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Thread: smoke test shows leak on M70 DK throttle flap shaft

  1. #1
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    smoke test shows leak on M70 DK throttle flap shaft

    a vid from a German forum shown that there is a smoke leak at both 2 Bosch throttle valves of the M70 when doing a smoke test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FAQ5UZChZY
    Anyone ever dis-assembled the throttle valve flap and found a shaft seal? Or is there no seal? If there is a seal, dimensions/spec.?
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  2. #2
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    I observed this as well in my previous 750. Forum member dragon850 offers rebuilding services, and said he can replace that seal.

  3. #3
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    got a reply on the German E31 forum, translated:
    there seems to be indeed the shaft guide very leaky. I had not removed the shaft on my DK because it ran backlash-free. The removal is also not really easy, because the screws with which the throttle valve is screwed in the shaft are caulked on the back. This is often difficult to remove (the shaft get's bent). Before pulling out the shaft, you must also make sure that there is no burr on the two threads for the throttle valve screws, because this may ruin the shaft guides. I don't know, but I suspect that the shaft simply runs in the housing and no additional sealing measures (shaft seal) are provided. This is because the gap is so small when the shaft guide is not ruined that the secondary air drawn by it during operation is negligible.
    --------------------
    More comments will follow when I get replies from other forums
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    a vid from a German forum shown that there is a smoke leak at both 2 Bosch throttle valves of the M70 when doing a smoke test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FAQ5UZChZY
    Anyone ever dis-assembled the throttle valve flap and found a shaft seal? Or is there no seal? If there is a seal, dimensions/spec.?
    I deal with this quite a bit.... leak is caused by wear in the small bearing, there is no shaft there.
    The only way to fix is to replace the body with a newer throttle with less wear, as you cannot safely press out and replace that tiny bearing!
    I have several bodies available that might be better.

  5. #5
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    comments on 8er org: auf 8er org werden Bilder gezeigt, die kann man aber nur sehen wenn man angemeldet it, Text:
    Der Thomas hat mir freundlicherweise ein Foto zugespielt auf dem man annähernd erkennen kann was verbaut wurde. Es ist ein INA F-95775 Nadellager verbaut welches mit einer Dichtlippe versehen ist.
    Von den Abmaßen her könnte man das einfach gegen ein handelsübliches ersetzen, dieses gibt es mit einer Dichtlippe oder um auf Nummer sicher zu gehen auch mit einer Dichtlippe auf beiden Seiten.
    einseitig abdichtend: https://www.kugellager-express.de/na...-rs-8x12x10-mm
    Beidseitig abdichtend: https://www.kugellager-express.de/na...2rs-8x12x10-mm
    https://www.8er.org/forum/forum/inde...olen/&pageNo=3

    on 8er org pictures are shown, but you can only see them if you are logged in, text:
    Thomas has kindly sent me a photo on which you can see approximately what was installed.
    It is an INA F-95775 needle bearing which is provided with a sealing lip.
    From the dimensions you could simply replace it with a standard one, this is available with a sealing lip or to be on the safe side also with a sealing lip on both sides.
    Sealing on one side: see link above
    Sealing on both sides: see link above
    https://www.8er.org/forum/forum/inde...olen/&pageNo=3 (can only be accesses as member to see pics)
    Last edited by shogun; 05-15-2022 at 02:35 AM.
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  6. #6
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    My M70 was running very rough when starting the cold engine, misfires, idle a bit up and down. This disappeared immy when I pushed the throttle and idle was also good when engine got to operating temperature. Peake tester showed 1 fault = lambda control. Made today a smoke test with both MAFs removed, smoke from the smoke tester connected to the vacuum hose which I removed from the fuel pressure regulators, checking bank 1 and then bank 2 with same method. Iintakes + other parts no leaks, but on bank 2 a lot of smoke came out of the throttle body valve flap and also from the valve flap shaft out of the housing. Turned out that the flap of the DK did not completely close anymore with the force of the flap spring when cold and thru that opening the smoke came out. Changed the DK against a good working one I had on stock, where the flap was moving smooth from end to end, which I had cleaned earlier, assembled all, made a test run, idle much smoother, no misfires. Then I also checked the 2 distributors and rotors. Bank 2 I already had replaced some years back, bank 1 distributor was from 2001 and the center carbon pin was also down a bit, so that distributor and rotor I also replaced against new Bremi parts, idle run is smooth again as it should be and no more misfires.Engine has full power. The removed DK I will clean up and install 2 double lip seal INA F-95775 needle bearings and keep as spare.

