Technical Violet’s E36 M3 Track Car

[aeronaut]

FYI, I did not have good luck with the brass bushings (on the rear calipers). They really beg for an absolutely perfect fit, and the holes they go in are cast not machined.
I don't get much taper on my rear pads at all, but also don't care too much if I do so am not sensitive to it. lol.

Maybe the right answer is to replace the rubber inserts with fresh?
YMMV of course.

[TechnicalViolet]

FYI, I did not have good luck with the brass bushings (on the rear calipers). They really beg for an absolutely perfect fit, and the holes they go in are cast not machined.
I don't get much taper on my rear pads at all, but also don't care too much if I do so am not sensitive to it. lol.

Maybe the right answer is to replace the rubber inserts with fresh?
YMMV of course.

Good to know. I can say that I’m not happy with the current amount of deflection. What pads are you using out of curiosity?

Was it a true mismatch in hole diameter as cast? or was corrosion also a factor? Maybe both

[aeronaut]

On the rear, I tend to run a low mu pad like the PFC08 or one of the Ferodo low mu pads, whatever I can find cheaper.

I have remanufactured calipers back there, with some sort of paint/coating, so that may be complicating the fit. But, the rubber fits fine. Honestly, I can't remember if the brass fittings were too tight or too loose, or even possibly bores in the calipers were not straight. Any of those might cause the pin to bind in the brass fitting. I remember putting a fair amount of time and thought into it, and coming to the conclusion I'll never use them due to binding.
Corrosion wasn't the problem.
I assume the brass fittings do work for some!

[TechnicalViolet]

Realized the photo never posted so here’s the “in process” picture.

[TechnicalViolet]

On the rear, I tend to run a low mu pad like the PFC08 or one of the Ferodo low mu pads, whatever I can find cheaper.

I have remanufactured calipers back there, with some sort of paint/coating, so that may be complicating the fit. But, the rubber fits fine. Honestly, I can't remember if the brass fittings were too tight or too loose, or even possibly bores in the calipers were not straight. Any of those might cause the pin to bind in the brass fitting. I remember putting a fair amount of time and thought into it, and coming to the conclusion I'll never use them due to binding.
Corrosion wasn't the problem.
I assume the brass fittings do work for some!

Well the brass ones are coming today, so I hope they fit. Of course I won’t be able to get under the car for a bit as I’m flying back to Maryland for the weekend to visit family.

[TechnicalViolet]

Well the brass ones are coming today, so I hope they fit. Of course I won’t be able to get under the car for a bit as I’m flying back to Maryland for the weekend to visit family.

To update on the brass bushings and calipers.

Calipers do have machined holes with machined edges for the bushings.

I assumed the brass bushings are supposed to be a close fit, not interference. After cleaning up the rust and running a wire brush, they were still too tight. It ended up taking some light work with the dremel to get them to fit well.

Overall I’m very glad I did it, I noticed my pads already had some taper on them.

[TechnicalViolet]

First real road test after the following items along with cleaning up everything.

New radiator
New fan controller
Sway bar links front and rear
Caliper refurbishment and reseal
Stainless braided brake lines
Caliper bushings
HP+ pads
Front talon rotors
Camber shimmed at the knuckle/strut

Road test went well, any and all suspension clunks are gone. When hot I am occasionally getting some misfiring at 5500 rpms. Not sure if that was a coincidence or just happened to be when I saw it. Been monitoring the cam position sensor, but it just as likely could be in need of a tuneup.

Also having issues communicating with the ABS module. I can use the schwaben scan tool with adapter to read wheel speed data but I can’t check the codes. That will be fun to chase down.

Its nice to see it on the ground again.

[TechnicalViolet]

Been driving around for about 2 weeks after cleaning up the suspension/brakes and have two observations.

Pedal feel could be better.

Very intermittent hesitation under high load.

I’d love to do a road test with data logging but I’m trying to figure out the best way to log the data if I have to be connected to the under hood adapter. Surely someone must know a good way around this.

[TechnicalViolet]

Few other updates

Fresh fluids in the diff and trans. For some reason I only ordered 1qt of diff fluid . So more of that is on the way along with some RBF600 because you gotta have free shipping.

