A6D7 JBE: Central-locking relay, selective unlocking

[kentzzs]

Driver side door locking issue with error code A6D7. No driving current to main lock motor (Pin 6 on connector 747) when lock button is pressed. There is current for double lock motor (Pin 8 on connector 747) when lock button is pressed. Unlocking is working for all doors. Passeger door lock works for both lock and unlock.

Already replaced lock actuator, relay on JBE. Problem is not resolved. Is it a software issue or other components issue?

Thanks,

[limes]

Driver side door locking issue with error code A6D7. No driving current to main lock motor (Pin 6 on connector 747) when lock button is pressed. There is current for double lock motor (Pin 8 on connector 747) when lock button is pressed. Unlocking is working for all doors. Passeger door lock works for both lock and unlock.

Already replaced lock actuator, relay on JBE. Problem is not resolved. Is it a software issue or other components issue?

Thanks,

I am now having the same issue with the same fault code A6D7. I haven't checked current to the pin, but the symptoms seem identical.
All other doors lock and unlock correctly using the interior dash lock button. The drivers door will unlock but won't lock using that button. Using the key fob the car will unlock, but it won't lock.
I replaced the driver lock actuator thinking it would be the problem, but no dice. Have checked the fuses listed in the fuse map but none are blown. The 15a ones have not been replaced with 20a ones, but they aren't blown so I suspect no issue there.
Please tell me you found a solution!

[limes]

Ok I feel like an idiot. I had already checked the fuses visually and thought they were ok, but I decided to replace them anyway to be sure. And voila the locking works from the dash button properly.
All 3 locking fuses had been replaced by the prior owner with aftermarket ones, and they all visually looked fine, but I tested them with the resistance setting on a multimeter and compared to brand new good fuses and two tested as faulty. They look like pretty poor quality fuses, so I can only assume that somewhere in them is a break in continuity which isn't obviously visible.
I'm fairly sure it was fuse 72 which was causing the main problem (it's fuse 56 on pre 09.2007), so if you have this problem check and replace all fuses related to central locking! BMW has a TSB out to upgrade fuse 72 and 73 to 20A fuses as well which I have done.
My Key fobs still don't lock the car, so I will keep troubleshooting, but that could just be the key fobs being old...


Also for anyone else who gets the A6D7 code here is a good overview of the electrical system, it was very useful in getting my head around how the locking system works. Also Ista was useful in helping with a diagnosis plan.

[kentzzs]

Ok I feel like an idiot. I had already checked the fuses visually and thought they were ok, but I decided to replace them anyway to be sure. And voila the locking works from the dash button properly.
All 3 locking fuses had been replaced by the prior owner with aftermarket ones, and they all visually looked fine, but I tested them with the resistance setting on a multimeter and compared to brand new good fuses and two tested as faulty. They look like pretty poor quality fuses, so I can only assume that somewhere in them is a break in continuity which isn't obviously visible.
I'm fairly sure it was fuse 72 which was causing the main problem (it's fuse 56 on pre 09.2007), so if you have this problem check and replace all fuses related to central locking! BMW has a TSB out to upgrade fuse 72 and 73 to 20A fuses as well which I have done.
My Key fobs still don't lock the car, so I will keep troubleshooting, but that could just be the key fobs being old...


Also for anyone else who gets the A6D7 code here is a good overview of the electrical system, it was very useful in getting my head around how the locking system works. Also Ista was useful in helping with a diagnosis plan.

Lucky you! Congratulations. Unfortunately, it did not work for me. Fuses are fine even with 20A. I got a used JBE module from a 3 series convertible and try to get a tool to code the VIN in.

[kentzzs]

I finally got the problem resolved by replacing the JBE module. Just coded the VIN in and it works. Meanwhile, I replaced the relays inside the old JBE module and got a working backup part.