    how to remove this small bearing is shown here on a Porsche throttle valve which uses the same bearing https://www.stinni.de/index.php/porsche/drosselklappe
    Last edited by shogun; 05-15-2022 at 02:19 AM.
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  7. #7
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    Hi Shogun,

    Thank you for this information. Both sets of my refurbished throttle bodies on my 8 series cars has this problem. I have noticed some smoke coming out at that location, which now I understand is another source for unmetered air. I am tempted to do this repair because how else will the car run to factory specification. My question: Does anyone know of a specific tool that would improve the success of removing old and pressing the new bearing verses doing the bolt/dowel technique? I think of this repair is like valve seals, these cars are pushing 30 years old, if it hasn't been done then it needs it regardless of mileage.
    James
    2009 M6, 2005 M3 comp 6spd slicktop, 2002 M3 convertible, 2002 530i slicktop sport package, 2001 M5, 2001 750il, 1994 850 CSI 0015, 1993 M5 3.6, 1991 850i 6spd, 1988 750il, 1988 M5, 1985 535i, 1959 502....yes it is a sickness!

  8. #8
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    Hi Shogun,

    Thank you for this information. Both sets of my refurbished throttle bodies on my 8 series cars has this problem. I have noticed some smoke coming out at that location, which now I understand is another source for unmetered air. I am tempted to do this repair because how else will the car run to factory specification. My question: Does anyone know of a specific tool that would improve the success of removing old and pressing the new bearing verses doing the bolt/dowel technique? I think of this repair is like valve seals, these cars are pushing 30 years old, if it hasn't been done then it needs it regardless of mileage.
    James
    2009 M6, 2005 M3 comp 6spd slicktop, 2002 M3 convertible, 2002 530i slicktop sport package, 2001 M5, 2001 750il, 1994 850 CSI 0015, 1993 M5 3.6, 1991 850i 6spd, 1988 750il, 1988 M5, 1985 535i, 1959 502....yes it is a sickness!

  9. #9
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    It is originally an INA F-95775 needle bearing which is provided with a sealing lip. Probably INA cannot sell it separately due to copyright protection or whatever, I read the same on an VW forum where apparently the same INA bearing is used in a throttle body.

    From the dimensions you could simply replace it with a standard one, this is available with a sealing lip or to be on the safe side also with a sealing lip on both sides. We have to try. Search for the specs below
    Sealing on one side: see link 1 below
    Sealing on both sides: see link 2 below


    https://www.kugellager-express.de/dr...-rs-8x12x10-mm
    Drawn Cup Needle Roller Bearing HK 0810 RS / HK0810 RS 8x12x10 mm
    Item number: HK0810-RS

    inside Ø (mm): 8
    Outside Ø (mm): 12
    Width (mm): 10
    Tolerance for width (mm): 0/-0,3
    Seal: RS
    Ring Material: Rolling bearing steel
    Inner Ring: no
    Rolling Element Material: Rolling bearing steel
    Cage Material: Sheet Steel
    Rows of Rolling Elements: single row
    Magnetic: yes
    Product weight: 2,4 g

    https://www.kugellager-express.de/dr...2rs-8x12x10-mm

    Drawn Cup Needle Roller Bearing HK 0810 2RS HK0810 2RS / 8x12x10 mm
    Item number: HK0810-2RS
    Inside Ø (mm): 8
    Outside Ø (mm): 12
    Width (mm): 10
    Tolerance for width (mm): 0/-0,3
    Seal: 2RS
    Ring Material: Rolling bearing steel
    Rolling Element Material: Rolling bearing steel
    Cage Material: Sheet Steel
    Rows of Rolling Elements: single row
    Magnetic: yes
    Product weight: 3 g