Steering shaft replaced, that should get the steering as tight as possible for now until I go ahead and replace bushing in the lollipop. Old shaft had a TON of slop.

When I was removing the intake boot I noticed the elbow was torn after the MAF and at the ICV. So I’m hoping that was the cause of my occasional hesitation.

Next up is the oil pump nut, planning on dropping the pan this week and securing that.

Also found some racing seats for sale locally which are brand new but getting a good deal on. So my Vader seats have been put up for sale and are getting pulled today or tomorrow.

[TechnicalViolet]

Decided to fabricate my own adapter bracket for the race seats. Mostly happy with the results, still a few tweaks to make.

I plan to finish up the prototype, then I’ll mock it up in cad and share the files.

Planning to change some of the hardware heads from socket to hex head for ease of installation.

Also can’t decide how much carpet should be ripped up.

[TechnicalViolet]

One more update, I found a UUC System U exhaust on scratch and dent sale from ECS. I decided to take the risk and it ended up being just fine. Took a bit longer to mate up the brackets and cut my original rusted bolts off but now I’ll actually be able to hear the exhaust with a helmet on!

[aeronaut]

Looking good!

[TechnicalViolet]

7/12

New sounds out of the tailpipe are glorious, however the sounds out of the VANOS are quite terrifying.

I clearly have a the classic rattle. I was really hoping to last the first season before servicing, but with how bad it sounds I have to replace it now.

I also have a code for a cam position sensor A, but looking at my data logs the sensor is reading. I’m yet to confirm what the cause is but I’m leaning towards issues with the vanos

I purchased the deluxe kit from Race German and a friend is sending me some tools to use. It’s good to know people!

Oh well, once I wrap up the oil pump nut.

[TechnicalViolet]

This is what piece of mind looks like…


This is what pain looks like




Thanks for coming to my TED talk.

[TechnicalViolet]

To review.

Oil pump nut is complete and the oil pan is back on. I broke off two screws on driver side. Those puppy’s were IN there. Even welding a nut on didn’t work, I kept breaking studs until it was flush with the block.

Fortunately the bolts are soft enough to be drilled out so my recommendation is to drill and re tap. If you can get a bottoming tap I highly recommend it because a plug tap will not fully form the bottom threads so reinstall of the hardware will be rough.

For new bolts. Get M6 20mm length yellow zinc 10.9 strength and torque to 9ft lbs. yellow zinc are high strength but also have very good corrosion resistance. You’ll also need 2 65mm and 1 100mm long M6. Fastenal will have them. Don’t forget washers.

Also while I was down there I am replacing a power steering line, motor mounts, and lollipop bushings.

Then I’ll patch that up and attach the VANOs.

[aeronaut]

Looking good!
Oil pan bolts broke? I've only pulled the pan off 4 S5x engines, but none were an issue.

[olemiss540]

What are you going with on motor mounts and lollipops?

[TechnicalViolet]

Looking good!
Oil pan bolts broke? I've only pulled the pan off 4 S5x engines, but none were an issue.

I guess that’s my luck? They aren’t even supposed to be one time use.

The only two bolts that I use a socket wrench on broke off. I could feel them yield immediately and knew I was screwed.

All others were taken off with an electric impact and had no issues.

[TechnicalViolet]

What are you going with on motor mounts and lollipops?

Garagistic 95A for everything. Not sure if I’m going to regret 95A for the lollipop, was teetering between Delrin and 95A.

[TechnicalViolet]

OH! I almost forgot to mention.

3d scanner is here! Purchased a revopoint pop 2 per recommendations from this thread. Thanks guys!

Been reading the instructions and setup on it. My plan is to get some practice and make a few interior scans. I’d like to make some custom door panels. There is a company local to me that makes honeycomb composite and aluminum panels, I want to experiment with that.

[scoobiedoo2029]

OH! I almost forgot to mention.

3d scanner is here! Purchased a revopoint pop 2 per recommendations from this thread. Thanks guys!

