Im at a shop now...my 2003 530i ABS module needs replacing, after swapping it out...so far this is ABS Module # 3 that refuses to be coded....part # s match.
We have are using BMW software from the dealership....what are we doing wrong.
We are going mad at this precise moment.
Last edited by GiantSam; 12-11-2021 at 12:51 PM. Reason: Mistake
Screenshots or pictures of what it's doing or not doing?
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
New or junk yard parts.. never heard of new parts doing this..
2003 X5 4.6is - for sale
2006 X5 L83 5.3 6l80 swapped in progress - for sale
1999 528i 5.7L 4l60e swapped w/ 31 spline 8.8 cobra diff - for sale
2007 ZX-10r - sold
1987 R-10 SWB L83 5.3L 6L80e swapped
www.87chevy.com
It just wont accept the coding,used 2 of their diagnostic computers and 2 coders..the parts numbers all match.....2 rebuilt ones and 1 new one....2nd BMW indy ive been too....its been there 9 days, im not being charged for all of the labor thankfully.
The old one, works fine until it heats up and throws the trifecta.....im not a mechanic, but just cause the part # s match, is it possible its not for my 03 with my motor and options ?.....
Nothinh else is affected...all gauges work.
They both claim the car is throwing all kinds of codes, speed sensors etc which are all fine........I dont know what kind of pictures ya want....cause as you know it takes 5 minutes to replace, and even less time to code.....place is ownes by 2 German guys and dozens of people rave about them, but these guys are missing something.
Everytime they get a code, it checks out as nothing wrong.......im ready just to put the old one back in at have it work 1/2 the time (its cooler here in ny).........
By monday the car will have been there 11 days.......Please ask questions ill do my best to answer them.....ive this car since new and im getting bent......thank you guys
The only thing I found wrong ( module issue not fixed) after I took the car home for a day was that the DSC fuse in the glove box had blown..brought the car back...#30 ? 31? Mentioned it......replaced 25a fuse, brought car back and told them...thats all i got
Well, the fact that fuse 30 was blown is very concerning. It couldn't have been blown when you were coding, because that's the main power supply for ABS/DSC.
I think Abel wanted to see a screenshot of ISTA's report after coding was attempted. Did it say coding was successful, and have a green check, or unsuccessful with a red X?
I have installed used ABS/DSC modules in this generation, and used ISTA to code/program. I have had the wheel speed sensors cause codes and even ABS application (thumping) around corners, gradually correcting itself, during multiple test drives. I guessed that the sensors and module were becoming acquainted, as after clearing codes and driving further and harder several times, everything worked perfectly.
It does worry me when you say "used two of their diagnostic computers and 2 coders".....non-BMW "coders" and diag computers are the wrong tools for this job.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
Yes....why would a glovebox fuse blow...never blew before....im at the point where its put the original one back in, at least it works 1/2 of the time...(during cooler weather)
I'm getting intermittent brake trifecta lights, and scanned for a wheel speed sensor fail, wire. How do I know which wheel needs the new sensor??
We need to know what car you're talking about....and you need to use a better diagnostic scan tool. Either of the cars you list will tell you exactly what sensor is bad, if you use a good scan tool, connected to the round underhood diagnostic port.
As a general diagnostic technique for cars much older than the two you list, which don't have viable computer diagnostics: Unplug 3 of the 4 wheel speed sensors, then drive the car a hundred yards. If the light comes on, the problem is NOT with the sensor you've left connected. Therefore, unplug that one, and plug in a different one, and drive . When the light does not re-illuminate, you've found the bad sensor.
Oh, and please don't jump into the middle of someone else's thread, start your own.
Last edited by bmwdirtracer; 12-24-2021 at 09:39 AM.
Chris Powell
Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
BMWCCA 274412
German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471
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