I’m pretty exhausted to be honest.
You’re exactly right though. I keep telling myself all the pain and suffering today is worth it compared to being stuck sidelined during a track day.
Been there, done that, not a fan.
Few pictures of the subframe and trailing arms refurbished. Going to 3D scan the parts tomorrow before assembly. After I get fresh hardware.
Driveshaft Question…
I’ve heard of people modifying the driveshafts to accept spicer U-joints.
Trying to decide on a reliable route here, I like the idea of being able to change out u joints in the fly instead of it ending a weekend.
Some people seem to go to a one peice, any benefit to that over a modified oem?
Driveshaft, it's the one thing on my car that's stock and I haven't had any problem with. lol. I was recently wondering if I should replace, just because.
I probably won’t do it now since I’ve already overwhelmed myself, but I am taking the driveshaft to a shop to see what it would cost.
I had my factory U-joint replaced with some Ford truck part (rebuildable), weld it in and rebalance. Between that and the overspec'd GS6-53BZ those are the only parts of my car I haven't had to replace or think about in the last 5 years.
Rebuilt driveshaft from driveshaft specialists, ~10 years ago. No problems.
First drive in months!
A few notes. The new dampers feel very nice. I managed to get the camber pretty close to even from side to side. Toe is out, but it was good enough for a validation drive.
I’ll have to get used to all of the new drivetrain noises now that I have stuff bushings everywhere. Most everything sounded typical, except for the axles. Does anyone have experience what the sound difference is between their drive axles when going from rubber to poly subframe and spherical RTABs? If I load up one corner of the car, I can hear a tapping/rattling.
That's why I will do anything I can to buy new axles. Flipping HATE rebuilding/regreasing them have never had any damn luck.
Was it only one corner or did the tapping/rattling happen when you loaded up either corner?
Well this is an embarrassing screw up, turns out it was the stinkin dust shields. I trimmed them for easy access to various components but wanted to retain e brake.
Once I couldn’t the shields were the culprit I ripped them off then dramaticly threw them in the trash.
No more noise, but also no more e brake.
Now back to regularly scheduled coilover setup and wheel alignment.
Anyone know someone selling scales?
Oh, these cars have embarrased the best of 'em.
There was a set of scales in the classified of apexspeed. They hit those forums frequently so I am sure you can nab a set...
Did some updating to my seat brackets. Rivnuts we’re a temporary fix until I confirmed fitment.
Cage nuts plug welded from bottom side. This is a much stronger joint and allows for full contact of the seat bracket to the steel.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...es-scales.html
this post is at the top of my bookmarks menu, its super easy to fabricate.
used current ebay link for 700ish
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17570413125...Bk9SR66q2diIYg
the longacre scales seem nice but not the cheapest thing. but seem to sell used for under a grand frequently. ebay has them frequently its still a great place to look for specific desirable items.
Last edited by scoobiedoo2029; 05-22-2023 at 06:22 PM.
Life’s been busy, but lots of updates.
For track event was a great success. I have a few videos to post and will link soon. Till then here are a few pictures. I was able to get down into the low 1:32s at Grattan Raceways in Belmont, MI. Nice to have a track 20 min away.
Car drove magnificent, the only thing was was unhappy with was my damper position on the front. My helper springs didn’t arrive in time so I ended up having less droop travel than I wanted. Fortunately it didn’t really effect dynamics too much. Except for the jump at Grattan.
Final session of the day, I blew the serpentine belt and limped back to the pits. Before the track day I did notice the belt looks less than ideal, but I figured I could get away with one track day. Turns out I could get 97% of a track day.
With the water pump not running it did get a bit hot, enough to compromise my thermostat gasket/housing. Luckily I have an aluminum one that is ready to go on.
After event..
I ended up closing a big order of jump ropes from my side hustle, so I just went an ordered a proform wireless kit from speedway. Very happy with them, especially since they come with a nice case.
Here’s my results before I leveled the floor. Only value of worth from this could be the total weight.
Haven’t had a chance to remeasure, but I did get to fully corner balance a friends car yesterday.
Love the action shot with the M3 going into the grass! What rear camber are you running? That pic almost looks like you are going a decent bit past square in the rear. Brave man for limping it into the pits without a serpentine belt......
You could definately use an increase. 2 would be absolute minimum, leaning towards 2.5 I would think. What suspension? Still no camber plates?
YES, the magic starts happening at around 2.5, no matter what tire you're running.
EDIT, get some plates or stuff some washers between the strut and hub.
- - - Updated - - -
Oh wait...REAR? Ooops...ignore the plates/washers comment.
Depending on what you have up front, 2 might be fine for the rear.
Last edited by aeronaut; 06-12-2023 at 06:15 PM.
Might as well deliver all the specs
Fortune 510 Coilovers
10 kg/mm front
12kg/mm rear (divorced)
OE Sway Bars
Fortune camber plates
One shim from turner kit
Powerflex rear camber arm
Poly subframe 90A vickers
Delrin FCAB
Spherical RTAB
Camber
3.25 Front
1.75 Rear
Toe (in degrees)
-.5 (out)
.5 (in)
Ride Heights (measured from bottom of side skirt at factory jack holes)
5.75in front
6.875in rear
Last edited by TechnicalViolet; 06-13-2023 at 09:56 AM.
Typically a 1 degree split is the most common on this platform so you could easily justify 2.25 degrees rear camber as a starting point.
First SCCA time trial coming up in two weeks AT Gingerman.
Finally got my ABS working, managed to test out last weekend. Very happy about that, it also seems like I was closer to the threshold than I thought. Got the wrong part from ECS and realized the sensor was way too far from the tone wheel.
I added some rear camber. Now at about 2.2 degrees, thanks to everyone who suggested that.
Now time to remove the passenger seat, re corner balance, re align, and brake change. I also have the option to flip my direzzas. Not sure if there’s benefit though. They have about 35-40% life left.
Still not enough time to do the M50 manifold so I guess I’ll be competing with a bone stock engine in Max 3. At least this time at Gingerman I will have all of the power, last time I still had a vanos sensor issue.
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