    123bearing.com gets results with
    HK0810-RS
    HK0810-2RS
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  10. #10
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    Changing the throttle valve bearing - brief translation to English: Changing the throttle valve bearing. These instructions describe how to replace the throttle valve bearings on the 924S and 944 Type I.
    This becomes necessary if they either have too much play or the sealing rings of the bearings allow air leakage. ...I noticed during a smoke test that I had a leak in the intake area of ​​my 87 924S. To my amazement it was on the throttle shaft. If you think about it more closely, this is not surprising after 30 years. So it was time to swap bearings! (the shaft is sealed by rubber rings in the bearing). Since I was struggling a bit with it, I'm now writing this guide. Everything without guarantee and liability! But it worked great for me. Finding the right bearings is not difficult, the vernier caliper is your friend.The originals are from INA (F-95775) https://www.kugellager-express.de/ Nadelhuelse- Nadellager-hk0810-2rs-hk0810-2rs-8x12x10-mm

    These can be replaced with the following: Needle sleeve / needle bearing HK 0810 RS / HK0810 RS (1 side sealed) 8x12x10 mm. But I decided (since the leak was caused by the damaged sealing ring) for 2-sided sealed ones: Needle sleeve / needle bearing HK 0810 2RS HK0810 2RS / 8x12x10 mm

    The bearings sit in a kind of blind hole, so you can't align anything with the press or a normal puller. Of course, there are also suitable tools for this, but as a hobby DIYer this is usually a one-time action. And in addition, even the low quality tools costs at least 60€ in this case (internal extractor < 10mm). Not to mention the prices for quality tools > 150€.

    The idea: expansion anchors. More precisely, brass expansion dowels! Heavy-duty anchors can be found in almost every hardware store. Conveniently, these usually already have a groove (or two, as in my case), which is great for grabbing the bearing. M6 dowels fit perfectly. In addition, a longer screw, a thicker washer, nut and a spacer (I used two larger nuts). Looks adventurous, but works perfectly. Simply insert the brass dowel 1/4 into the bearing, spread it and tighten it well (caution, after tight comes..) This can be a bit fiddly with all the nuts and washers on the screw, but it's doable. Then heat up everything around the bearing, a hot air dryer is sufficient here. Then simply tighten the nut on the screw (it is best to counter the screw so that it does not loosen in the plug). Outside is the old bearing. Clean everything up nicely and press in the new bearing (either with the screw or with a press). When assembling, always make sure that the throttle valve is set correctly: A hanging throttle valve flap can cause trouble.

    Link with pics https://www.stinni.de/index.php/porsche/drosselklappe
    --------------------------------------
    I have studied the Porsche throttle valve pics a bit more and found out that even the circular throttle plate is fixed the same way as on our Bosch M70 DK's with 2 bolts on the shaft, and the diameter of the round shape throttle plate even seems to be the same/identical, my Bosch M70 DK plate also shows a 4 stamped into the plate, same like on the Porsche DK.

    123bearing.com gets results with
    HK0810-RS
    HK0810-2RS

    RS = single seal, 2RS = 2 seals

    I case someone here on the forum has done the repair, please post your experience, special attention to..., pics etc

    DK clean up
    http://www.mwrench.com/Whitepapers/DKMotorcleanup.pdf
    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/moswald/75...ies/index.html
    DK input details: http://twrite.org/shogunnew/data/controlsystems.html
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  11. #11
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    Here is a pic of the single parts from an M70 DK disassembled from the Wokke site https://www.wokke.de/SHOP/Shopsystem..._images/07.jpg
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  12. #12
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    Smoke test on one of my TB came back positive Ordered a set of 4 HK0810 2RS from 123bearing.com. Reasonable price including shipping.

  13. #13
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    Rjjablo, I have mine sitting on my kitchen counter. I just haven’t done anything with them yet. I suspect that the cars will run even smoother with that unmetered air blocked or at least when watching the numbers with INPA the DME won’t have to work so hard to keep the car in spec.

    James
    2009 M6, 2005 M3 comp 6spd slicktop, 2002 M3 convertible, 2002 530i slicktop sport package, 2001 M5, 2001 750il, 1994 850 CSI 0015, 1993 M5 3.6, 1991 850i 6spd, 1988 750il, 1988 M5, 1985 535i, 1959 502....yes it is a sickness!

