Originally Posted by Patrokloss
oops....I didn't even really read through the full write-up before I posted....I just read a couple of replies. Now that I have read it....excellent job
I just installed a three-spoke wheel and I don't have a "squeak". I have this weird plastic moving noise. Anyone else with this? I think I'll have to start a new thread with this.
2005 Audi (Purchased 07/09) - 2005 Yamaha R6 (Raven) (Purchased 5/06)
07/97 BMW (Sold 08/09) - 03/01 Audi A4 1.8TMCX (Sold 06/03)
Please do NOT PM me! Email me: clumpymold@sbcglobal.net
FWIW, I was able to spray the lower/front bearing down from the engine bay. Required a inspection mirror, good lighting, and skinny wrists
The steering shaft exits the firewall just under and to the right of the brake booster. Can't see it from above, but I could see it with an inspection mirror lowered in there.
I dropped a can of triflow down below the intake then popped a small spray straw on with it right above/next to the steering shaft and probably 3" away. Aimed it in the right direction and sprayed while moving the straw around with my other hand. Checked my work with the inspection mirror, and, yep, it was wet.
My squeak is still present, and I'm sure it is in the upper bearing or shim.
Thanks everyone for the info!! I'm going to try the upper bearing soon (maybe tonight?).
My noise was kind of like what you are describing. A hollow, high pitched, plastic sort of sound. I would just try the method in this post nonetheless, because if I had to bet I would say its your lower shaft bearing. I sprayed mine the other day, and the sound is completely gone, not to mention that the steering feels unbelievably smooth and like brand new.Originally Posted by clumpymold
AWESOME
I'm doing the under-car job tomorrow. Mine is worse some times than others. Popping, grinding, spring twanging noises, and the steering feels tighter and will resist returning to center. Sounds exactly like the others have described here. Seems like it is coming from right at the steering wheel, but I will try crawling under the car tomorrow to get this taken care of. I will try chain wax and/or spray lithium grease. Both should last longer than thin liquid lubes.
James Muskopf
RRT Racing
DC Metro's premier BMW service and racing facility
I thought about using lithium grease, but I didn't know whether it would penetrate well enough. For whatever it's worth, the Tri-Flow seems to have worked really well--it's been over 5,000 miles now, the steering still feels like new, and no squeak.Originally Posted by JamesM3M5
Thumbs up for the effort on the writeup. Answers alot of questions to those who don't know where the heck that squeak is coming from!
To those who have used it, i'd recommend using something other than WD-40. That stuff is one of the most misused "lubes" i've ever seen. I myself am guilty in the past of using it for lubricating purposes. WD stands for Water Dispersant. It's not much of a lubricant. Use some other sort of spray lubricant instead of WD-40.
The motorcycle chain lube is a very good recommendation. When dry, it sticks and it is an EP (extreme pressure) formulation. I have this stuff made by Wurth called HHS 2000 which is a spray grease that works really well.
I'm not familiar with the Tri-Flow lube. Who makes it? Sounds like it works good.
Those guys getting the grinding may want to look into replacing the upper plastic bearing. Worn out plastic bearings/bushings can make for a loose feeling (you can make it wobble by shaking it up & down) steering wheel.
Also, be careful using white lithium grease on the contact ring. The plain grease may cause an intermittant electrical connection. It'd be best to use dielectric grease.
former X3 and M5 owner
'79 Porsche 911 SC NASA GTS3
'87 Porsche 911 Carrera Coupe
'05 Suburban mule
'11 VW Routan family transporter
Kevin,
Thanks for the great info! I had no idea the lithium grease could potentially be a problem. I went ahead and edited my initial post with some of that info so that nobody misses it (with credit to you). Hope that's okay. Let me know if you'd like me to alter it in any way.
Regarding the Tri-Flo, I believe it's made by Sherwin-Williams. It's commonly used for bicycle chains, etc, the main idea being that it's a penetrating lubricant that holds up fairly well over time. I'm sure there are lots of good alternatives, but like you I would NOT recommend WD-40.
And the "40", I believe, means 40th attempt.Originally Posted by KTL
2005 Audi (Purchased 07/09) - 2005 Yamaha R6 (Raven) (Purchased 5/06)
07/97 BMW (Sold 08/09) - 03/01 Audi A4 1.8TMCX (Sold 06/03)
Please do NOT PM me! Email me: clumpymold@sbcglobal.net
Awesome writeup.
Originally Posted by KTL
Dielectric grease is an insulating grease, which limits the electrical conductivity. You need to use the opposite, which is a copper based grease. CRC makes a copper based grease. The reason is that the electrical connection between the horn/airbag relies on a rotating pice of metal (slip ring). You need to maintain this connection by using a copper based grease...not Dielectric grease (which would insulate it from conducting).
'03 E46 M3 SMG Silver Gray
///Performance: AFE stage II intake, Magnaflow cat-back ///Interior: Silver CF Royal style paddles ///Suspension: Eibach pro-kit
I checked the TIS and this is correct. Copper based grease it is! Thanks.Originally Posted by hamanncheese
I mistakingly placed dielectric grease on my slipring (3 spoke wheel) when I should have used a copper based grease. This is before I found out what exactly a dielectric grease was. I hope the dielectric grease doesn't mess things up. I check for continuity with my multimeter, making sure the horn works. and it does...let's hope the airbag works also!
'03 E46 M3 SMG Silver Gray
///Performance: AFE stage II intake, Magnaflow cat-back ///Interior: Silver CF Royal style paddles ///Suspension: Eibach pro-kit
So would white lithium grease be okay then?