Been reading the instructions and setup on it. My plan is to get some practice and make a few interior scans. I’d like to make some custom door panels. There is a company local to me that makes honeycomb composite and aluminum panels, I want to experiment with that.

cool maybe we can bounce some scans and trouble shoot the car related issues to scanning.

i will say a "steady cam" is on my want list ive made some trolleys and rotisseries for the scans ive had to do. my engine stand and a saw horse has been the most helpful tools in scanning.

im curious if scanning with a tablet/phone dosnt work better then a pc.... the lower processing power might result in less tracking loss from slight movements dunno. havent tried yet. seems to react fast with a new school i7/2080ti PC

there is an app from revopoint you have to provide your purchase info for a cd key to merge multiple scans. i haven't use this yet, ive been trying to do single scans as thats all i can expect out of an employee. ive been quite capable without this in my use but for large scale scans like a car i think its necessary.

autodesks free meshmixer app has been effective in converting to solids for 3d printing, and the detail loss hasnt seemed to effect dimensions in its conversion.


the high detail mode of the pop2 seems kinda overkill for most things and large scans can get a bit ridiculous with it turned on. i havent used it in months now.

[TechnicalViolet]

cool maybe we can bounce some scans and trouble shoot the car related issues to scanning.

i will say a "steady cam" is on my want list ive made some trolleys and rotisseries for the scans ive had to do. my engine stand and a saw horse has been the most helpful tools in scanning.

im curious if scanning with a tablet/phone dosnt work better then a pc.... the lower processing power might result in less tracking loss from slight movements dunno. havent tried yet. seems to react fast with a new school i7/2080ti PC

there is an app from revopoint you have to provide your purchase info for a cd key to merge multiple scans. i haven't use this yet, ive been trying to do single scans as thats all i can expect out of an employee. ive been quite capable without this in my use but for large scale scans like a car i think its necessary.

autodesks free meshmixer app has been effective in converting to solids for 3d printing, and the detail loss hasnt seemed to effect dimensions in its conversion.


the high detail mode of the pop2 seems kinda overkill for most things and large scans can get a bit ridiculous with it turned on. i havent used it in months now.

Yes I am hope we can bounce ideas off. The door panel was very difficult to scan, kept losing track. They recommended using marker mode so I planned on trying that, but at this rate I’m going to go through the stickers very fast.

I tried on my phone and laptop. My laptop is an old pos, so I didn’t really get far with that. The phone seemed to do much better, but I still think there’s lots of improvements to be made.

I scanned this two days ago, I’m hoping to design a cover for the back of the shifter here.

[TechnicalViolet]

Few other updates:

Subframe is finally back on, decided to install motor mounts and lollipop bushings so I had to wait for that to slow up. Also replaced a leaking PS line.

Also got a great deal on Facebook marketplace for an NRG quick release and wheel.

Because Racecar obviously


This also through me for a loop, I could not figure out what the nylon dowel was for on my motor mount. After speaking with Garagistic it’s a tooling/manufacturing item and I was told to just remove. Comes out with pliers for strong fingers.

[scoobiedoo2029]

Yes I am hope we can bounce ideas off. The door panel was very difficult to scan, kept losing track. They recommended using marker mode so I planned on trying that, but at this rate I’m going to go through the stickers very fast.

I tried on my phone and laptop. My laptop is an old pos, so I didn’t really get far with that. The phone seemed to do much better, but I still think there’s lots of improvements to be made.

I scanned this two days ago, I’m hoping to design a cover for the back of the shifter here.

each time you get one of those double arficafacts lie what you see on the left side under the window switch you gotta stop and back track to undo or the scan gets screwed, and resting you hand on a rail of some sort to stedy the camera goes along way. ill try the same scan when i can get my car in the garage bay the computer is in.

i also forgot to mention the armature method for scanning: How I scanned the Lotus engine block - 3D scan Revopoint POP2 - YouTube

helps to take small scans, pause it, and reposistion to pick up a already scanned area, make sure no doubling or misalignment happens and then move on to the unscanned area.

[olemiss540]

Part numbers for quick release, adapter, and wheel by chance?