Clowning around with boost...

[Z3eattle]

Update.

If anyone wanted to know, a BW EFR 8374 will 'fit' an s52 using a SPA manifold.

Caveats are I'm using an AGP .96 A/R turbine housing w/EWG which will be welded to turbine housing, so I do not know if a regular EFR IWG turbine housing will work with SPA manifold.

I also had to have a fabricator cut/weld 90 degree elbow to compressor housing as close to EFR internal bypass valve as possible, otherwise it would foul against block/manifold. Didn't want to do under subframe charge pipe routing.

Engine mount is Rally Road 4" version

I ended up getting an m50 intake manifold. I intend to contact 22rpd for tuning.

This weekend is finishing engine assembly and putting engine into car. Lots more to do though before she's running.

turbo_fits1.jpgturbo_fits2.jpg

[5mall5nail5]

If not too late I would personally have a fabricator extend the turbo 90 forward more or in such a way where you're not trying to fix a popped silicone coupler right next to the turbo manifold road side.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

If not too late I would personally have a fabricator extend the turbo 90 forward more or in such a way where you're not trying to fix a popped silicone coupler right next to the turbo manifold road side.

or weld on a Vanjen clamp - looks like there could be room there with the right clamp choice.

[Z3eattle]

Thanks 5mall5nail5 and NOTORIOUS VR - I am also planning on fabbing my own sheet metal heat baffle affixed to a few of the head-to-manifold studs that would sit between bottom of spa manifold and top of charge pipe giving a mm or two of air between things, as to try and reduce intake temps pre-intercooler as much as possible... so even less space to work with!

Yep, my original idea was just to use a (2.5") straight silicone coupler from 90 to charge piping. I can envision how this would suck as a boost burst/leak area if it failed.

Was not aware of the Vanjen system... is this fairly reliable boost leak-wise?

[NOTORIOUS VR]

Thanks 5mall5nail5 and NOTORIOUS VR - I am also planning on fabbing my own sheet metal heat baffle affixed to a few of the head-to-manifold studs that would sit between bottom of spa manifold and top of charge pipe giving a mm or two of air between things, as to try and reduce intake temps pre-intercooler as much as possible... so even less space to work with!

Yep, my original idea was just to use a (2.5") straight silicone coupler from 90 to charge piping. I can envision how this would suck as a boost burst/leak area if it failed.

Was not aware of the Vanjen system... is this fairly reliable boost leak-wise?

Absolutely, the key is to make sure you don't warp the flanges when welding them, otherwise they seal perfectly and allow for movement as well.

There are a few systems, Wiggins, Vibrant, AlphaLoc all work on the same principal with different locking systems.

[Z3eattle]

It's been a bit - but good progress has been made and it's now just a bunch of wires and hoses before first start up.

Shout out to 22rpd for the fabrication work on everything that is basically attached to/from the turbo - WG dump welded to turbine housing; custom 3" exh pipe to existing SuperSprint mufflers; charge pipe routing retaining AC,.. very little space to fit all of this and very happy with how they put this all together. ECU flashed with their tune as well.

Attachment 723312Attachment 723313Attachment 723314Attachment 723315
Attachment 723316Biggest issue, and I guess a PSA - is that the SPA manifold with BW 8374 using AGP .96 single scroll housing sits really low. Gravity drain is barely possible here... so I will be going scavenge pump route. Ordered the Turbowerx Exa mini. My plan is to plumb this with no drip tank but will use a T fitting routed up to my catch can breather after the turbo drain, but before pump inlet. Then pump outlet to side of oil pan, where I originally planned gravity oil return...

Thoughts?

[pbonsalb]

Which 8374 did you buy? I tried a 1.05 EWG T4 version on an open first gen steed speed manifold, but could not control boost using a Turbosmart Hypergate 45.

[Z3eattle]

Which 8374 did you buy? I tried a 1.05 EWG T4 version on an open first gen steed speed manifold, but could not control boost using a Turbosmart Hypergate 45.

.96 EWG T4 open but with WG dump welded directly off of housing (hypergate 45). My pics did not upload apparently in above post. I'll try again. Hopefully this set up controls boost.

[Z3eattle]

2nd attempt at pics upload.

dump.jpgexh_route.jpgy.jpgplumbing.jpg

[GG///M3]

Sweet. What did you use for heat insulation on the manifold?


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[pbonsalb]

.96 EWG T4 open but with WG dump welded directly off of housing (hypergate 45). My pics did not upload apparently in above post. I'll try again. Hopefully this set up controls boost.

Yes, that will work. Right off the turbine always works. I was worried about the SPA and its little 38mm hole even if you worked it to 40+mm.

[Z3eattle]

Sweet. What did you use for heat insulation on the manifold?


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SPA manifold and turbine housing have both been ceramic coated since pictures were taken. I'm wrapping all hoses with heat sleeve that are in close proximity to mani/turbo.

[Z3eattle]

Yes, that will work. Right off the turbine always works. I was worried about the SPA and its little 38mm hole even if you worked it to 40+mm.

Whew! Glad to hear that. I was attracted to the EFR series due to reputation of quick spool, but the boost control issues seemed iffy. I would have loved to keep the twin scroll these turbos were originally designed for but hope my set up still gives good spool and boost control.... and 500whp hopefully!

But what about scavenge pump set up? I'm hoping I can plumb the Exa mini without a drip tank, but will use a tee that branches to catch can. Catch can is moroso with breather filter, and two -10 ports. One port is connected to exhaust venturi vacuum set up. The other port will be receiving valve cover vapor and the tee'd hose from turbo drain to scavenge pump. My design theory is that the exhaust vacuum will be creating a general negative pressure... i.e, the breather filter will likely be pulling slight vacuum from atmosphere. This will generally help pull crank pressure/vapor from valve cover and vacuum for scavenge tee.

If I do need a drip sump I will need to fab my own for space reasons, and while I've been looking for an excuse to try out my mig welder on stainless, I really just want to finish this build so hoping I can get by without drip sump.

Could I also just try no tee and go turbo drain directly to Exa pump > Exa pump directly to oil pan inlet?