Back into an E34 after 13 years... picked up a 94 530iT 5 spd manual.

[Mama Tried]

It's hard for me to see, but think that "s" - first position on long number, might be a "5" which I understand signifies 8-cylinder. Next 3 positions is serial number, 5-position is plant ("0" is Munich?) number 6-8 is production date but as mine is 866 doesn't make sense unless its maybe total production days of the M60/B40 total engine run? Maybe they used SAP factory calendar (ha!)

The second row "s" after displacement/cylinders I think is engine type, with "s" meaning 4-valve design? Everything I read seems to point to the "A" in the production date area being an exchange engine, though. Makes sense with all those nik/aul exchanges maybe? Could be wrong in these areas though - definitive info is elusive

95 540i-6 Engine Code.jpg

[Deanx2009]

It's hard for me to see, but think that "s" - first position on long number, might be a "5" which I understand signifies 8-cylinder. Next 3 positions is serial number, 5-position is plant ("0" is Munich?) number 6-8 is production date but as mine is 866 doesn't make sense unless its maybe total production days of the M60/B40 total engine run? Maybe they used SAP factory calendar (ha!)

The second row "s" after displacement/cylinders I think is engine type, with "s" meaning 4-valve design? Everything I read seems to point to the "A" in the production date area being an exchange engine, though. Makes sense with all those nik/aul exchanges maybe? Could be wrong in these areas though - definitive info is elusive

95 540i-6 Engine Code.jpg

Ohh that very well could be a 5. Il take a look again tomorrow. I'm hoping it's a good 4.0 so I don't have to pull it shortly after swapping it in.

Thanks for the info!

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[Deanx2009]

Good news...I got the sunroof silicone cut and removed and after some wiggling and motivation the sunroof moved a little and then opened! Operates and moves to every position. The only issue is that it moves slowly when the forward sunroof panel moves aft , and when it closes. The rear moves fine. I think the drain holes are clogged and the rails need lubrication. Any idea if any website carries the seal? I also wonder if the motor is tired but didn't have luck finding one of them for a reasonable price.

I also found a window installer who is coming out to remove the windshield so I can fix the issues with the small amount of rust on the a pillar and hopefully allow me to see where the water is leaking on my e34. I took it through the car wash and it was leaking from top right and left which could be the windshield or the sunroof. The sunroof being silicone sealed shut tells me probably not, because it was A LOT of water, but I could be wrong.

Finally, picked up some e38 mpars with continental extreme contacts for a good deal locally. One wheel needs to have the clear coat addressed...some chipping exposing raw aluminum.

Edit: this seems to be the seal. I also found the center seal as well as a felt roll. Is the felt for some area I should address?


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/54128133642/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/54128149662/

Before and after. I think the suspension needs addressing. Little high up front as usual.


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[Mama Tried]

Always thought the M-Pars look great on tourings - they just seem to fit the longer wheelbase perfectly. Nice snag for a great car! Hope the windscreen work goes well. That trim costs like an arm and a leg but cant see using installers aftermarket stuff. Also need work on my sunroof but that headliner switch panel is so crispy been putting it off! Just touch it near the switch and the dent stays there for a week!

Like circuit said, we need a north bay e34 meet-up!

[Deanx2009]

Alright. Started getting the 4.0 prepped for the swap. I have a nice 92 intake manifold with trumpet/velocity stacks and a asc delete intake to go with it. Looks like the engine was from a 95 540i based on some markings I found when cleaning the valve covers. Production date 10/94. No idea on the vin.

I cleaned and painted the valve covers in aluminum paint. I didn't spent too much time to make them perfect so there's definitely some visible roughness from the cracking oem paint, but I just wanted a refresh.

I change the valve cover gaskets, water pump, thermostat, and valley pan today. I cleaned up the valley pan area a little but didn't spend too much time making it perfect as it will be under the Intake manifold.

I soaked the intake manifold in a soap bath for an hour and scrubbed what oil and grime I could out of the intake runners. Made decent progress and found thst one of the trumpets came loose and another was on its way. Bought some epoxy and il glue them in place tomorrow.


Waiting on a long extention t60 to finish removing the flywheel so I can put the engine on the stand and start replacing the oil pan gaskets, oil inlet and outlet hoses, and some other gaskets and orings for the cooling system I have boxed up. I'm also replacing all of the knock sensors as they were all cracked and In pieces anyways. After that, there's not much left to do except pull the 3.0 and swap the accessories over. I'm hoping I can pull the engine in one day, take another day to swap over accessories (possible order more parts if something breaks or needs replacing) and then take one full work day to reinstall engine.

I have a 4.0 dme ready to go, and a 4.0 intake/air box/maf as well. Hopefully this will go smooth!



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