Hi all,
This is going to sound like a noob question... How do I remove the connector on the left side of the amp? I tried to squeeze the tabs on both sides and pull. No movement whatsoever. I'm a bit worried about damaging the connector with a channellock. What is the correct way to remove it?
Alpine-Amp.jpg
Thanks!
Just pinch the two sides and wiggle. First time off will be tight.
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Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Squeeze it together. If it's not working squeeze harder. If that's not working apply some jiggling force
The other one you push the tab in and slide the clip over
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I find that sometimes connectors like that need to be pushed in while squeezing the sides to help the 'latches' disengages and then pulled out.
Thanks for the advises guys! I was able to remove the connector, with a channel lock and a lot of pulling and jiggling.
So, what's the project? I get excited when I see folks removing the factory amp.
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Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
I was installing the GC coilover kit. There seemed to be some hidden rivets all the way in towards the front of the car holding the side carpeted panels. I was trying to pivot the right panel towards the center to access the right side strut mount. The amp and its stand were in the way.
BTW, since we are talking about this... I've seen pictures from other members with panels on both sides removed. How was it done? Here is a picture of what I did. There was barely enough room to access the strut mount with the panel still attached.
RightSideHatch.jpg
The sound proofing would crack with the lightest touch. So I yanked it out for a cleaner look.
Last edited by MPowerZ32; 04-12-2022 at 09:15 PM.
If you remove the panels either side of the oddments box and pop the B pillar trim off (hidden push clip under the height adjuster), you can fully remove the carpeted side panels (there's a single screw behind), but it's still fiddly. I didn't touch the amp to do my rear suspension but I could see how that could help if you don't want to fully remove the carpeted pieces.
I only learned this as my car had unsightly holes cut for the suspension, but then reverse mounts were used anyways. I had spare panels on hand so had to get them all the way out.
Unless my eyes are deceiving me, the bolt is backwards on the left side of your amp. The threaded bit is in the amp arm, so bolt attaches from below (head down) to catch the threads and sandwich the amp to the amp rack. Probably not a huge deal, but don't want you to hear a clanking sound when you have it all back together and hit a bump.
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Last edited by s8ilver; 04-13-2022 at 01:05 AM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
There's the tab (after you remove the seat belt), and forgot you also have to remove the plastic trim just above the carpeted panels as well. It's a horrible jigsaw puzzle with no box to look at to take it apart. Somehow I didn't break anything.
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Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Thanks for the excellent tips on the trim removal! You are right. It looks like my bolt for the amp arm is upside down. Great catch! I need to fix this. My OCD just kicked in.
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