  14. #14
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    Rjjablo, I have mine sitting on my kitchen counter. I just haven’t done anything with them yet. I suspect that the cars will run even smoother with that unmetered air blocked or at least when watching the numbers with INPA the DME won’t have to work so hard to keep the car in spec.

    James
    2009 M6, 2005 M3 comp 6spd slicktop, 2002 M3 convertible, 2002 530i slicktop sport package, 2001 M5, 2001 750il, 1994 850 CSI 0015, 1993 M5 3.6, 1991 850i 6spd, 1988 750il, 1988 M5, 1985 535i, 1959 502....yes it is a sickness!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjjablo View Post
    Smoke test on one of my TB came back positive Ordered a set of 4 HK0810 2RS from 123bearing.com. Reasonable price including shipping.
    Ordered a set too. Not at the point where it's a job that's on the immediate to-do list, but good to have on hand.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjjablo View Post
    Smoke test on one of my TB came back positive Ordered a set of 4 HK0810 2RS from 123bearing.com. Reasonable price including shipping.
    Ordered a set too. Not at the point where it's a job that's on the immediate to-do list, but good to have on hand.

  17. #17
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    I chip in in this one, i have bank one that run a little rough at idle, did a smoke test and I saw smoke coming out of the shaft.
    I guess I have to start looking for a DK or thinking about try the rebuild

  18. #18
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    I smoke tested my M70 last night and found one of my DKs has the bearing leak with smoke coming out of the coil spring just like in the OP. For those above who have purchased the bearing intending to replace it, have you been successful?

  19. #19
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    Lappingluke,
    I haven’t done it yet, I decided to sell my 850 6spd with the bearing/seal included for the next person. My CSI needs the repair too, but too many other things in life going on that I haven’t attempted the repair…yet.

    James
    2009 M6, 2005 M3 comp 6spd slicktop, 2002 M3 convertible, 2002 530i slicktop sport package, 2001 M5, 2001 750il, 1994 850 CSI 0015, 1993 M5 3.6, 1991 850i 6spd, 1988 750il, 1988 M5, 1985 535i, 1959 502....yes it is a sickness!

  20. #20
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    How I did it

    Quote Originally Posted by LappingLuke View Post
    I smoke tested my M70 last night and found one of my DKs has the bearing leak with smoke coming out of the coil spring just like in the OP. For those above who have purchased the bearing intending to replace it, have you been successful?
    Take the TB Apart according to Shoguns instructions
    Bought some 5/16 Expansion Bolts and had Dad turn them to the shaft Diameter which I think is 8MM Or you buy metric expansion bolts
    Pop off the Wiper with appropriate tool. This picture of my wiper is from my trashed set
    Expand the bolt and heat it with the hair dryer or PVC Shrink tool
    I used my buddies Harbor Freight Slide hammer and put the TB in my vise and it came our pretty easy.
    Cleaned everything up with brake cleaner and pushed new bearings back in by hand and tapped them in the rest of the way
    Attached Images Attached Images

  21. #21
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    I marked the Wiper with a sharpie to I could get it back in roughly the right spot
    Took a Picture of the spring so I could get it back in the right spot, turned out to be critical, You put it on and give it one revolution. If you get it wrong the spring will be all cocked.
    Screws holding the throttle plate are staked. I used Loctite Blue when I went back Together
    Took a picture of the gears so it would go back together correctly
    Put all the items in order so it would go back together correctly
    New Grease on the gears, packed the needle bearings with grease also
    Attached Images Attached Images

  22. #22
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    Final

    Closeup of the Machine work on the 5/16 Expansion Bolt
    Index the TB/DK again according to Shoguns instructions
    Reinstall

    Smoke test indicated this TB had a leak. Car Idles a lot better the miss is almost gone, check engine light came back but I am going to wait until the other one is done before I chase anything on that.

