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Thread: Steering wheel squeak FIXED... Writeup w/pics

  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by clumpymold
    Yeah, I've tried white lithium grease, WD-40 and liquid wrench.

    I still have a squeak but it's very minor. Only on slow, low-speed turns. And with the stereo on, I don't notice it at all. Only when I have the radio off (and, unfortunately, that's when I have passengers) can I hear it.
    Give that Tri-flow stuff a shot, it's only a few bucks and might end up fixing your squeak. I used WD-40 and a cheap, off-brand motorcycle chain lube before I tried Tri-flow, neither really worked.

    Quote Originally Posted by Patrokloss
    Tri-flow is great stuff, and not necessarily specific to auto applications. My local hardware stores all carry it. Most bike shops stock it as it makes a great bicycle chain lube. I believe Walmart carries it as well.
    Thanks for the info!

  2. #77
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    An alternative method to jacking up the car/spraying yourself in the face to get to the bottom bearing is to just lube it from the top. I just got some lithium greese and smeared it over the bearing from the top. It's just below the brake booster towards the passenger side against the firewall.

  3. #78
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    Damn, you guys are lucky. Mine squeeked like a pig even after lubing it. I removed the steering wheel, knee panel and the whole steering column. It was under warranty anyway, and I got paid to fix my own car, but things didnt work smoothly and took like 7 hours.

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by maq
    Give that Tri-flow stuff a shot, it's only a few bucks and might end up fixing your squeak. I used WD-40 and a cheap, off-brand motorcycle chain lube before I tried Tri-flow, neither really worked.
    I'll be sure to try that.

    Quote Originally Posted by cstang68
    An alternative method to jacking up the car/spraying yourself in the face to get to the bottom bearing is to just lube it from the top. I just got some lithium greese and smeared it over the bearing from the top. It's just below the brake booster towards the passenger side against the firewall.
    Yeah, I tried that as well. Maybe I should try this Tri-flow stuff?

    2005 Audi (Purchased 07/09) - 2005 Yamaha R6 (Raven) (Purchased 5/06)
    07/97 BMW (Sold 08/09) - 03/01 Audi A4 1.8TMCX (Sold 06/03)

    Please do NOT PM me! Email me: clumpymold@sbcglobal.net

  5. #80
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    I made sure to work the stuff in. It made the steering wheel turn easier and it stopped squeaking when I'm turning it. Now it only squeaks when it centers itself.
    e46 m3, some 740 sport shorts, F30h, LR3 and a 540it

  6. #81
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    My squeak is back. It's not as bad as it used to be, but when it self-centers, it's still pretty annoying. There's also a wobbly feeling to it.



    I suspected the plastic bearing wass worn, so I took the wheel off. Now here's my question. The plastic bearing (#2 in the diagram) on my car is locked in by #3 the back up ring, and #3 is locked in place by the toothed spindle top. The only thing I'm able to remove is the #5 ring. Also, is this #3 ring supposed to be tight in place? Mine is loose, has up and down as well as back and forth play.

    Is this normal? How can I get to the #2 plastic bearing and how can I remove it?

    Thanks in advance!

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by maq
    My squeak is back. It's not as bad as it used to be, but when it self-centers, it's still pretty annoying. There's also a wobbly feeling to it.

    I suspected the plastic bearing wass worn, so I took the wheel off. Now here's my question. The plastic bearing (#2 in the diagram) on my car is locked in by #3 the back up ring, and #3 is locked in place by the toothed spindle top. The only thing I'm able to remove is the #5 ring. Also, is this #3 ring supposed to be tight in place? Mine is loose, has up and down as well as back and forth play.

    Is this normal? How can I get to the #2 plastic bearing and how can I remove it?

    Thanks in advance!
    It's snap ring #4 that's holding the plastic bearing in. Yes, its a PITA to get off. I didn't have the appropriate remover, so I pried it out of it's grove in the spindle with small screwdrivers and then removed it with needle nosed pliers.
    Last edited by lkstaack; 02-16-2006 at 07:47 PM.
    Lars

  8. #83
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    Thanks for the info! I really appreciate it. Was your backup ring (#3) loose? Did it have any play other than rotation?
    Last edited by shogun; 12-02-2020 at 02:19 AM.

  9. #84
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    I believe that the spacer ring was firm against the plastic bearing. Your bearing is probably mis-shaped. Parts of this thread may be useful: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...=1#post5577923
    Last edited by shogun; 12-02-2020 at 02:20 AM.
    Lars

  10. #85
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    I did this today and the squeaking was gone instantly! The steering is definitely a touch smoother too. I hit it from below with white lithium grease and it did the trick. Thanks!

  11. #86
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    In the middle of it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Patrokloss
    Next we'll tackle (2) the upper spindle bearing and (3) the slip ring. You will need:

    - T30 Torx key
    In the middle of doing this fix.

    Step 1 reduced the noise but didn't eliminate it.

    Moving on to step 2.

    Torx key I needed was 27. (my car is a 96 M3)

    Steering wheel came off VERY easily. Will keep you posted with updates.

    mods:|ssk/dssr|pullys|light fly|empeg|cai|bbs RKII|euro rotors w/minitex pads|Kumho MX Ecsta|Stainless Lines|uuc tme|rear strut enforcers|jtd underpanel|rubber chicken|

  12. #87
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    Sweet! Gonna try this....mine since I got it has always had a real high pitched squeak.....finally pin pointed it to the wheel when it's at the 10 o'clock position. Hope this helps....wheel feels fine but the noise sucks!

