The eml light had come on a day ago and won't go off but the car doesn't act differently it's still the same so I'm really confused as why it is on
is it EML light or CEL light = check engine light, check control CCM ? http://www.e38.org/e32/BMW_pdfs/INST_info.pdf
make a stomp test to see if there are any codes https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...e-pedal-faults
check the battery https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...L-light-SOLVED
also read this long thread http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/636213
Low voltage will set EML only if it drops below 11v for more than 90sec. Low voltage will also cause problems with the IKHA (heater/ac), memory for seats/steering and transmission will go into limp mode. Mismatched tires WILL set EML light if vehicle has traction since it reads all 4 wheel speed sensors and gets an "implausable" reading.
Defective EML control module, capacitors have to be replaced https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...EML+capacitors
Last edited by shogun; 05-12-2022 at 04:25 AM. Reason: added link
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Have searched a bit more for you about this, basically that only happens on US spec. cars, here is another old thread with the same "problem", it comes and goes
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ine-quot-Light
Have you meanwhile tried a stomp test?
Thread: E32 Check Engine Light = EML light? https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ight-EML-light
Try to get a used Peake fault code reader, they are no longer sold new, but the Peake fault code reader is basically the same as the stomp test.
Last edited by shogun; 05-12-2022 at 06:28 AM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I one day went to go start my car and drive it now won't come out of limp mode no matter what I do and I checked codes with the stomp test and it gave me 1222 I did the mafs test they work good and all injectors seem fine I'm not sure what I should look for next and this just happened it wasn't doing it the day before also no blown fuses and battery is good I have recently cleaned injectors and put in new spark plugs did a oil change and air filter change with shoguns performance chips and they work great I'm think about trying O2 sensors next would loves some advice from someone else
you already had similar problems last month, before you installed my chips https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-lose-in-power
I will merge these 2 threads now as this is somehow related.
when you changed spark plugs, did you carefully remove the boots from the spark plugs. Check all 12 ignition wires and especially for cyl. 6 and 12 where the donuts are on.
M30/M70 ignition system data accdg to Bentley
Coil primary, coil code # 2051118335 terminals 1 (-) and 15 (+) resistance 0.50 ohm, Coil primary, coil code # 20510171101 terminals 1 (-) and 15 (+) resistance 0.37 ohm
Coil secondary, coil code # 2051118335 terminals 15 (+) and 4 (ctr. resistance 6.0 kohm, Coil secondary, coil code # 20510171101 terminals 15 (+) and 4 (ctr. resistance 9.0 kohm) ,spark plug ends 5.0+/- 10% kohm, shielded plugs 1.0 +/- 20% kohm, spark plug wires 0 ohm (approx.), rotor 1.1 +/- 10% kohm
M70 firing order: 1-7-5-11-3-9-6-12-2-8-4-10, crankshaft position/rpm sensor: 540+/- 10% ohm
from workshop manual
distributor rotor 1+/-20% kohm, angled/shielded connectors 1+/- 20% kohm, spark plug connectors 5+/- 20% kohm, cylinder identification sender coil resistance at 20 degree C (68F) <1 ohm, pulse sender/crankshaft position sensor coil resistance 540 +/- 10% ohm, Donut/ cylinder identification M70, S70: Resistance at 3-pin connector. Measure plug between pin 1 + 2, ≤1 ohm, insulation resistance between pin 2 + 3: ≥ 10 MOhm, temperature switch for e-box cooling E32 750: switch on at 44 +/- 3 degree C, switch off at 36 +/- 3 degree C.
coolant sensors:
if the coolant and temperature sensors are not connected or bad, then the system will go to pre-set failsave values, which means it always uses data for a cold engine.
Here are the test data which you can test on the DME pins, remove the cap on top of the DME -156 M1.2 connector and use a multimeter, the pins are marked with numbers http://www.europeantransmission.com/...out1988_90.pdf
sensors from fender to middle of the engine: see drawing in ETK http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3...g_system_pipe/
# 8 12621710535 2-POL M14x1,5 , black 5000 Ohm, for temperature gauge sender, spec by Hella: M14x1,5, NTC-Sensor; resistance Ohm: 5000, 544 ; color: black, V: 12.