    Shogun you should probably put this into your instructions. It made a big difference for mine. Bearings looked fine however I think they are slightly sticky and cause the TB not to be able react.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  23. #23
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    Thanks for the pictures and write up - I’m definitely more likely to tackle this job now


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  24. #24
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    here some excellent pics on the German 7-forum, text in German and translated https://www.7-forum.com/forum/showth...06#post2679306
    Da die Schrauben, mit der die Stauscheibe der DK verschraubt ist, auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite leicht gepresst sind, müssen diese erst vorsichtig angebohrt werden. Ich hatte die DK eingespannt, mit einem Körner ganz vorsichtig angekörnt und erst mit 3mm Bohrer zur Zentrierung und danach mit 5,5mm Bohrer leicht angesenkt. Jeweils nur ganz wenig. Nach einem geringen Losbrechmoment der Schraube, drückt sich der gepresste Teil der Schraube etwas zusammen und man kann sie rausschrauben ohne das Gewinde zu beschädigen. Die Stauscheibe muss ausgebaut werden, um die Welle aus den zu tauschenden Lagern zu entfernen. Nun wird der Motor der DK wie schon oft beschrieben ausgebaut. Alle schrauben Lösen. Magnetkörper leicht anheben, Anker gegenhalten, Deckel komplett abnehmen, Kohlen zurückdrücken und Anker herausnehmen. Alle Teile habe ich in separaten Frischhaltebeuteln bis zum Zusammenbau aufbewahrt. Dann wird die Elektronikplatine mittels der drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben entfernt. Das Potigehäuse kann nun auch abgeschraubt werden. Nun sollte man sich durch ein Bild oder einen kleinen Kratzer mit einem Schraubenzieher o.ä. die ungefähr-Position des Potischleifers kennzeichen. Ungefähr reicht, er muss später eh mittels Winkelscheibe eingestellt werden. Den Potischleifer mit einem Schraubzieher unten am Schaft abdrücken. Die Kontakte dürfen nicht berührt oder gar verbogen werden! Das ist dann auch der richtige Zeitpunkt um aus dem Anschlussstecker der Elektronikplatine die beiden Stopfen der freien Pins auszurücken. Durch einen der beiden wird am Ende mit einem Schlitzschraubenzieher der Schleifer eingestellt. Nun kann auch die letzte gefräste Platte abgeschraubt werden um an das Getriebe zu kommen, aber ACHTUNG! Die Getriebewellen sind mit verschieden dicken Passscheiben untergelegt! Diese müssen wieder auf die gleiche Seite der Welle wie zuvor. Sie bleiben vorallem gerne am Fett hängen, also Obacht. Nun ist ein guter Zeitpunkt die Vorspannfeder zu lösen, ich habe dies damals sogar fast zu Anfang gemacht. Erst durch gegenhalten mit einer Rohrzange an der Scheibe in die die Feder an der Welle einhakt die Mutter auf der Welle lösen (bei mir war diese echt fest), und dann behutsam durch drehen der Rohrzange die Feder weiter belasten um die Scheibe von der Welle abnehmen zu können. Aber ACHTUNG, logischerweise hat diese eine Vorspannung!
    EDIT: Ich hatte nicht die Scheibe von der Welle runter zum Entspannen der Feder, sondern mit einer Zange oder einem Schlitzschraubenzieher das andere Ende der Feder behutsam aus ihrer Mulde gedrückt. Beim Zusammenbau habe ich auch wieder alles ohne Vorspannung zusammengeschraubt und dann die Feder an dem kleinen Zipfel der in die Nut des DK Gehäuses einhakt gepackt und in diese Nut verfrachtet. Dies war einfacher und ungefährlicher als die Scheibe unter Spannung zu demontieren. Die Vorspannung war zwar nicht so extrem, sollte aber dennoch beachtet werden. Wenn ich mich recht erinnere, hat die Feder bei geschlossener Stauklappe etwa 1/3 Umdrehungen Vorspannung auf der Welle. ---> Wichtig für den Zusammenbau.
    Dann kann die Feder und die darunter liegende Plastikscheibe abgenommen werden.
