High Altitude Supercharging

[philly98540]

Red 30#s are enough with 3.25 pulley. So is stock fuel pump. Philly plate 2.0 is the way to go for any pulley. VF set up sucks. Reliability is so much better.

[ThaDoubleJ]

Ok, I'll have to find someone to build me a phillyplate, I don't have that skill level, but that's for next year along with the 3.25 pulley. Both need some work, so maybe the same shop can do both.

Do you still have your 30# reds? Does the squirty part look like this?

No Name Injector.jpg

[philly98540]

Plate is easy. Sabre saw then a file. Drill holes. You got this. You can keep VF setup too. Low boost up at your altitude so might be ok. Up to you.

I can’t find my 30’s. I’ll keep looking.

[ThaDoubleJ]

Got me some racecar parts!

M5 Bars.jpg

[JimLev]

Those look brand new.
Did you get the longer bolts? You’ll need them.

[ThaDoubleJ]

The guy over on M5 board who sells them does a wire wheel/rattle can job on them real quick before he sends them. I've got the M5 plate and the longer bolts along with the bars and whatever those plastic pieces are. Highly recommend Clemster over on that forum if you need some M5 goodies.

[JimLev]

I’m not sure what those plastic pieces are for, maybe some sort of wind or stone deflector? Anybody know?

[philly98540]

I think they keep road debris and rocks from hitting the lower control arms. Being aluminum maybe they had to show they were being somewhat protected to avoid them getting beat up and maybe cracking later in life and causing loss of vehicle control? And or maybe for some streamlining of air flow? Just guessing of course.

[wagons ho]

Those plastic triangles are just a mounting point for the rear wheel liner. Pretty sure all sedans have them.

[ThaDoubleJ]

If I remember right, I only have one currently, one side seemed to be missing, but it's been a few weeks since I was messing around the back of the car. Got no Christmas or New Years plans, so I'm hoping for good weather and then I can put in a solid week on this next project.

[ThaDoubleJ]

Is anyone familiar with the wiring behind the dash? When I pull my foglight switch out to put my boost gauge, I'd like to just run the fogs along with the headlights. I can make up some convoluted relay logic, but maybe there's an easier way?

[ThaDoubleJ]

Project is underway. I put in some new motor mounts, pulled the fan, shroud, expansion tank, intake, bumper and front lower fender liners. Anyone know why my fender liners block off my brake cooling ducts?

Found some pictures online of these liners with square holes in them for the ducting, wonder why mine doesn't have that....very expensive from BMW

Also going to do my T stat while I'm in there, and whatever sensors are associated. Temps seem all over the place, I see 105, 92, 90 and 88. Reccomendations?

Brake Duct.jpg
Fender Liner.jpg

[ThaDoubleJ]

Didn't make it very far this morning, install manual doesn't match what I've got and there's a roll pin in the way. Anyone run into this on their car? Do I pull the roll pins or mangle the fittings with a hand drill? The line shown in the picture 90s down from the condenser, then 90s across, then 90s into the compressor. The line I was supplied is straight on one side, 45 degree on the other.

Trying to post pictures, but I've exceeded the forum quota and I'm not sure how to fix that.

[philly98540]

I’ll be honest I can’t remember what I did there. I don’t remember anything special. I may have needed to bend a line a little but really can’t recall. Maybe try VF? Good luck

[ThaDoubleJ]

I think your condenser has the inlet placed higher up and you were supplied a half flexible/half rigid hose. I have a braided stainless line. As far as I can tell, the entire install manual was written for the earlier cars, then they modified the kit for the facelift cars, but didn't add much to the manual other than some addendums. I've also just realized that the manifold has to come off, the idea of removing that rear plate while it's in the car is asinine. The bolts holding mine on are torqued to about 11,000 foot pounds and I've destroyed 2 of them already trying to get tools back there. Good thing I set aside the whole winter for this work and it's been in the 60s every day so far.

Philly, do you have a thread on your meth install? I recently learned that both of my washer tanks supply the windshield, so I want to modify my main tank like you did for the meth supply.

[philly98540]

That plate bolts suck!! Good luck! Get new manifold gaskets and hold down spacers while you have it off. The rubber on the spacers is what squeezes the mani down. Some put washers in to help vs buying new spacers. There are some threads on getting those rear bolts off. Maybe try some of that first. Good tricks out there.

I never did fully detail out my meth install. But yeah I use the stock washer tank and connect the suction tubing fitting to the lower rear of the tank. I route the plastic suction line inside of some fuel line as a conduit. Mount pump as low as possible in front of passenger front wheel. Route suction line along subframe securing appropriately and route to pump. Self primes with pump being low. Discharge line routes up to SC’er area. T off and spray a small nozzle pre supercharger and a medium nozzle after the Supercharger. Use check valves at each nozzle. Only use M1 methanol mixed with distilled water otherwise nozzles get clogged up. Use a variable speed meth kit.

