Follow up..................
Dielectric grease is fine for immobile connections like spark plug wire terminals, spade connectors, battery terminals, etc. The grease is indeed non-conductive, but supposedly the connection of the parts displaces the grease and metal-to-metal contact is acheived. Thanks for the correction. I agree there's a better choice than dielectric. But dielectric will still work.
For a sliding connection like the horn contact ring, yes a copper conductive paste is the choice since the paste is more conductive than dielectric grease. But the copper paste too gets displaced. People are asking what's this copper stuff? It's copper anti-seize lubricant like the stuff you would use on bolt threads. So, ultimately the greases are more for protection of the parts- to keep out moisture and whatnot.
I think people need to heed the warnings of those who say don't use WD-40. It's not a bad product when used for it's designed purpose (Water Dispersion). It's been rumored that this stuff was designed for NASA way back when. Maybe the NASA boast is something used in advertising when it first came to market? I dunno. Maybe that's why it got so popular because everybody thinks, "If it's good enough for NASA, hell, it''s gotta be good for what I need it for!!!!"
Use a EP grease that dries upon application. The chain lubes, gun lubes, automotive lubes that are Extreme Pressure greases are your best bet because they have properties that keep them from wearing off the contact surfaces. IMO, white lithium grease is no good in this application. It doesn't have enough staying power and you'll be doing the job again later. The point here is to use a grease that is very durable and won't need constant attention.
For instance, on my 911, the service information constantly recommends using this stuff called Olista Long Life EP. What is it? It's a thick, durable grease that you use in bearings that don't see much attention. In my case, this stuff is supposed to be used for the clutch release fork bearings inside the transmission bell housing. You think i'm going to assume white lithium grease will be ok for this application? Hell no. So I did some research and found a product by Dow Corning called 1292 Long Life Bearing Grease. Bingo! Just what I need. Something that resists moisture and contamination, remains in place, continues to lubricate for many years so I don't have to take my engine out every year to lube some bearings that are drying out too often.
Same goes for the steering shaft bearings in this case. It's a shame the grease chosen by BMW doesn't last long enough. So this time, make sure you use one that does! People here have been kind enough to give the names of grease products we know will work. USE THEM!!! If you can't find it locally? Search/shop on the internet much?????
former X3 and M5 owner
'79 Porsche 911 SC NASA GTS3
'87 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe
'05 Suburban mule
'11 VW Routan family transporter
This was my first take at fixing the squeak, and the CRC White Lithium Grease did fine by me. Granted, it's only been eight days.
Similar to kevinwilly, I was trying to fix two problems at once - the ICV and a squeak. While browsing the available products at my local auto shop, I saw the following on the CRC label:
"Provides long-lasting lubrication with excellent water and heat resistance. Ideal for metal-to-metal lubrication. Use on brake and gear shift mechanisms, steering parts, hinges, latches and many other vehicle uses. Use for break-in lubrication for bearings, etc. Lubricates machines, tools and equipment in the shop, home and farm."
While I'm not planning on any farm applications in the near future, the marketing on the can sold me.
IF/WHEN the squeak comes back, I'll chime back in on the thread and let you know how well it lasted.
BigBilly
1987 M6 Cinnabar Red (I think) / 2014 M5 Alpine White / 1998 328iC - sold
Hey everybody - it's been a while. Glad to see BF.com is still thriving.
Any pointers on care and feeding of an E24 are appreciated.
Here's a dumb question...
Is White Grease the same as white Lithium grease?
I want to lube my hinges and the stuff that was used last time left a white residue, this is clear..
Thanks for the input. I posted this problem on the general maintenence forum did'nt get much help. maybe you should post it there for the other members. I have a 1997 540i and I assume it will work the same. Thanks
Hopefully this did it! Yesterday I tackled my squeak~ Plastic bearing (#2 in diagram) was the main issue for me. It was clicking HARD and made it hard to turn and no return to center. 15 dollars from local dealer and a bottle of penetrating lube...my car feels new again! DAMN SNAP RING~(C-clip) that thing sucks!
