Technical Violet’s E36 M3 Track Car

[scoobiedoo2029]

impressive bolt kill, id just redrill and tap for a slightly larger bolt, it wouldnt be a big deal to clearance one hole of the rtab carrier .fighting with that bolt sounds miserable on a table let alone on your back or over head.

your already welding in the reinforcment plates. could just replace that bung. its only lightly welded on the back side

[TechnicalViolet]

Progress

[aeronaut]

Welded strut reinforcements, nicely done!

[olemiss540]

Crap those are some nice welds compared to my shitbox. What welder/wire are you using?

[AJLM34A]

Have you weld up the outer open side of the front sway bar mount to the frame rail? The front, back, and inner can use some stitch welding too.

26E621A6-6812-46F5-90A3-0474E4082264.jpgScreen Shot 2023-03-16 at 11.22.14 AM.jpg

[aeronaut]

Have you weld up the outer open side of the front sway bar mount to the frame rail? The front, back, and inner can use some stitch welding too.

26E621A6-6812-46F5-90A3-0474E4082264.jpgScreen Shot 2023-03-16 at 11.22.14 AM.jpg

Didn't know this was a failure point, I'll inspect my car while engine is out.

[AJLM34A]

Didn't know this was a failure point, I'll inspect my car while engine is out.

That 3/16th" of a gap is filled with seam sealer from the factory. A wire wheel and metal pick remove enough to be able to weld.

[TechnicalViolet]

Crap those are some nice welds compared to my shitbox. What welder/wire are you using?

Its a Yes Welder Mig 205. I wish I could say these are my welds…

My machine, but I had a friend come and help me for the crucial welds. He did say the machine impressed him and required no learning curve.

[TechnicalViolet]

Before I post a main update. Does anyone know what the deal is with these stinking cam adjustment bolts? Shouldn’t they just slide out or is there a retainer that I have just beat into oblivion with my hammer?

[TechnicalViolet]

Bushings…. Im so glad thats over




Turns out a 36 mm axle nut socket matches up to the diff bushings quite well.





Turns out fire is best for the subframe bushings



Observations after disassembly of the rear suspension:

Ball joints and bearings are in great shape, leaving for now since thats easy on car.

I can’t believe how flimsy this camber arm is. Im probably going to replace (funds permitting), or at minimal reinforce.

That midpipe exhaust is heavy and I don’t feel like dealing with that again. Bimmerworld midpipe it is.

Center Support Bearing is getting replaced even though it looks ok.

Both CV boots (inner and outer) are getting replaced.

Diff output shaft seals are getting replaced

Diff cover gasket leaks at one of the top bolts somehow. Probably replacing with RTV since thats always seemed to work. Unless I can find a reason why I need the gasket.

RTAB bushings sucked. I didn’t have the tool but I turns out you can just hit the thing with chisels to bend up the bushing flange and then grind off excess metal. A regular bushing tool works just great after that. (Even with my corroded pocket)



yay midwest



Undecided:

Still deciding on wether to leave the e brake.

Considering sending out the subframe and trailing arm for powdercoat. If not ill probably just paint it with rustoleum. Any suggestions are welcome.

[aeronaut]

Oh ^this post brings back memories.
Those flimsy control arms are amazing huh? Strong under tension and compression, otherwise they feel like paper.

Consider POR15 rather than rustoleum. POR15 is nasty stuff, ventilate!

[bjh102]

That bolt should just come right out as far as I remember.

The bushings are a fun job to do. Replace the camber arms. Do everything you think may need to be replaced while it’s all apart.

I say leave the e brake. What’s your reasoning for wanting to remove it?

[aeronaut]

I yanked all my e-brake stuff a few years ago. Simplicity and weight. Haven't missed it.

[olemiss540]

Yank the ebrake IMO to remove a handle assembly from inside and the associated cables/shoes from out back. POR15 ftw.

[TechnicalViolet]

Sounds like camber arms need to get replaced. Any suggestions on brand?

Also

The axle socket I bought seems to be the wrong size. I guess FCP was incorrect?

Does anyone know the right size?

[TechnicalViolet]

Oh ^this post brings back memories.
Those flimsy control arms are amazing huh? Strong under tension and compression, otherwise they feel like paper.

Consider POR15 rather than rustoleum. POR15 is nasty stuff, ventilate!

Ah yes its sort of the rite of passage for e36 fun.

Quite amazing. Lets hope the trailing arm is doing its job.

Aeronaut, I also need to ask you about your oil accumulator setup. I am thinking on running a similar setup.

[jayjaya29]

The thru bolts on the rear balljoints all seize. You will have to cut the bolt and then press the ball joint out as is (with the shank of the bolt still stuck to the ball joint).

[TechnicalViolet]

The thru bolts on the rear balljoints all seize. You will have to cut the bolt and then press the ball joint out as is (with the shank of the bolt still stuck to the ball joint).

Ah, so my ball joints aren’t good.

[jayjaya29]

Correct. You'll need to replace them. And the salad tongs (lower control arms) as well.

[aeronaut]

Ah yes its sort of the rite of passage for e36 fun.

Quite amazing. Lets hope the trailing arm is doing its job.

Aeronaut, I also need to ask you about your oil accumulator setup. I am thinking on running a similar setup.

My setup was pretty simple. M14 (or so) to 10AN adapter into one of the big plugs on the side of the filter housing (I can get details on which plug hole I used). Sump mounted in cabin. It kept OP's above 35 or so PSI, where without it I would see 20-25 for short times under hard lat G's after hard braking. For a while I just ran the mechanical valve. On after start, off before shutoff. Then I ran a simple electric solenoid valve and a manual switch on the panel.

[TechnicalViolet]

My setup was pretty simple. M14 (or so) to 10AN adapter into one of the big plugs on the side of the filter housing (I can get details on which plug hole I used). Sump mounted in cabin. It kept OP's above 35 or so PSI, where without it I would see 20-25 for short times under hard lat G's after hard braking. For a while I just ran the mechanical valve. On after start, off before shutoff. Then I ran a simple electric solenoid valve and a manual switch on the panel.

Thank you. I sent a few follow up questions but mainly I wanted to ask about fire concerns from brining oil into the cabin.

Hopefully I’ll have time to tackle this after the suspension builds but at my current rate…I’m using a torch too much.

[TechnicalViolet]

Correct. You'll need to replace them. And the salad tongs (lower control arms) as well.

Salad tongs made me lol

Been looking at the power flex camber arms. They just went on sale too.

[TechnicalViolet]

Sounds like camber arms need to get replaced. Any suggestions on brand?

Also

The axle socket I bought seems to be the wrong size. I guess FCP was incorrect?

Does anyone know the right size?

Update, the correct axle nut size for e36 m3 is a 36mm 12 point

[olemiss540]

Need a harbor freight hydraulic press. CAN NOT BEAT it for suspension work.

[aeronaut]

Update, the correct axle nut size for e36 m3 is a 36mm 12 point

Yep! Rear is 36mm/12 pt. Front is 46mm/6pt.