p1188 and 1189 - guidance needed

[dcurbet]

99 m3 manual 118K
dinan supercharger installed at dealer at original purchase time
car sat for 7 years

new fuel pumps, plugs, idle valve, maf, and new hoses going to these parts. radiator, alternator, coolant, brakes and all that other jazz which seemed obvious is new. Did not replace fuel filter however due to rusty cover which i was worried about breaking and the car started, ran and made no indication of it being needed. (maybe a reason here maybe not)

cleaned throttle body, various vacuum lines replaced.

(oil pan off for oil pump nut earlier in another thread), back together just fine.

starts runs and is great. Maybe less power once it hot, maybe a perception or maybe an inherent consequence of the hotter air the supercharger is pumping once warm. No biggie just thought i would mention.
Cannot pass emissions due to CEL. Codes displayed at the emissions station are 1188 and 1189. In addition to that ASC light is on. Not sure its related, i have a new throttle cable on order since i notice the plastic nut is broken and maybe triggered an error at one point.

These codes seem to be difficult to pinpoint. Any advice or direction i should look in?

thanks!

[TheJordanWhitte]

A lot of times it’s the CCV or a vacuum leak near the throttlebody with those codes, but I’m sure you’ve already researched a little bit and found that they come up for a number of different reasons.

How fast do they come back after you clear them?

[dcurbet]

they came back after about 50 miles.... i drove back to the emissions station after about 30 miles (next day) and it was not ready. Drove it one more day and a few miles before i was reaching the station again, light came on.

[TheJordanWhitte]

You could try upstream o2’s

[dcurbet]

its two sensors upstream correct?
BOSCH 13884 good?

[importbanana]

who did the software on that thing

[Braymond141]

You have an air leak. New o2 will not resolve this though I would not discourage replacing them if you wanted.

Inspect all vacuum lines including the FPR end.
Inspect the ICV hose setup (which is already trash in standard Dinan form).
Inspect the Dinan check valve for the fuel tank vent. They crack apart.

Start there. The Dinan valves for the ccv don’t often fail but they can also be a culprit. I have a whole box of them if you need one.

[dcurbet]

no idea who did the software, i would imagine its stock or maybe a dinan flash at the time of install? there is a receipt present from 2000 or 2002 (dont recall) from a colorado dealer re the supercharger install.

i looked at and replaced most of the vacuum lines. i say all because i replaced what i saw and i could not find a vacuum diagram but i could try looking again.
When i replaced the idle valve i replaced the hose to it as well with a new one. I need to know more about what you mean 'dinan setup' - i do see how they tapped into the ccv hose and connected the supercharger into the loop.
Where is the check valve for the fuel tank?

The car does idle kind of high... i recall this engine idling just around 600+ in my previous m3 ownership. This one is right under 1000 or briefly over at times...

[modifiede30]

Even though my car isn't supercharged I'd be interested in what you find here, since I'm chasing the same issue. I did 2 separate smoke tests this week and there are no vacuum leaks so I've ruled this out. My WB A/F gauge seems to show very normal readings above 2k RPM, but once it drops below this, it maxes out the gauge as lean. I also monitored the O2 signals from the upstream sensors and both are steady at idle, no voltage fluctuation which I'm not sure is right. My OBD readings show flat as well until I give it gas and then they both fluctuate according to the OBD scanner. I haven't been able to check them at the harness though. Might be the same thing even if my car isn't supercharged. I am running it catless, 3.5" MAF, and the M50 intake setup using Kassel tuning. Curious what you find - if I figure it out I'll post it in case its similar.

[dcurbet]

Merry Christmas and happy holidays everyone
Finally found some time to dig under the intake manifold and replace these two parts.
7661352E-72CC-41CF-958B-EB261E9FC4C6.jpegI didn’t find anything wrong with the ones I took off and the hose connections seemed good. I don’t have a lot of confidence that this will fix my issue but I will bet on this electrical part since the other one seems to be just an oil catch set up.
There is this valve before the oil dipstick tube I’m not quite sure how it works but I put suction on the little vacuum nipple and it held firm. I should’ve just replaced it but I didn’t have it.
6F43CFA5-CDA5-4911-8416-D74B0DC0EED8.jpeg

[dcurbet]

Rpms seem closer to where they should be. 32B504A2-49B9-4764-85C4-22B193E63E3A.jpg

[dcurbet]

What is this part? Connects to a vacuum line and to the dipstick tube
27A494D8-5B23-42E4-87A0-2F86DEF1CACB.jpeg74DA01C3-F171-4127-A718-87B7BA05761F.jpeg

[Braymond141]

Protects the crankcase from boost pressure while retaining operation of the ccv.