So i thoroughly hit the lower bearing with penetrating oil. Turned wheel side to side, drove it, RE lubed it. Same thing.
So I removed the steering wheel/airbag, and lubed the upper bearing as well.
There is STILL a creak, mainly when the wheel is centered, and you turn the wheel left/right an inch or two. Also does it at the 10 oclock position.
With that in mind, do I need to remove that C clip, remove that bearing, and literally get right AT the plastic part, and soak it directly?
1999 M3
Ahh. Appears I had a slightly different squeak than anyone else referenced here. (actually, it was more of an annoying creak). After examining and re-examining, my squeak was neither the upper or lower bearing, but it was the brass ring that is attached to the slip ring. It was rubbing excessivelyy/had too much friction against the plastic of the slipring housing which it is a part of. I actually could have corrected this issue without removing the lower panel or disconnecting the actual airbag connectors. You MUST, however, disconnect the battery for safety reasons. In fact, let me go on record as saying you SHOULD follow the Bentley manual, and fully disconnect the airbag before attempting this.
Regardless, here is a shortcut that I will follow if this comes up again.
I will:
Disconnect the battery.
Loosen both of the airbag Torx30 bolts. (Easier to do/see the torx bolts if you rotate the steering wheel so that one bolt is at the 6 oclock position) .loosen, then rotate so the other torx bolt is at the 6 o clock position..loosen. Place steering wheel back in the normal straight ahead position.
Sitting back in the drivers seat, I could then carefully lift the airbag and set it between the two upper spokes on my 3 spoke M steering wheel. Alternatively, have a helper hold it slightly out of the way without pulling too hard, else the wires will pull loose.
With the airbag out of the way and looking into the center of the steering wheel, I can easily see the brass ring and the plastic housing/slipring housing that it is a part of. The backside of the brass ring rubs against the slipring housing, and after awhile, the entire area becomes dry.
Using a spray lubricant, (I used white lithium) or even a thin finger, one can easily smear the appropriate lubricant around the plastic area where the brass ring contacts. This time I placed the red straw that comes with cans of lubricants just between the ring and plastic backing, and sprayed tiny amounts. If you carefully rotate the steering wheel, you can get to each section of the brass ring/plastic.
Replace airbag, tighten airbag bolts, and squeak is gone.
This was for a 1999 M3 convertible with 3 spoke steering wheel. Cant speak for other E36 steering wheels.
Last edited by lseguy; 04-02-2007 at 09:01 PM.
This worked a treat for me, thanks!
By the way, the squeek/squeel will most probably be coming from the bottom bearing. Mine sounded like it was coming directly out of the back of the steering wheel, but after heavily lubing the bottom bearing, it completely solved the noise.
Many thanks!
After dealing with the intermittent squeek for a year, then couple months ago it started grinding. The worst part was failure to return to center after a turn... most dangerous. It would act up for a day or two. Then disappear for a week or two.
I read through these posts (thanks mucho guys) and decided to lubricate the spindle bearing (the one up by the firewall.) Not having carjacks, I went to a local hobby shop and bought 2ft of small gas line hose for remote control cars. This fit over the existing spray tube for the TriLube. With this setup I was able to drop the hose down along the engine and with one hand point it upward to the bearing. Then hit the spray nozzle with the other hand.
Immediately, all noise/grind disappeared from the steering column when I took it out for a drive. Nice. Thanks, again for the info.
fix works like a charm... but for some reason the white lithium I used smells like the anesthesia before surgery does!
Hi Guys!! great thread!
My 1991 E36 just developed a slight squeak during low speed turns on center.. I just would like to check with you all, on my RHD car, is this where you spray the penetrating grease into? (red arrow)
Yes, basically just cover all of that area with some decent lubricating oil, dont hold back. I used motorcycle chain-lube. Penetrating oil like WD40 etc will cure the squeek for a couple of days until it evaporates. Use a decent lube.
