Should I buy back my 1998 528i?

[GAflyer]

Roveer,
Reasonable approach to what could be a good car for you. Major bias exists on this forum toward the V-8's, but I've had my 2000 528 since new, and never regretted it. Less power of course, but the inline 6 is pretty bullet proof. I couldn't afford an M5 at the time...whatever.
I replaced the major cooling system elements pro-actively at about 70k (no leaks at the time, just kept reading about it). Items 1 and 2 can also be ABS module (it was on mine-rebuilt for $200 from ebay refurb service). Google "e39 trifecta lights"- lots of info. 528's may develop an oil leak at the base of the oil filter canister assembly...not a hard fix. I replaced the Vanos seals with the upgraded ones from Beisan -a bit involved, but not hard.
Most typical repairs are well documented either on forums or Youtube.
Tires are indeed about $1,000 and may solve some of the other "issues". Maybe $1,000 at the outside to sort the other stuff. My suspension is still going strong at 95,000 miles with no replacements.
My car lives in the snow and salt-free south, so has no rust. Yours may be different.

528's probably won't appreciate like M5's, or even 540's do, but still a nice car.
Good luck.
Rob

[roveer]

Is it recommended to change timing chains at any point on these motors? I'm trying to gauge upcoming maintenance of an e39 as it approaches 100k miles. Assuming that is a 1k+ job?

I don't think the owner took my 1k offer on the car very well. But as I see it, it's 1k for car, 1k for tires, 1k to sort out other misc. problems and I'm already at the top of it's book value. Throw in another unforeseen 1k+ and I'm regretting my acquisition. Not sure what they are thinking, but these are reasonable and real costs. I see 98 era e39's listed at 6-8k but they are pristine and of course that just what they are listed for. Sold is another story.

[CPHES]

In-line 6 cars are not known for timing chain issues. It has 90k on it, so you should be fine for a bit. We don’t have pics, so it’s hard to say if your valuation is correct. But, if someone else would pay more……

[Ashman528]

Is it recommended to change timing chains at any point on these motors? I'm trying to gauge upcoming maintenance of an e39 as it approaches 100k miles. Assuming that is a 1k+ job?

I don't think the owner took my 1k offer on the car very well. But as I see it, it's 1k for car, 1k for tires, 1k to sort out other misc. problems and I'm already at the top of it's book value. Throw in another unforeseen 1k+ and I'm regretting my acquisition. Not sure what they are thinking, but these are reasonable and real costs. I see 98 era e39's listed at 6-8k but they are pristine and of course that just what they are listed for. Sold is another story.

I understand your rationale about book value and $3K all in being the max that you are interested in paying for this car. All I would suggest is look around and see how much car of any brand and mileage can you buy for $3K? I would say not many that are both road worthy and fun to drive, not even old Hondas or Toyotas with 200K miles and all of them will need some imminent investment to bring up to snuff.

Blame it on inflation, supply chain, chip shortages, new car prices, whatever. The fact remains that prices for used cars are higher now and $3K barely buys you a serviceable car that passes inspection these days. The car is fully depreciated at that price and you will always be able to sell it for what you paid for it, even with the new tires and other work.

My two cents worth.

[DHoang]

i mean no disrespect when i say this, but.....
if i was out shopping for a FULLY DEPRECIATED 3000 dollar used car, an e39 528i would NOT be on my short list
it'd be a camry or an accord, 98-05, 200k miles range

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Well, I do know that there is no way in Hell, i would ever buy a Camry or an Accord….. Those things are for the peasants.

[wagons ho]

I can't believe we are still talking about this.
It's a 98 528 sport with under 100k on it.
Sure, it needs......, they all need.
$1000, won't get it? What will?
I've bought several $1000 cars to drive (all over 170-180k on them) while I spent $$$ on the ones I like.
People with nice cars are starting to be unmoving from their asking prices. Unless car has obvious needs, prices are up.

[CPHES]

Any pics in its current state?

[ross1]

Is it recommended to change timing chains at any point on these motors? I'm trying to gauge upcoming maintenance of an e39 as it approaches 100k miles. Assuming that is a 1k+ job?

I don't think the owner took my 1k offer on the car very well. But as I see it, it's 1k for car, 1k for tires, 1k to sort out other misc. problems and I'm already at the top of it's book value. Throw in another unforeseen 1k+ and I'm regretting my acquisition. Not sure what they are thinking, but these are reasonable and real costs. I see 98 era e39's listed at 6-8k but they are pristine and of course that just what they are listed for. Sold is another story.

