shipping by airmail from Japan, non registered. Can ship out from end of this month, if someone wants, send me a PM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
@BMWTestPilot: total 2 back plates + 4 sliders for 1 x IHKA control panel right and left shipped to Australia
@cirrusblau: total 4 back plates + 8 sliders for 2 x IHKA R+L shipped to Manila
updated link how to install http://twrite.org/shogunnew/upgrades...retainers.html
Be very careful with the small spring, it can be lost easily when it jumps off. As replacement you can use a spring from an ball point pen: part of the instruction: Next step is to remove the compression spring that holds the retainers in place.I suggest you use a very fine flat screwdriver as losing the spring will cause you grief. Use the blade to lift up the end of the spring and push it back off the retainer carriage. The blade should go into the spring so it stays safe. Clearance is very tight so the spring will need to bend to clear the end of the carriage. The small screwdriver is also very useful for reinstalling the spring. Slide the carriage towards the space left by the spring and ease the carriage out. The carriage has 6 retaining tabs as shown.
another hint: Installing the new carriage with plates takes a little care but is fairly simple.The plates tend to fall out when the carriage is turned over to reinstall it. My trick is to keep the carriage vertical, engage the bottom 3 tabs in their slots, then roll the PCB over on top of the carriage to finally engage the top 3 tabs. the carriage and the 2 trapezoidal plates fall easily apart when installing them.
Or use a tiny bit of sticky grease to hold the carriage and the 2 plates together. The small o-ring at the end is basically no longer required, if it is too old, no worry, it is just a kind of damper.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Got feedback from BMWTestPilot: Finally installed IHKA selector/sliders. Installation was very easy. Parts aligned perfectly. Inner trapezoids took a bit of careful placement – turning the unit on it’s side proved the best. Spring was installed once sliders were in position – sliders to the right, spring onto left tab then compress spring and guide it on using a picker and keeping one’s finger over the spring on case it “springs” out and disappears into the ether.
Once installed, test functionality, which is perfect. I did place a small drop of silicone lubricant on the base of slider which operate on the base unit and the back of the trapezoids – NOT on the “hooks” nor the white triangular Selectors at the rear of the buttons.
The sliders are an improved version of the original, in that it has more material around the “hook” which should increase MTBF ( Mean Time Before Failure (if ever)) and the trapezoids are also designed to reduce wear on the “hooks”. Thank you, excellent result.
Last edited by shogun; 01-31-2023 at 08:50 PM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Here's my long overdue report to Shogun on these sliders:
This is how my original sliders look like. It's a bit worn, that's why I don't dare to push these
I took out the spring using a small pick tool. I placed my finger on top of the spring so that it won't fly off, then pushed the slider all the way to the right. There was a bit of a fight taking out the slider because the tabs for the spring are already bumping to each other and the tabs are still aren't free. I had ti lift it up a bit at the end then slide out.
I put silicone paste on the new sliders so it's won't fall off when installing. Transferred the rubber ring also from the old slider to the new one.
The way I installed the new slider is I start with the spring already attached to the tabs and pushed it hard enough for the tabs to go in. I also place my finger on the spring so it won't fly off, because it will and it did for me!
So here it is installed
Overall, an easy job maybe less than 30 mins. I did these on 2 IHKA units (E34 and E32)
@Shogun They arrived and are installed. Happy to have a fully functional IHKA unit again! Thank you!!!
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