[ThaDoubleJ]

Already got the manifold off and discovered that some people have been in there before. The injector electronics are pretty broken. I'm a bonehead and forgot to re-bolt the fuel rail down so I accidentally yoinked the injectors when I was trying to get the clips off, broke some more stuff. There's also a pipe underneath that I forgot to disconnect, so I broke that (looked like it was pre-broken anyway). The hose at the front of that pipe is in BAD shape and everything is full of oil, so I'll definitely be doing a catch can.

After seeing the condition of the electronics to injector bits, I don't want to do these injectors again at any point. If anyone has a picture of the pintle area of the Bosch reds they could send me that'd be awesome. I have no clue who made these things I have, and I think I just want to go with the good stuff and be done with it. If anyone in the 500 club using the monster greens has medium reds to sell, let me know!

Wait, wouldn't the medium reds look like the little greys I have right now? My little greys have 4 very small holes instead of the 3 super large holes in the possibly chinese injectors I got with the kit.

Also found all new gaskets in the box-o-parts that the PO gave me with the car, that's a win! And LED foglights from a defunct place called Bavarian Autosport.

Quick tip: You can't take the sensor out of the thermostat housing. There's a clip that would lead you to believe you can...but you can't, or you'll break it. Luckily, I'm going to do an 88C stat anyway, but that would have been a perfectly good housing for someone else until I broke it. Also, you can only get half of the thermostat itself out, the other half stays in, and I'm pretty sure I'll break it if I keep messing with it.

Doing some research now on this resistor thing I'm reading about, can't quite determine if the thermostat is opened by heat or by the DME. The Euro spec 88C stat I'm looking at has no sensor/plug/whatever you want to call it, it's capped off.

Edit: After some reading on this resistor thing, it looks like the stat can control itself manually or be heated up by the DME if need be. The resistor value in Jim's car is 12 ohms, but there is a BMW part that is 1000 ohms....that's a big difference, 988 ohms by my calculator, well outside of a typical 5-10% allowable variance. That's confusing. Since I broke my stock stat sensor and the ends are poking out, I figure I can just solder a 12 ohm in there and plug it right back in, yeah? TTFS can probably repogram my DME down the road for lower temps if I'm getting the Pxxxx low temp code that new cars occasionally throw? I hate codes!

On the youtube this guy's M5 has the washer reservoir in the passenger front wheel well behind the fender liner. 03 540 is in the same place?

https://imgur.com/aNufdbe

https://imgur.com/XmqbadM

[ThaDoubleJ]

Who do I talk to about this error: error: Exceeds forum quota by 1.4 KB.

I'm trying to use an image hosting service and still getting the same thing.

aNufdbes.jpg

[scottieducati]

Project is underway. I put in some new motor mounts, pulled the fan, shroud, expansion tank, intake, bumper and front lower fender liners. Anyone know why my fender liners block off my brake cooling ducts?

Found some pictures online of these liners with square holes in them for the ducting, wonder why mine doesn't have that....very expensive from BMW

Also going to do my T stat while I'm in there, and whatever sensors are associated. Temps seem all over the place, I see 105, 92, 90 and 88. Reccomendations?

Brake Duct.jpg
Fender Liner.jpg

Here ya go:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E39-M-S...-127632-2357-0

I actually prefer these to OEM. Plastic tends to be less brittle.


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[ThaDoubleJ]

Thanks, those look good. They're pretty much identical to what I've got, minus the hole yeah? I may just cut mine, not sure.

[scottieducati]

Thanks, those look good. They're pretty much identical to what I've got, minus the hole yeah? I may just cut mine, not sure.

I’m sure a dremel would make quick work of it.


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[ThaDoubleJ]

Beating my head against a wall over these injectors, I discovered that they appear to be made by Accel, who is owned by Holley. Internet lore says the plastic body ones were not very good, but the new steel body ones seem to have pretty good reviews. The three big holes as opposed to the four small holes in the Bosch units are supposed to produce a cone pattern instead of 4 squirts, blah blah science. Unless someone knows something I don't about these, I think I'll stick with them and see what happens since I can't even find the Bosch reds (even though I suspect they're the same units a Mustang uses).

[ThaDoubleJ]

What did you all do with your ABS pump and lines? The kit is looking to relocate that equipment about 1.5" and I don't see how the hard lines can be moved that far without damage. I've not done much work with brake system lines during my car wrenching days.

[H3adBussa]

What did you all do with your ABS pump and lines? The kit is looking to relocate that equipment about 1.5" and I don't see how the hard lines can be moved that far without damage. I've not done much work with brake system lines during my car wrenching days.

I just put mine on the provided bracket and pushed it into place. If you feel like your lines are binding/possibly breaking, I'd say you could loosen the nuts that hold the lines in and move the unit then retighten them. Will probably have to bleed the brakes using inpa afterwards though. Tbh, I don't feel like the stock lines were that fragile. I'd just push it into place.

Note: I have aftermarket stainless steel braided lines though.

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[philly98540]

They just bend over a little. No issue.