First, no need to drop $1k on tires. Plenty of good choices for less.
Another grand or so should be expected for the usual stuff.
You can't expect a car without needs for $1k or even $3k.
Quit looking for reasons to beat the old guy up and being a chiseler or post up the seller's info here and someone else will pick it up.
Even if you wind up with 5 or 6 grand in it if you intend to use the car its utility value far exceeds that.
Have you shopped for a used car in the "few" thousand price range? Nearly all is junk and junk that will cost as much or more than this slightly tired old BMW and return a far less rewarding drive or reliability.
You took how much for it way back when? Open your wallet.

[GAflyer]

Agree with Ross1. On all points.

[CPHES]

+2 to Ross

[roveer]

First, no need to drop $1k on tires. Plenty of good choices for less.
Another grand or so should be expected for the usual stuff.
You can't expect a car without needs for $1k or even $3k.
Quit looking for reasons to beat the old guy up and being a chiseler or post up the seller's info here and someone else will pick it up.
Even if you wind up with 5 or 6 grand in it if you intend to use the car its utility value far exceeds that.
Have you shopped for a used car in the "few" thousand price range? Nearly all is junk and junk that will cost as much or more than this slightly tired old BMW and return a far less rewarding drive or reliability.
You took how much for it way back when? Open your wallet.

I appreciate everyone's input. I don't want to "beat anybody up", including myself. With cars at this value, any major repair can easily be the value of the vehicle. We all know this.

Moisture in cabin. Could have been recently shampoo'd carpet. Could be door/windshield seals. Could be sunroof leaks.
Moisture in front headlights. Could be seal, could be damaged plastic.
Hood damage.
Front Bumper damage (entire skirt below license plate missing)
Front driver fender damage
Left hand running board damage
No Speedo, Yellow Triangle, ABS light. Could be one or more wheel sensor, our could be modules.
Tires (I'm in NJ. Suggest a tire that I'll get mounted, balanced and installed. NJ is always more expensive
One or more wheel bearings sound shot (could be tires, but won't know until they are replaced).
Shocks/struts don't sound good
All the "other" things that should be done for high mileage vehicles, including doing all fluids.

Attachment 698419

So what is a "fair" value? 2,500.00? Now it's a 5,000 car. How much above the high end of it's KBB value is fair?

Roveer

[wagons ho]

Value is based on your own opinion.
Out west were we have lots of rust free project cars available, although they are depleting weekly, I start out hoping for less than $1 g.
It used to be $500.
Torn bumper is standard. Dented hood by the grills is common.
Rocker? Depends. How bad?
What would happen if you screw the deal and he puts it on craigslist, offer up?
98k, clean interior? Sport with style 5's? People might come out.
You never included a picture, or said what color combo. That could change things.
Finally, any suggestion as to what he would take for the car?
Work down from that.

It's an old bmw. Prepare to be disappointed soon after you buy it when the vapor barriers leak, sunroof drains leak, trans craps out, radiator blows, strut bushings, window regulators, I can go on. Oh wait, already bad.
None of this matters, as it's part of the breed.
$5000 cars have all the same problems, only no torn bumper or dents.

[CPHES]

There are lots of tires in the $150 - $170 range. Look on tirerack.com to get an idea. Do you want all season, or dedicated summer rubber - which usually means another set of wheels and winter tires. But there are many choices. Even Costco has stuff in your size.

- - - Updated - - -

Old saying - how fast do you want to go? How much do you want to spend. What is your overall budget for this? Put 1/2 aside for the purchase, and 1/2 for the fixes. Even with what you describe, it’s likely close to a 2k car - 90,000 miles for any 98 car is low.

[ross1]

You can pretty much wipe your ass with KBB values on old cars, especially ones with an enthusiast following.
I just tried seeing what KBB values an E30 at. Since they only go back to 1992 my only option was for a convertible as the coupes and sedans were now E36 chassis.
According to the wizards at KBB a red '92 convertible with 150k, in "good" condition should bring $2500 for a private sale and is worth only a few hundred as a trade in.
I will buy every single one anyone can bring to my door.