    Für den folgenden Punkt muss die Stauscheibe und die Feder demontiert, und die Drehwelle halbwegs sauber sein, denn nun kann nach entfernen der oberen (weiter vom Ansaugkanal entfernten) Passscheiben der Welle mit den zwei Zahrädern (Zwischen-/ Übersetzungswelle) die Drehwelle der Stauscheibe mit dem 1/3. Zahnrad aus dem Grundkörper entnommen werden. Auch hier wieder auf die Passscheiben achten (diese haben auch unterschiedlichen Dicken!). Anschießend die Zwischenwelle mit Passscheiben entfernen. Ich hatte die Scheiben durch das "Umschlängeln" mit einem Kabelbinder auf der Welle Fixiert, so war alles bis zum Reinigen und zusammenbauen beieinander.
    Herzlichen Glückwunsch, die Drosselklappe ist nun bis auf die Einzelteile zerlegt! Nun geht es an das auspressen, bzw. ausziehen der Lager. Hier hab ich mir ein Tipp aus einem anderen Forum genommen.
    Der Schlüssel zum Erfolg sind M6er Messingspreizdübel. Es hat einige Anläufe gedauert, bis ich es raus hatte... Das äußere, gegenüber zum Motor liegende Lager ist kein Problem. Der Ablauf war wie folgt:
    1. Mutter mit Beilagscheibe zum gegenhalten auf eine lange M6er Schraube drehen.
    2. Dübel bis zum leichten Widerstand ab dem die Spreizung einsetzt auf die Schraube drehen. (von Hand)
    3. eine M10er Beilagscheibe und zwei M12er Muttern mit drüber, um den Weg des Ausziehens aus dem Grundkörper für das Lager zu generieren.
    ACHTUNG: die Muttern müssen dann so Positioniert werden, dass das Lager durch sie hindurch rutschen kann.
    Ich habe dann die Mutter so weit es geht auf die Schraube geschraubt, um mit einer kleinen Rohrzange den Dübel beim Spreizen festzuhalten, denn das Lager wird sich nicht dagegen lehnen sondern mit drehen!
    Nun wird der Dübel so weit in das Lager eingeschoben bis er minimal auf der anderen Seite herausschaut. Das ist Gefühlssache, man kann es nicht wirklich sehen!
    Problem ist, dass bei nicht weitgenug eingestecktem Dübel, dieser beim Spreizen im Lager hängt und sich mit dem Ende nicht so weit Spreizen kann, um die Kräfte des Auspressens an das Lager zu übergeben. Sprich, er zieht sich durchs Lager und dieses bleibt an Ort und Stelle.
    Wenn der Dübel nun also weitgenug hineingesteckt wurden wird er gespreizt. Also mit der Rohrzange den Dübel oben am Schaft packen und mit einer kleinen Ratsche und einer 10er Nuss die Schraube am Kopf nach rechts drehen. Hier ist ein wenig Fingerspitzengefühl gefragt. Dies ist nichts für Schmiede xD. Lieber einmal zu wenig spreizen und nochmal von vorne anfangen, als das Gehäuse zu beschädigen.
    Wenn weitgenug gespreizt wurde, können die M12er Muttern in Position gebracht und die Mutter samt Beilagscheiben von Hand bis auf Anschlag gedreht werden. Nun mit einem 10er Schlüssel vorsichtig die Mutter drehen. Die Schraube selbst muss stehenbleiben, eventuell gegenhalten. Der Moment in dem sich das Lager bewegt ist spürbar. Im Zweifel etwas drehen und die Mutter lösen, alles zurückschieben und nachschauen ob das Lager kommt. Wenn nicht, nicht den Dübel weiter festziehen sondern einen neuen verwenden und neu ansetzten. Mir sind auch einige Dübel zerbrochen, bis ich den dreh raus hatte. War Gut, dass ich 2x 10 Stück gekauft hatte.
    Wenn die Prozedur auf der einen Seite erfolgt ist, ist die andere dran. Hier wird es etwas kniffliger, da das Lager weiter innen sitzt. Ich habe hierzu unter die Beilagscheiben keine M12er Muttern gelegt, sondern zwei dünne Streifen Siebdruckholz. So kann die Kraft gut und weitläufig auf dem Gehäuse ausgeübt werden. Wenn beide Lager draußen sind, werden die Löcher gereinigt, denn hier liegen die Reste der Dichtung drin.
    Ich habe doppelt abgedichtete Lager verwendet. Bestellt habe ich diese bei Kugellager-Express GmbH Teilenummer: HK0810-2RS
    Stückpreis zum 23.11.21 2,30€. Die Lager selbst sind doppelt abgedichtet. Ich habe keinen weiteren Dichtring mit auf die Welle geschoben. Die neuen Lager werden dann vorsichtig von Hand angedrückt und dann mit einem kleinen Holz und kleinen Hammer eingeklopft. All das geht sehr leicht, es braucht keinen Fäustel oder Vorschlaghammer.
    Alle Teile, Wellen, Räder und Scheiben wurden dann mit einem feinen Pinsel und Isopropanol gereinigt. Waschbenzin ist auch ok. Die Zahnräder werden nun mit Heißlagerfett gefettet. Ich habe hier Fett für NFZ Radlager verwendet.