    And for the next peeps reading the thread....


    WD40 is not a lubricant!!!!!


    Tri-Flow, Chain Lube, Chain Wax should all work. If I can find a spray chain wax I may try that, it drys and does not attract dirt.

    John
    '95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
    AA Euro HFM Stage II (w/21# Injectors & Software) W/Gen III Exhaust - URI Crank Pully - FDM w/3 Row M Coupe Rad - 3.23 LSD - Vogtland Club Spec/Koni SA - UUC Red w/Enforcers - TMS Shims/Rear Camber Bars w/QA1 inners/Sways - VMC F/TMS R End Links - X-Brace - Perf Ultimate/SS Brake Lines - GC Tower Mounts/RTAB Shims - ZKW's w/5000K Hid - Fog Delete - Alpine 9847/Pioneer TS-C130R Kevlar Components/Pioneer PRS-X340/Stealth Box's/Wired Zune 120GB - OE LTW CF Sills/Glove Box Plate - Staggered Black M-Spoke II's w/235/40 (front), 255/40 (Rear) Nitto NT05's - Rolled Fenders!

    ***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209

  13. #88
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    +1

    Worked for me. I can't see it from above and there's no way my hand can get in there to feel, but wasn't too bad from below. I've been a Triflow advocate for 20 years, so that's what I used. However it's not fair to say WD40 is not a lubricant. It obviously is, just a rather thin one that won't last too well.

  14. #89
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    Read the label carefully, WD40 is a displacemant fluid. It displaces water, and is useful for cleaning some things. But it has zero lubrication properties. It has been misused millions of times...catchy label and name I guess....

    John
    '95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
    AA Euro HFM Stage II (w/21# Injectors & Software) W/Gen III Exhaust - URI Crank Pully - FDM w/3 Row M Coupe Rad - 3.23 LSD - Vogtland Club Spec/Koni SA - UUC Red w/Enforcers - TMS Shims/Rear Camber Bars w/QA1 inners/Sways - VMC F/TMS R End Links - X-Brace - Perf Ultimate/SS Brake Lines - GC Tower Mounts/RTAB Shims - ZKW's w/5000K Hid - Fog Delete - Alpine 9847/Pioneer TS-C130R Kevlar Components/Pioneer PRS-X340/Stealth Box's/Wired Zune 120GB - OE LTW CF Sills/Glove Box Plate - Staggered Black M-Spoke II's w/235/40 (front), 255/40 (Rear) Nitto NT05's - Rolled Fenders!

    ***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209

  15. #90
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    is it common to hear something like a spring tensioning and twisting likes its going to break? then an unbearable squeaking loud noise? while the entire time the wheel is stiff and difficult to move?

    WhatWouldKevDo :bigmegatronshifty

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by JETninja
    Read the label carefully, WD40 is a displacemant fluid. It displaces water, and is useful for cleaning some things. But it has zero lubrication properties. It has been misused millions of times...catchy label and name I guess....
    Maybe you should read the label. My can has 5 categories of uses listed, with several examples of each. The uses listed are:
    Lubricates
    Cleans
    Protects
    Penetrates
    Displaces Moisture

    And again, to state "zero lubrication" is silly. All you have to do is feel it or try it on some metal parts and you can feel it lubricates. As I wrote above I agree that it is not a very useful lubricant, but it does lubricate (until it runs/evaporates off).

  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by sendittoryan
    Cool, I am installing an aftermarket steering wheel, and this is exactly what I was looking for!
    Hey whats up man i love thoes wheels you have on that ride what kind and size are they and where can i buy them!!

  18. #93
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    Patrokloss.. just curious.. why your admonition against WD-40?
    ___________________
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    '11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes

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  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul e
    Patrokloss.. just curious.. why your admonition against WD-40?
    Just giving fair warning; my experience with WD-40 has not been so good. As a lubricant it barely seems to work even with repeated applications. I warned against it simply because I don't want people complaining that my writeup doesn't work when in reality it's the product they are using that isn' t working... Just helps eliminate one more variable when you are trying to chase down something as elusive as a random squeak.

    One application of Tri-Flow has lasted me quite a long time. You can try WD-40 at your own risk. YMMV.
    Last edited by Patrokloss; 04-21-2006 at 07:24 PM.

  20. #95
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    I brought some Silicone Lubricant from kragen before I found this thread

    http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=36

    Do you think this will work or should i return it and get some tri-flow?

  21. #96
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    You don't want to have to do this again. It's not really that hard, but airbags are a bitch.Go Get Triflow.
    Last edited by shogun; 12-02-2020 at 02:20 AM.

    mods:|ssk/dssr|pullys|light fly|empeg|cai|bbs RKII|euro rotors w/minitex pads|Kumho MX Ecsta|Stainless Lines|uuc tme|rear strut enforcers|jtd underpanel|rubber chicken|

  22. #97
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    ok i appreciate the reply but does that mean you know about silicone spray? is it not as good? its what i always thought was the best lubricant growing up.

  23. #98
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    ok so I just got back from the shops and i cant find it anywhere,

    I went to:

    Kragen
    Pep Boys
    Napa
    Home Depot

    none of them have heard of it.

    anywhere else i should try?

  24. #99
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    See Post #75 of this thread.
    Last edited by shogun; 12-02-2020 at 02:21 AM.

  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrokloss
    See Post #75 of this thread.
    Yep most if not all bicycle shops have it.

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