# 7 temperature sensor water 12621288158 M14X1,5 engine coolant temperature sensor for DME, (20 deg. C, 2500 Ohm.) (White Top)
# 5 temperature sensor water, 13621707366 3-POL-2500-OHM , EML coolant temperature sensor
Best would be if you can find a shop which can read life data which are more in detail than a stomp test.
check the throttle valves again. Last week I had very rough idle and with a smoke test we found out that one throttle valve was stuck a bit open , here the info https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...tle-flap-shaft
code 1222, Lamda control 1: This code is stored when the DME detects excessive deviations in the air-fuel mixture (too rich or too lean) for longer than 10 seconds. Possible causes: Fuel tank ran empty, Incorrect Fuel Pressure, Injector valve defective or coked, Engine Temperature Sensor defective, Secondary air leak, Fuel evaporation control system defective, Air Flow Meter defective and/or the combustion is being disturbed by mechanical failure (Spark plugs, compression, intake/exhaust valves, ...etc.) http://www.e38.org/e32/bmw%20code%20defaut.pdf
I would start check for air leaks
my check list https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...power+ultimate
O2 sensors: you could disconnect the O2 sensor and run the engine to see what happens, then the control system would take a standard value, it will substitute a fixed default value in place of the defective sensor. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ic-1-1-1-3-BMW
BUT, before you disconnect the sensors under the car, mark each plug what belongs to where, some people mix up sensor bank 1 and 2 and connect them wrong.
Last edited by shogun; 05-23-2022 at 03:20 AM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
What do you think I should start with first I can't really drive it anywhere to get it tested by bmw and I was able to get it out of limp mode today after turning it off I went to start it and it would go in limp mode but I was able to get it out of it twice before it wouldn't do it agian no matter what I do it did this since yesterday before that it was fine it makes no sense to me.
check systematically step by step based on my list https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...power+ultimate
If the problem was not there before you changed parts, check the parts you changed and removed for that first.
O2 sensors you can disconnect as described above, when disconnected, DME will substitute a fixed default value in place of the defective sensor. Then check the CPS and donuts.
In case you have a smoke tester, that would also help. To make one DIY here examples https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5l7CXg3nzM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSThZDK3H4U
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOhl4r0GSiE
rough test for false air: recognizable when you take off the oil filler cap while the engine is running. If the characteristic of engine running remains the same, false air could be the problem. If the engine speed varies/changes, then you have no problems with false air, at least from that point of view.
Do you have a spark plug tester? Costs less than 10 $, easy to check each ignition wire and the 2 distributors https://www.amazon.com/Ram-Pro-Inlin...01HU2L1NU?th=1
Simply connect the tester between the spark plug and the plug wire, if spark is being sent, the tester will mirror the spark and light up - Find dirty spark plugs, defective points, bad cables or connections, etc.
throttle valve cleaning and testing http://bmwe32.masscom.net/moswald/75...ies/index.html
switch ignition on and check if both throttle valves are moving in stand-by, engine not on. Then remove the MAF and check if the throttle valve flap is completely closed when engine is off. Last week I found 1 DK which did not move freely and the throttle valve flap always stayed a bit open, causing very rough running, misfire.
Is the wire connection to the MAF sensors o.k.? http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/644209/
remove the vacuum hoses from the fuel pressure regulators and sniff if there is fuel inside, if so, FPR bad, see here testing for a leaking, ruptured, fuel pressure regulator diaphragm http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1265429/
remove both distributors and rotors and inspect them carefully, also the center carbon pin. Recently one of my friends had limp mode on his M70, the rotor and the distributor had hair cracks we found, before he had replaced many other parts, but in the end the problem were these parts http://e32b12.blogspot.com/search/label/Distributor
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UEjHE2istV...1600/rotor.jpg
where in Georgia do you live? Maybe another member lives nearby and can help
Last edited by shogun; 06-01-2022 at 06:58 PM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I live near auburn Georgia
Also the acs light won't turn off I tried holding the button for 10 seconds and long but it won't turn off both when the car is running and when its off and I think the eml light died or something it won't turn on it was working the day before but now won't light up no matter what
I just started when I got back home and now she's just fine I think it has something to do with the heat when it heats up also there is a connecter unhooked that goes from the injectors down I think20220523_170024.jpg
That connector leave unconnected, that is necessary when your car has a 2nd alternator, that is the line from 2nd alternator to cluster and is the exciter line.
In case something is wrong with the ABS/ASC/ASC-T, that is also connected to the EML control unit and could also cause reduction of throttle for safety reasons, the EML system explained http://www.europeantransmission.com/...MW/EML-BMW.pdf
You can check the sensors for ASC.
Also check the 3 temperature sensors in the coolant line at the back of the engine, test values I posted above, often the thin wires break, so besides the ohm of the sensors, check also the wires. There are also 2 temperature sensors for the intake air at the back of the intakes, check if these are connected also. Here you can see one http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/sp...enumIntake.jpg
Also the wire loom to the MAF can break, usually in the bend just before it plugs into the MAF, the old wire loom outer sheath is stone hard after >30 years, if it breaks it cuts into the thin wires in the loom, have found that on several M70.
All test data are also in the Bentley Repair Manual for the E32, I assume you have one, study that. Go step by step and check carefully, never think, that part worked yesterday, it should still work, check it to be sure.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Alright I'll start checking the temp sensors because it only sends it in limp ode when the car is hot so this leads me to beleave that it is something happening with the heat.
