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Easier, I think, to post pictures here. I can't remember what size the housing hole is, I think 14 x 1.5mm, but just pull the plug and measure. I'll send more details via PM.
IMG_20230321_155627.resized.jpg
IMG_20230321_155644.resized.jpg
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Thank you!Originally Posted by aeronaut
Following up with our conversation, I’m trying my best to keep it out of the cockpit.
Finding a pull cable system is a big step in the right direction. Now to see what I can fit
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...le-kit-6-foot/
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You could install in trunk and run AN10 under the car. Long lines do create challenges in charge and discharge time of the sump, and you might need higher pre-load pressure and thus less oil reserve. Etc.
Another option is to install it in the cabin, but box it in. Then for the AN's, use aviation grade pre-fabbed AN, and wrap the hose in fire protection sleeve. That is, use the same thing that's used in engine bays in aircraft for flexible oil lines.
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Axle shafts were quite a pain to remove, but they are out. Did give me time to run an experiment. PB Blaster vs ATF/Acetone (50/50)
I soaked my axles vertically overnight, each in a different mixture. Like so
ATF was completely drained, PB still had a puddle.
My small puller, (above) easily removed the axle soaked in pump juice (atf/acetone). The PB axle took way more effort and a 7 ton puller.
Look at how much more soaked the atf axle is.
Looks like the hub bearings were on their way out. So add those to the list or replaced parts.
If anyone has a good method to remove these while off vehicle. Let me know, don’t think the slide hammer will be too effective without some way to hold the trailing arm.
Oh wait, Olemiss already said I need a shop press. He’s right.
I decided that it would be helpful to weld a nut for the subframe bracket hole. This will ease install and removal now that it’s even harder to get a wrench back there.
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Also wanted to conclude my episode with the fractured RTAB bolt. I think this method works well, but try not to make as big of a hole as I did, I ended up hitting a few gussets and ribs.
Pictures are worth 1000 words here.
Cutting the hole and adding nut, didn’t see a reason to cut the insert down and make welding it harder.
Realizing I’m out of my depth trying to fill a gap this size. That’s why I stopped and called for help.
Patched with 14 gauge steel I had laying around.
📷: @nholmes74
This is a big brain move! I need to do this, I hate fiddling with the damn nut and bolt each time I want to remove the swaybar.
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I’ll be sure to follow up if I end up regretting it! Hopefully not because it seems like it will be quite nice. I hate having to do holdbacks on nuts.This is a big brain move! I need to do this, I hate fiddling with the damn nut and bolt each time I want to remove the swaybar.
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Picked up the rest of the exhaust this weekend
I haven’t been able to find any examples of my exhaust setup. So here’s to hoping I have a unique sound from my oem headers, Bimmerworld midpipe, and UUC Catback.
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Do yourself a favor and perform this on the car.
One other question, if I remove my heat shield, will it cook the ball joint rubber when the rotors get hot?
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I just trimmed my entire dust shield but left a wing on it to protect the ball joint. Probably not even necessary....
Also in case it is helpful: https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...p-presses.html
:-)
- - - Updated - - -
I just trimmed my entire dust shield but left a wing on it to protect the ball joint. Probably not even necessary....
Also in case it is helpful: https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...p-presses.html
:-)
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HF TWENTY TON for the win. It will flex less than the 12 ton, even at a few ton's of pressure.
📷: @nholmes74
I removed my rear heat shields and entire e-brake assembly to install my BBK and never looked back. Haven't had a problem yet.
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Same-ish. No dust shields, no e-brake, no problems.
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Well turns out the buzz box couldn’t handle all ze German steel. Worked great for a while but then I got a nice little POP inside the machine.
Time to buy American I suppose.
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Good , I really don’t feel like putting the brake shoes back on. Haven’t done it in so long I’m not sure I remember.
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I've had pretty good luck with the Chinese made TIG's. I have a Hobart MIG, and it's great.
Honestly, except for the HarborFreight quality of Chinese boxes, the mid-level Chinese boxes seem damn good, except when you want service at your local welder supply.
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Turns out they are sending a free replacement. So I’ll be ok for the short term.
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Should be straightforward, just line the shoes up on the backing plate and shove the "arrow-with-spring" fastener through the hole through the backing plate. Twist 90deg to lock in place once you've found home.
I think it's more okay to leave the rear shields out vs the fronts - a lot more brake heat is happening in front and that can definitely cook ball joints if you're not otherwise covering them. Can always fab little shields to cover the boots.
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I was trying to think of a way to make a heat shielding cover. Didn’t consider fabbing though. May want to look into it.
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Or, not worry about it. Or, install heim joints.
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Straightforward - get some metallic/fiberglass heat-shield conduit and cut a pattern to wrap around the ball joint and/or arm. Poke a few holes and zip-tie to secure.
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This weekend was CV joints and trailing arm ball joints.
Nothing went well.
Couldn’t get one of the CVs back together to articulate smoothly. Turns out there was burrs on the bearing cage.
The ball joints were rusty as hell and trying to find a combination of spacers that worked required more puller kits than I could count.
Still can’t get the bearings out, but I at least got the inner race unstuck from the hub.
Wheel speed sensors won’t budge so I’m probably just leaving them in. They were working when I pulled the rear out. Just gotta be more careful when cleaning.
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I have started just using a dremel on that inner cage. Get it 90% cut through and a smack with the old flatblade.
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Inner race you mean?
That’s what I did, worked beautifully. Especially with an angled cut to give more cut area.
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Exactly. Love your creativity! This car is going to be BULLETPROOF!
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