How do I remove ignition cylinder in 84 733i (I have no key)

[Elka]

I just found an 84 733i with a 5 speed manual and beautiful red leather in the woods at a local salvage yard. I purchased it but he had not key. A locksmith told me that if I bring him the cylinder, he can make a key for it. I have purchased a key blank. I just need to get the cylinder out. It looks like I may have to drill out something so I can pry on a spring loaded locking piece and pry it out. But if so, I don't know where to drill. Any direction or a link to pics would help. Thanks,
James

[Hit Man X]

Does your have a locking glove box? That would be easier, provided the ignition was never done.

Since it is a US car, BMW may still be able to VIN cut you keys. Buzz your local dealer or a joint like Blunttech

BUT, before that, I would drop the driver's knee bolster, lower cover under column, and unplug the ignition swtich. Jump the big red to big green to big purple. This effectively 'hot wires' the car by turning on all circuits. See if the thing even runs and how well, even if on Bill Cosby in a Can (aka ether).

[Elka]

Thanks Hit Man X, that is exactly the wisdom I needed. I'll update with my progress!

[Elka]

Update: pulled ignition switch and turned it with a screwdriver. All power seats functioned, radio had lots of static in the volume knob, lights worked, starter engaged but engine wouldn't turn over. Likely seized from sitting. Will pour oil in cylinders, wait, and try to turn it over with a breaker bar on crank pulley. Thanks again Hitman X!

[Hit Man X]

Good move on powering up everything first.

If the starter is indeed seized, be sure to use the B35 unit. I think it is the 441X, I made a thread and will find it for you. Verify that silly yellow/black wire is on the solenoid as it likes to fall off with age. You can also jump it from under the hood at the diag port, Pin 11 to 14 or just do it right at the starter. Removal of the older style will test your patience. I advise to remove that intake plenum support for more room.

Radio static on knob, well probably just a dirty pot. Deoxit works great and may take a few squirts, do the same with the fader knob.

My fav cylinder lube is from Stabil, it is their fogging oil. https://www.goldeagle.com/product/sta-bil-fogging-oil/

I cannot recall what size the crank is on the M30. 30mm or 36mm sound in the area. You can buy a fan clutch removal tool set for about $20, you will need it.

Post pics!

[Elka]

Thanks Hit Man X. I will try the Stabil fogging oil. The crank pulley nut is a 36mm. I have tried to spin it with a 3/4" breaker bar with no luck. After fogging, I will try to spin again. The starter sounded like it was engaging and trying to spin the engine, but the engine just wouldn't allow it. I have some Deoxit. I will apply to the radio knobs. I may try to push the car and pop the clutch to see if it breaks the engine free. I will send a pic of the shift boot as soon as I figure out how, lol. I'll update as soon as I make some progress. Thanks again!
James

[Hit Man X]

Ah, so the engine is locked.

Well if trash, I can ask around for a B34. A pal of mine has a few long blocks, could probably grab one cheap enough. Maybe you could find one local too.

[Elka]

Just wanted to update and give some observations about how to remove an ignition lock cylinder from an 1984 733i.
1. With the lower clamshell removed from the column remove left and right turn and bright light stalks with 4 philips screws.
2. With drill and I used a 27/64" cobolt bit (a 3/8" would likely be fine), drill out the larger shear bolt that sitting in a recessed hole that fastens a small rectangular piece of steel up against the bottom of lock cylinder (opposite end from bolt has a pin that goes up into cylinder to hold lock cylinder in the top clamshell.
IMG_9960.jpg
3. With the head of that shear bolt ground off, the piece of rectangular steel with pin on topside will fall down, and the remaining part of the shear bolt can be unscrewed. Keep it to help find a regular bolt of same dimensions with hex head to be used to reassemble the rectangular steel piece after lock cylinder is reinserted (after having a locksmith make a key for it).
4. Remove a tiny set screw at the base of the lock cylinder to allow the electrical portion of the ignition switch to be removed from the lock cylinder (the set screw must come all the way out to remove the cylinder in a later step).
5. There is a small "button" on the bottom of the lock cylinder that must be pushed up as the lock cylinder is slid out.
Here is a pic
IMG_9959.jpg

That's it. I ended up removing the entire top clamshell of the steering column to figure all this out. Believe me, you do not want to do this. It involves 4 more shear bolts needing to be ground off and many more bolts removed.
Take the cylinder to a good locksmith who can make a key based on the tumblers present.
Oh, and the door lock cylinders and glove box cylinders have fewer sets of tumblers than the ignition, so the ignition key works for the door and glove box, but if you had keys made using the door lock cylinders or glovebox cylinders, they would not work for the ignition switch.
So if you have lost your key or never had one, this is the procedure to get one made.
You can get OE key blanks many places for about $45-$50 and generic blanks for about $10. I would start with a generic one and then once you get a good key that works well, purchase an OE key blank and have it cut using the generic one as the master.
As for the engine, I have sprayed fogger oil in the cylinders but it still won't turn. May spray more in.
I removed the rear brake calipers. The right one was frozen and the left was fine. The front left was frozen, and I haven't removed the front right.
The clutch master and slave were frozen, but I have new ones on the way.
Little by little, I hope to get this car back on the road. If you have questions, just ask.