    Nun wird eigentlich in umgekehrter Reihenfolge wieder zusammengebaut, also Wellen mit Passscheiben rein, Adapterplatte rein, Potiläufer aufstecken, Stauscheibe einschrauben (hierbei darauf achten, dass diese im geschlossenen Zustand rundum einen kleinen Lüftspalt hat), Feder aufstecken, vorspannen und mit Nehmerplatte verschrauben, usw..
    enn alles wieder zusammengebaut ist, dürften nur die beiden Propfen für den Stecker übrigbleiben. Nun geht es nämlich an das einstellen des Potentiometers.
    Hierzu wird die DK eingespannt, auf die Scheibe in die die Feder eingehängt wird, wird ein streifen doppelseitiges Klebeband aufgebracht und eine einfache Winkelscheibe aus dem Schreibwarenhandel aufgeklebt. mittels eines Blumendrahts wird bei geschlossener Klappe die 0° Stellung markiert. Nun muss durch einen der beiden offenen Pins am Stecker ein Schlitzschraubenzieher vorsichtig in den Schleiferkörper des Potis eingesteckt werden. Ein Messgerät mit Prüfkabeln wird auf Durchgangsmessung geschaltet und die beiden Kabel an Pin 1 und Pin 7 der DK angeschlossen. In Grundstellung muss hier ein Widerstandswert messbar sein.
    Nun muss die Drosselklappe auf 17° Öffnungswinkel eingestellt werden. Der Wert muss bei richtiger Nullung der Winkelscheibe an dieser ablesbar sein. Nun muss der Schleifer so gedreht werden, dass der bei 17° noch einen Wert anzeigt und ab 18° auf oL, also Unterbrechung geht. Durch das Anpassen des >17° Schalters der DK für die EML wird der Rest automatisch mit angepasst. Zu guter Letzt können nun die Stopfen in die beiden leeren Pins des Anschlussteckers eingesteckt werden. Ich hoffe, ich konnte halbwegs gut wiedergeben, was ich damals gemacht habe.
    ================
    since the screws with which the baffle plate of the DK is screwed are slightly pressed on the opposite side, these must first be drilled carefully. I had clamped the DK, punched with a center punch very carefully and first with 3mm drill for centering and then with 5.5mm drill slightly countersunk. In each case only very little. After a small breakaway torque of the screw, the pressed part of the screw compresses a little and you can unscrew it without damaging the thread. The baffle plate must be removed to remove the shaft from the bearings to be replaced. Now remove the motor of the DK as described many times before. Loosen all screws. Lift the magnet body slightly, hold the armature against it, remove the cover completely, push back the carbons and remove the armature. I kept all parts in separate freshness bags until reassembly. Then the electronics board is removed using the three Phillips screws. The potige housing can now also be unscrewed. Now you should mark the approximate position of the poti grinder by a picture or a small scratch with a screwdriver or similar. Approximately is enough, it must be adjusted later anyway by means of angle disc. Use a screwdriver to press down the pot grinder at the bottom of the shaft. The contacts must not be touched or even bent! This is also the right time to remove the two plugs of the free pins from the connector of the electronic board. Through one of them the slider is adjusted at the end with a slotted screwdriver. Now the last milled plate can be unscrewed to get to the gearbox, but ATTENTION! The gearbox shafts are underlaid with shims of different thickness! These must be placed on the same side of the shaft as before. They tend to stick to the grease, so be careful. Now is a good time to loosen the preload spring, I even did this almost at the beginning. First by holding with a pipe wrench on the disk in which the spring on the shaft hooks loosen the nut on the shaft (with me this was really tight), and then gently by turning the pipe wrench the spring further load to be able to remove the disk from the shaft. But ATTENTION, logically this has a preload!
    EDIT: I didn't have the washer off the shaft to release the spring, but used pliers or a flathead screwdriver to gently push the other end of the spring out of its hollow. When reassembling, I also screwed everything together again without preload and then grabbed the spring by the small tip that hooks into the groove of the DK housing and shipped it into that groove. This was easier and less dangerous than disassembling the washer under tension. The preload was not as extreme, but should still be considered. If I remember correctly, the spring has about 1/3 of a turn of preload on the shaft when the air dam is closed. ---> Important for the reassembly.