Knowledge Base for diagnostics, good info for testing https://autoditex.com/library.html
Automotive Sensors
Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS)
Air Temperature Sensor (ATS)
Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP)
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)
Hall Sensor (HS)
Knock Sensor (KS)
Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
MAF Lab Scope waveforms
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP)
Lambda Sensor (O2 sensor)
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
Ignition Systems
Primary Ignition
Secondary Ignition
and more
not all fits our E32, but useful info
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Thank you for helping some much I truly grateful
Here more data in case you need: pedal position sensor, located above the accelerator pedal for 735 and 750 with EML. Bentley Repair Manual shows the data for testing on page 130-45. EML Pedal Position Sensor Test:
pedal at idle position:
manual transmission 0.34-0.43 VDC
automatic transmission 0.35-0.45 VDC
pedal at full throttle:
manual transmission 3.1-3.3 VDC
automatic transmission 3.7-3.8 VDC
EML connector pedal position test pin: M70 DME 1.2 brown/violet pin 1, M70 DME 1.7 blue/brown pin 20, M30 DME 1.3 blue/brown pin 20, terminal numbers are molded in the EML connector face.
These numbers are very small and may be difficult to read.
set a gap of 3mm / 0.118 in. between accelerator pedal bracket and the idle stop. To check adjustment, peel back rubber boot from EML harness connector (round big plug left side engine bay close to the diagnosis port) and connect digital voltmeter between specified pin in connector and ground.
Low voltage will set EML only if it drops below 11V for more than 90sec. Low voltage will also cause problems with the IKHA (heater/ac), memory for seats/steering and transmission will go into limp mode.
Mismatched tires WILL set EML light if vehicle has traction since it reads all wheel speed sensors and gets an "implausible" reading.
Last edited by shogun; 05-25-2022 at 08:46 PM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
I checked my coolent temp sensors and one was far different from the other two and wasn't reading correctly so I now looking over everything else
Turns out the car is overheating and going into limp mode because of it I checked the temp sensor and it said the car is over 200 f. But the gauge cluster reads in the middle. When I remove the coolint cap it did bubble and does appear the it is over heated. I think my clutch fan is bad aswell, due to it not engaging.
The gauge cluster does not show the real temperature. The cluster chip has pre-set support values depending on the engine type, for example 2 support values between 10 - 55 degree Celsius/DC, 2 between 70 - 100 DC, 1 starting about 115 DC towards the hot area. see page 6 http://www.e38.org/e32/BMW_pdfs/INST_info.pdf
200 F is 93 DC http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/tempgage.htm that is why it is still in the middle. the bubbles can also come from the return line under the coolant cap http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_19.htm and 200 F is almost boiling point.
aux fan test http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_20.htm
visco clutch testing http://www.mwrench.com/Whitepapers/FanClutchtest.pdf aftermarket visco fan clutches are not very expensive
concentrate on the other temp sensors for engine management in the coolant line, the cluster gauge sensor seems to be ok.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
The fan clutch died it won't activate at all and I can stop it with about anything so I'm going to go buy a new one tomorrow and I fixed the high speed on the fans thank you
visco fan clutch you can get a cheap one from aftermarket for less than $50. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...an+clutch,6812
remember how to remove it . For removing the visco clutch fan you normally need a 32mm open wrench as long as possible, and the holder for the pulley. left hand thread. https://www.beisansystems.com/proced..._procedure.htm
electric aux fan: if that does not work, it can be one of the relays or the ballast resistor, temperature sender on the radiator, but I had found some cases including my 750 where it just needed to spray contact cleaner / enhancer into the sockets and the spades of the relays and the cable connector directly at the aux fan, that was just oxidation.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
The high speed relay died but I have tons of spares and how do I hold the pulley from spinning
Bmw 32mm Fan Clutch Nut Wrench Water Pump Holder Removal Tool Kit Viscous Fan https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bmw-32mm-Fa...-/123790818049
HowTo: make you own fan clutch tool and alternatives https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...h-tool-for-M60
My method: http://twrite.org/shogunnew/upgrades&fun/tools.html
I also made a holder out of a steel plate, dimensions in detail here https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002143397466.html
easier holder
https://blog.fcpeuro.com/hubfs/Impor...og_Media/1.png
https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/...t-tool.837487/
http://netisak.lpru.ac.th/bmw_e34_di...clutch_en.html
Last edited by shogun; 05-26-2022 at 12:10 AM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Everything is done finally the only question I have left is can you switch out the plastic trim on the back bumper mine is cracked and broken but I have a new bumper but it's the wrong color
so the engine problems are solved, no more check engine light, limp mode, EML light? What was the problem?
rear bumper: here are all parts of the rear bumper which can be bought separately, not very much http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3...im_panel_rear/
I would try to paint the good bumper to a matching color
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
All lights are gone except the engine light which goes away when I Rev the car but comes back after it idles for a couple of secs but no limp mode no power loss and she runs great
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