Last edited by shogun; 12-02-2020 at 02:14 AM.
2005 Audi (Purchased 07/09) - 2005 Yamaha R6 (Raven) (Purchased 5/06)
07/97 BMW (Sold 08/09) - 03/01 Audi A4 1.8TMCX (Sold 06/03)
Please do NOT PM me! Email me: clumpymold@sbcglobal.net
I have been doing the lower bearing lube using lithium grease about once a month as preventative maintenance, and have perfected the under-hood process. It's so easy now, I keep a can of lithium grease in the trunk and do it at the gas station while filling the tank!
As noted before, the bearing is just left of the brake booster, down low. You can actually see the compression spring if you get your head up close to the windshield and towards the center of the car.
My trick is using an 18" piece of insulation from 12-gauge solid wire, like what is used in wiring a house. The insulation is a perfect fit over the straw for the lithium grease and is way flexible. Just snake it down next to the brake booster, aim it towards the bearing and blast away.
I keep a good coat of lithium grease on the spring/bearing and my steering has been perfect ever since.
P.S. To the guys from Cow-Potty in SLO...I grew up in SLO, lived Los Osos, my Dad and sister are Alumni, my Mom worked there. Of course that was in the '70s (except for my little sister who is a recent graduate...) since I live in Wisconsin now the 'small world' thing is killer! Go Mustangs!
Last edited by 6Shooter; 04-22-2005 at 06:53 PM.
I used the drilling method and it worked perfect!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!
No jacking, rigging, or cralwing under your car!
How??
Get a drill and a 3/16" bit and drill a pin hole in the steering shaft just above where it meets the fire-wall (on the INSIDE under your steering wheel). You don't have to drill very deep. Just through the first layer. Think of it as a hollow pipe that holds a shaft. You only have to drill through the shaft's housing.
NOW LUBE IT!...I used motor cycle chain lube...this is the best suff for the job hands down! it's designed to stay put and resit water, mud, heat... and...just know it the Shittt! It's also the best for your door hinges, trunk hinge, hood claspe, door catches, and clutch spring.
Anyway, take whatever your lube prefferece is and use the little red staw and stick it in the hole and squirt for about 10 secs and turn your wheel and reapeat about 2 or three times...your DONE! pat your self on the back.
Before I did this, my was wheel binding and grinding and poping...just making all sort of noises...it sounded like it was coming from the air bag area (slip ring) WRONG! Lubing the lower bearing fixed it 100%
Any pictures of this "hole" you had to drill? I don't want to drill in the wrong place.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Last edited by shogun; 12-02-2020 at 02:15 AM.
2005 Audi (Purchased 07/09) - 2005 Yamaha R6 (Raven) (Purchased 5/06)
07/97 BMW (Sold 08/09) - 03/01 Audi A4 1.8TMCX (Sold 06/03)
Please do NOT PM me! Email me: clumpymold@sbcglobal.net
I know you probably can't take a picture of the area you need to completely saturate, but I'm just curious of what actually this area looks like. I'm going to do this next week, so any help would be appreciated.
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Could someone take a pic under the car of where this piece is for me? Im sure it would help out a lot of guys like myself.
Any help on finding it would be excelent! Thanks
Getting a camera up in there isn't easy. I tried taking a picture for the initial post and pretty much gave up.
Jack up the car, and find the steering rack. On the driver side of the steering rack, just below the steering wheel area, is a U-joint like in the schematic I posted on the first page. It angles up and back toward the firewall and connects to the steering spindle assembly, which goes through the firewall/steering column and attaches to the steering wheel.
If all that sounds like Greek to you, just figure there is a bar with one end that attaches to the back of the steering wheel while the other end goes down through the dash into the engine bay. Crawl underneath the car and look for the spot where that bar would theoretically come out. That's your target.
The squeaky bearing is just below the firewall, right at the bottom of the steering spindle. You don't have to be terribly exact with the lubricant. Just use the extension and wear goggles, because if you do it right there's bound to be excess. Point, shoot, drop the car back down, and go for a drive. If the problem persists, rinse and repeat or try the other steps.
Nice job on the write up, tis is one of those "I know whwt I need to do" things that you just never get around to doing. I like the idea on using the insulation from the solid core wiring, I may strip som 12-2 to see if that fits the ticket.
I used an old can of chain lube that I have had for years that I just couldn't throw away, I KNEW I kept that can for SOMETHING!
Tom --M3 SEDAN CLUB #55
(TDWyatt)
Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -Plato
i have a squeek whenever i back out of my garage... its like... THE ONLY time it ever squeeks
i suppose i should spray it down with some fluid.. dun have time though... wait i can do it now... sigh ok maybe im just lazy
i cleaned my car YAY
Bringing this back to post a "thanks" to an excellent write-up, and great results! Finally, no more steering wheel squeak!
M3 SEDAN CLUB #18
I've been looking for a "copper-based grease" to use for the slip ring and haven't really found anything.
The closest I've found is a copper anti-seize compound. I suspect this is what people are talking about, but it doesn't say anything about electrical conductivity in the description or usage information.
I've found this stuff at local auto parts stores in small bottles and in a semi-solid stick form. Here are some URLs (add www to the front, since I can't post links):
crcindustries.com/catalog/datasheet.asp?PN=SL35903&FAM=Lubricants
appliedproducts.com/store/item_detail.cfm?ITEM_ID=16
Is this the stuff you guys are using on the slip ring?
Thanks.
I've got my radio code, but I have no idea how to get my auto-up windows working again. Does anyone know the code for that stuff, or is it specific to my vehicle?Originally Posted by Patrokloss
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