I do not know why you selected those items to replace but you’re not fixing it with those.

[dcurbet]

I thought the fuel vent was the valve I replaced? Am I wrong?

Do you mind pointing me to the correct part number to replace? Maybe I misunderstood when reading your post.

[dcurbet]

been a while, but the winter roads kept me from driving. Plus i had too many other things to do.

Reset the CEL and drom for 25 miles before the CEL came on again. Drives fine but i still thinks it idles a bit high... right under 1000

Can i regroup and go at this again? What is next to replace? Need to get it to pass emissions...
thx

[dcurbet]

You have an air leak. New o2 will not resolve this though I would not discourage replacing them if you wanted.

Inspect all vacuum lines including the FPR end.
Inspect the ICV hose setup (which is already trash in standard Dinan form).
Inspect the Dinan check valve for the fuel tank vent. They crack apart.

Start there. The Dinan valves for the ccv don’t often fail but they can also be a culprit. I have a whole box of them if you need one.

I believe I replaced the fuel tank vent valve - but i am wondering about your message above where you question my choices.

Is the Dinan valve the small shiny canister between the supercharger and the valve cover?
I looked over all of the hoses and dont see anything ripped cracked or otherwise defective.

Anything else i can check?

[pbonsalb]

You need to have someone who knows what they are doing check the car. The supercharger was installed 20 years ago, the car sat for 7 years, and you don’t know much about the history or the supercharger or how to troubleshoot and maintain and repair forced induction E36.

Why did the car sit for 7 years? Maybe it had problems then and was abandoned for that reason. You could have damage to wiring from mice or there could be any number of other problems. If you are confident the problem is an air leak, try pressurizing the system and listening. Try smoke testing.

You are in VA. You could send the car to RRT - I have read that name a bit over the years. But I would probably skip that and take it to a place like CES in NC that has a lot of E36 forced induction experience.

[dcurbet]

The car sat because the previous owner left for the west coast got married and had too much going on to retrieve his car from his grandma s house. Its a true story as i know the owner and the circumstances.
Sure there may be other issues. I was leaning on this forum as a means to troubleshoot.

Shops in this area are too lazy to dive into this and knowledge is scarce. Plenty of better paying work to do around here for them.

Anyway thx for the suggestions.

[dcurbet]

Smoke test done, nothing found.
shop says car is running rich. ( I thought it was lean the whole time….)
will try the upstream O2 sensors next.

[AJLM34A]

shop says car is running rich. ( I thought it was lean the whole time….)
will try the upstream O2 sensors next.

What you should try next is buying an ODB2 scanner instead of throwing a lot of parts at it.

Where is the needle of the coolant temp gauge when the engine "should be" at operating temp?

Since the ODB2 temp sender sends out 2 separate signals, 1 to the cluster and another to the DME, you need to find out what the DME is seeing.

[Braymond141]

Smoke test done, nothing found.
shop says car is running rich. ( I thought it was lean the whole time….)
will try the upstream O2 sensors next.

That isn't going to fix it... but I'm repeating myself.

[dcurbet]

That isn't going to fix it... but I'm repeating myself.

Yes I know you said that but I couldn’t decipher what your other suggestions were.

- - - Updated - - -

What you should try next is buying an ODB2 scanner instead of throwing a lot of parts at it.

Where is the needle of the coolant temp gauge when the engine "should be" at operating temp?

Since the ODB2 temp sender sends out 2 separate signals, 1 to the cluster and another to the DME, you need to find out what the DME is seeing.

temp needle is correct, climbs as expected and stays in the middle.
what is a good obd2 unit to have for this era Bmw? I ll source one.

[dcurbet]

Plenty of replies..
here are some screenshots of the diagnostics. Put in a new bov today, the old one was definitely leaking a bit. Any ideas let me know, the CEL still plagues me.
6E1554F0-0F3D-46DD-BCDE-39C09E3EF1C6.jpg99FC75AA-4D0B-4461-B343-78F0770B98E7.jpgD8BF514D-B9A5-40DD-B76A-D7631C977E71.jpg76B91E4D-70A4-42A8-A5F3-DEE8D656706A.jpg

[dcurbet]

Last two 2FD5FBD2-AD10-42CA-95A4-33973CDD3DC1.jpg2348BC1A-0382-4FA5-BDCD-B2670906014C.jpg

[dcurbet]

The upstream o2 sensors I replaced were these we below. I hope they are correct. I see ECS tuning for example says these are not compatible with my car. Rockauto says they are correct.
Who s right?

BOSCH

13884