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Thread: Changing secondary cam tensioner guides on M62?

  1. #1
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    '97 540i Dinan, 98 740iL

    Question Changing secondary cam tensioner guides on M62?

    I'm in the middle of an M62 (non-Vanos) timing chain guide job. Once I get the Jesus bolt off (Baum Tools crank holder is on the way), I'll lock the cams and flywheel.

    There is also some visible wear in the secondary chain guides (the cam-to-cam chain), so I ordered those parts also. Is it possible to change those pads without removing one or both cam sprockets?

    I really don't want to dismantle any more timing-related parts than absolutely necessary... although I suppose with the cam locks in place, nothing should move in theory...
    '98 740iL E38 201k, TCG at 190k, 5HP24 at 195k
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    2000 EuroSport RHD 540it
    Quote Originally Posted by DrCharles View Post
    I'm in the middle of an M62 (non-Vanos) timing chain guide job. Once I get the Jesus bolt off (Baum Tools crank holder is on the way), I'll lock the cams and flywheel.

    There is also some visible wear in the secondary chain guides (the cam-to-cam chain), so I ordered those parts also. Is it possible to change those pads without removing one or both cam sprockets?

    I really don't want to dismantle any more timing-related parts than absolutely necessary... although I suppose with the cam locks in place, nothing should move in theory...

    Don't know about changing them without removing the cam sprockets because that tensioner needs to clear the studs that hold it in place. Changed mine when I replaced the heads, so it was very easy to change
    Current:
    2000 RHD Euro Sport Slicktop 540it Glacier Green/Black
    2009 LHD e92 335i Sport Black/Black


    Former:
    1997 5sp locker 4Runner Green/Beige
    1991 Buick Park Avenue Gold/Beige

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    1998 BMW 540i/6
    I removed both sprockets when I did the timing chain job, I just replaced every chain/ tensioner and guide and I could not get it to clear otherwise. The locks will hold the cams just fine. The tensioners will be quite stubborn to get off so just tap them with a mallet or a deadblow and then slowly wiggle them up and off the studs.

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