850CSI camshaft regrind

[dragon850]

Hi whiteghost1,
They were going to look at the camshafts and add metal and regrind to stock configuration. I don’t recall the exact price but I think it was 300 per shaft and additional 70 to add metal on each shaft. Don’t hold me to those numbers and I don’t hold Webcams to those numbers.
James

Keep us posted on the results on these, are you regrading to oem csi spec or are you going with Schrick lift?

[jimmythefish]

Quick update: Dbilas came through! I just received the camshafts today, so now I can prepare to replace lifters, rockers, valve seals, and install the new camshafts and get the CSI back together….it has been down since September…ugh!
Duration inlet 266 outlet 266
Peak timing 112 degrees
Valve lift 11.0 mm
Lift to TDC inlet 1.0 mm outlet 1.0 mm

Schrick duration is 264 verses dbilas 266 not sure if that really will make any real change….just the only difference I noticed in specifications. The previous owner did a Dinan tune with the car, which might compliment these camshafts. Personally, I don’t care….I just want a smooth and strong running CSI.🙂

If any one has any tips or advice I am open to anything sources regarding tools that help the process of removal and installation of valve seals, etc….to complete the job correctly. I watched Sreten change his valve seals on his M70 (thanks Sreten). However, I have not located his tool kits on eBay here in the states. I ordered valve stem pliers from AGA tools from a recommendation on here. Also, since the camshafts are out, I might be able to use a generic spring compressor to remove and reinstall the keepers under the valve springs. I will also need a tool to seat the seals.

I will be using compressed air to hold the valves up.

Dragon850, sorry I did not answer you question sooner, but I was still waiting on dbilas. Therefore, I did not send the originals to web cams since dbilas came through.

James

[cartoonz]

Don't use compressed air. Use a length of soft braided nylon rope in the cylinder instead.

[shogun]

here a lot of pics when we made it on a M70 B12 at my garage http://e32b12.blogspot.com/search/label/Stemseal we also used a rope, copied/translated
Generally, the method of fixing the valve is to attach an adapter to the plug hole and send compressed air into close contact with the head, but there is a risk that the valve will fall off when the stem is removed or attached, which is also an anxiety factor. This time , I will use the rope method used on Johan & Sean's site. We will prepare an aluminum tube that is slightly thicker than the plug hole and a rope that is thick enough to fit inside. At Johan's site, the rope was pushed in with a screwdriver etc., but a friend can pass the rope through the guide for workability. He proved to be better and lent me a set of those tools. Return the cylinder to the top dead center position and then return the cylinder rotation by 60 degrees, which creates a certain amount of space inside the cylinder and allows the rope to be inserted. Pass the rope through the guide, pull out the rope about 2 inches (5-6 cm), and insert it until the guide hits the end of the plug hole.
When you reach a dead end, grab and fix the rope at a position about 5-6 cm behind the guide, and then pull it back while rotating the guide in the winding direction of the rope, and only the guide will slide. This time, if you insert the guide and rope together into the plug hole, the slided rope will enter the cylinder, the first 50-60 cm will easily enter with this alone, but the inside of the cylinder is a rope Once it starts to be filled, it will be easier to twist in the cylinder by rotating the rope itself a little. It is a good idea to mark the rope with masking tape etc. so that it will be a guideline for the next work because it is enough to enter about 1 m. When the rope is fully inserted, turn the crank in the direction of rotation and it should become stiff just before top dead center. Use a long torque wrench or ratchet to stop it before removing the cotter.

we also used 2 spring compressors Sealey VS168 Valve Spring Compressor Lever Type OHV/OHC, so no need to always change for inlet/outlet position http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JH5RklP4IJ...0/P1160616.jpg here are some from UK and China, should be also available from US sellers.

[jimmythefish]

Cartoonz,
Thanks for the input, besides the fear of a valve dropping with compressed air (which is a big one) any other reason? I was going with the compressed air option because I was just afraid of putting dirt in the cylinder with rope and yes just putting something inside the cylinder bothered me. However, Shogun gave me a great write up that I see a better way to get the rope in there with less chance of contamination which I am definitely considering.

Shogun, thank you that write up is great! I am considering the rope method more seriously now, nice tip on the aluminum tube for the valve seal and for the rope. I have the old camshafts already out, so the Sealey tool won’t work unless I reinstall the cams before changing all the other parts….which is an option. Thank you for the help

James