Also, it wouldn't hurt to give that universal joint a good blast while your their imo.
COVER that u-joint with grease (chain lube or white lithium grease) and spray that part with the spring too if you wish. Be liberal, if you miss and get it all over the engine bay, who cares, it's an engine bay - It gets dirty in there.
I have a cosmo(s? I've forgotten now, doesn't matter for this post though) intake, and it's really easy to remove. If you take it off real quick, or push it out of the way, with some reaching and crafty bending of the little 5" spray tube, you can practically reach the lower joint from above. Doing this will probably offer better coverage due to gravity drippage. Spray, turn the steering wheel half a turn, and spray again to really get this stuff covered. I did also spray from underneath the car, and found the straws so much of a pain in the ass to use, I basically just aimed and snipered the joints using the included 5" tube. Worked fine as well, but also made a mess
If you are worried about your garage floor, you may want to lay down a piece of cardboard under where you are spraying, since this stuff will drip - and it is going to drip if you have used enough lube.
I used chain lube on both U-Joints of my steering column and I've have NOT heard the noise since. I did this back in '04 when this thread was first made. Before then for the past 2 years, it happened ALL the time when turning the wheel more than half a rotation in either direction.
I've had my e36 m3 for 14 months now and have had that squeak almost the entire time. I just assumed I would have to remove the wheel and airbag since that's where it sounds like it's coming from. I haven't been adventurous enough to do that but I'll soak the crap out of that lower bearing and pray for rain. Like others on this board, I seem to have the omnipresent can of chain wax, even though my bike for the last five years has been shaft driven. This is why I kept it I suppose!
g
yeah drilling the hole in the column was a great quick fix my column went from soundng like it was locking up like new
Oh thank God I found this thread, I hate that F'king noise!
Thank you
MAGIC- Thank you. My wife's wheel was squeaking/grinding so much I thought I waited too long and had developed a more significant problem. Like so many others though, it was the lower end of the column-spray the hell out of it and it's like new.
03 330i zhp, 97 328i
Just to say thanks for the excellent Writeup and advice... I bought my 318iS about 3 months ago and the squeek came as part of the package I guess. It's on 191000 kms (118000 miles) and I thought it was just some wear over time thing...
Well, I took a look in the engine bay and, since my BMW is South-African (RHD) , there is was. So I grabbed some penetrating oil lubricant and sprayed it and what do you know... all gone...
So just a big thanks to everyone especially Partokloss for his writeup... Now to fix the RTABs... :P
'03 325Ci - Converting to 330Ci
'09 Ford Focus 1.8 Si - Sold.
'97 318iS - Sold, a sad day of my life.
'99 Renault Megane RXE 1.6 16v - R.I.P.
dang i have 158,xxx on my 328is and its starting to squeek every now and then, looks like im guna to be doing this diy this weekend.
OK you made a beliver out of me. I was sure it was in the steering wheel. Lubed the lower bearing while changing starter. The car starts great. The noise is gone. But now the automatic seems to start in 4th, or third if I move the lever back. Fuses are good. Any ideas?
Excellent post and the pics is definitive
Thats column is the main problem...
I greased mine up and gues what NO SQUEAK yayyyyyyyyyy
Squeeky steering wheel. Yep, got that too. Along with airbag lights that wont go out and OBC clock lights that wont come on, Im quickly discovering that many of us suffer from the same problems. Considering I have 134k miles on my car, I guess I should feel lucky its not something nasty. Ive had engines blow out on me at 130k miles in some of my domestic shitboxes, this car runs like a top.
Wicked writeup, I brought my first BMW month ago and it came with this same squeek. .... I'll be under her tomorrow with the spray. Will like to get this fixed before my drive back from Spain next month. Cheers
This worked like a charm. I used a long piece of vinyl tubing that people use for breathing oxygen, and Castrol Chain Wax. Worked beautifully. thanks for the awesome tip and write up. A+!
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