[StephenVA]

Buy it, fix it, drive it. Pay what he thinks it is worth $1-3K if no rust worms and body damage. Crap we are not talking about life changing money here or large hi end expensive car that will depreciate 33% in 12-24 months. You can buy it, fix it and flip it and get your money back. DIY labor is always free.

Crap I was GIVEN an X5 3.0 with 200K and it sold with just a wash (and some interior trash removal) for over the book value right out of my driveway. By the way it needed all preventative maintenance to be done. It started, stopped, and drove. What more can one ask at that mileage?

Ok, this post is done

[roveer]

Looks like we got the car. I offered 2k. Wife is working out the details. Now let's hope it doesn't become a sink hole. There are a number of buttons missing on the dash but I found replacements available on eBay. I'm thinking of updating the radio to an android 11 setup which would give carplay and android auto. There is a plastic cover plate missing near the instrument cluster. Any idea where I might find that?

Attachment 698803

[wagons ho]

Congrats, now hit the junkyard for all the little bits
And we are still waiting on a picture, I don't believe you said what color combo it is.

[roveer]

Congrats, now hit the junkyard for all the little bits
And we are still waiting on a picture, I don't believe you said what color combo it is.

Black exterior, Tan interior. Once I get it home I'll post some pics.

Looking for tire suggestions. I'm in northeast (NJ), so I'm thinking all season. I'm not going to have budget to do summer/winter tires unless it's a must. As I remember it wasn't much of a winter/snow car to begin with. Is there general consensus on Tirerack? Big savings? I'm sure my tire shops will charge a premium for mount/balance when I'm bringing my own tires. NJ gauges for just about anything automotive and that doesn't sit very well with me. Unfortunately mounting/balancing isn't something I can DIY even know I've watched the videos with Harbor Freight mount/balance equipment.

[CPHES]

tirerack.com / they ship, and they have an installer list. I have a tire guy in Peekskill NY ( American Cycle and Tire ) who does very well price wise, and I've dealt with for 20 years. I get most of my stuff thru him. maybe a bit of a distance, but not too bad from Northeast NJ. I use Tirerack as a price, and review source. I make final choices based on what I learned from there. Agree that this is not a DIY thing.

[StephenVA]

Tire Rack: Drive down the New Castle, DE locations (located at the south end of the Jersey turnpike) and save yourself the shipping charges. What, 2 hrs max each way too much tp save $$$? Leave early in the am as they open at 8 am.

[roveer]

Tire Rack: Drive down the New Castle, DE locations (located at the south end of the Jersey turnpike) and save yourself the shipping charges. What, 2 hrs max each way too much tp save $$$? Leave early in the am as they open at 8 am.

Is there any advantage to doing that? I see tirerack is offering free shipping. When I poked around it said 40 dollars less for pickup. Not worth the fuel I'd burn for that. I just want to make sure I'm not missing something.

Roveer

[StephenVA]

With free shipping you will see them sometime after the new year

[CPHES]

You get what you pay for. I have bought from tire rack, had the install done by their installer - I paid $160 on top of the tires. Not very happy, but that was a long time ago. I have dealt with my current guy for 20 years…. I drove 90 minutes each way while living in Connecticut to have him do the tires. No regrets. He is priced fairly, does good work, and stands behind it. No bead leaks, no issues.

[roveer]

You get what you pay for. I have bought from tire rack, had the install done by their installer - I paid $160 on top of the tires. Not very happy, but that was a long time ago. I have dealt with my current guy for 20 years…. I drove 90 minutes each way while living in Connecticut to have him do the tires. No regrets. He is priced fairly, does good work, and stands behind it. No bead leaks, no issues.

It's funny you mention bead leaks. I have several cars right now exhibiting this problem . Seems to happen on all my older cars. What am I talking about, all my cars are old. Easily taken care of by cleaning the bead before mounting new tire, but getting tire shop to do that well is a problem. Put new tires on another car and 3 of 4 leaked. Took them back and after they cleaned it up 2 of 4 leaked. I've had so much trouble with the automotive service sector. Fix one thing, break 3 other things. Can't even mount a set of tires properly, the list goes on. I got to the point where I just want to do everything myself but tire mounting/balancing is just a bit too far. I did at one point watch videos on Harbor Freight mounting and balancing tools, but unless someone told me that they used them and they were great, wouldn't go down that path. Just a little hinkey and I wouldn't have the ability to pop the rubber on the bead. I only have a small compressor and I aint doing the fire method. Of course unless I'm missing something.