    Then the spring and the plastic washer underneath can be removed.
    For the following point, the baffle plate and spring must be disassembled, and the rotary shaft must be reasonably clean, because now, after removing the upper shim washers (further from the intake port) of the shaft with the two gear wheels (intermediate/transmission shaft), the rotary shaft of the baffle plate with the 1/3rd gear wheel can be removed from the main body. Again, pay attention to the shim washers (these also have different thicknesses!). Then remove the intermediate shaft with shim washers. I had fixed the disks by the "Umschlängeln" with a cable tie on the shaft, so everything was together until cleaning and assembling.
    Congratulations, the throttle body is now disassembled to the individual parts! Now it goes to the press out, or pull out the bearings. Here I took a tip from another forum.
    The key to success are M6 brass expansion dowels. It took me a few tries to get it out.... The outer bearing, opposite the motor, is not a problem. The procedure was as follows:
    1. turn nut with washer to counter on a long M6 bolt.
    2. dowel to the slight resistance from the spreading starts to turn on the screw. (by hand)
    3. put a M10 washer and two M12 nuts over it to generate the way of extraction from the base body for the bearing.
    CAUTION: the nuts must then be positioned so that the bearing can slide through them.
    I then screwed the nut onto the bolt as far as it would go, using a small pipe wrench to hold the dowel in place as it spreads, because the bearing will not lean against it but will rotate with it!
    Now the dowel is pushed into the bearing until it protrudes minimally on the other side. This is a matter of feeling, you can't really see it!
    The problem is that if the dowel is not inserted far enough, it hangs in the bearing when spreading and cannot spread so far with the end to transfer the forces of the pressing out to the bearing. In other words, it pulls through the bearing and the bearing remains in place. When the dowel has been inserted far enough, it is spread. So grab the dowel at the top of the shaft with the pipe wrench and turn the screw at the head to the right with a small ratchet and a 10 mm nut. A little dexterity is needed here. This is not for blacksmiths xD. Rather spread once too little and start again from the beginning, than to damage the housing.
    When you have spread the nuts far enough, you can put the M12 nuts in position and turn the nut and washers by hand until they stop. Now carefully turn the nut with a 10 mm wrench. The screw itself must remain stationary, possibly hold it in place. The moment the bearing moves is noticeable. If in doubt, turn a little and loosen the nut, push everything back and see if the bearing comes. If not, do not tighten the dowel further, but use a new one and reattach it. I also broke a few dowels until I had the twist out. Was good that I had bought 2x 10 pieces.
    When the procedure is done on one side, it's the other's turn. Here it gets a little trickier, because the bearing sits further inside. I did not put M12 nuts under the washers, but two thin strips of screen printing wood. This allows the force to be applied well and wide on the housing. When both bearings are out, the holes are cleaned, because this is where the remains of the seal are in.
    I used double sealed bearings. I ordered these from Kugellager-Express GmbH part number: HK0810-2RS
    Unit price as of 23.11.21 2,30€. The bearings themselves are double sealed. I have not pushed another sealing ring with on the shaft. The new bearings are then carefully pressed on by hand and then tapped in with a small wood and small hammer. All of this is very easy, no hammer or sledgehammer needed.
    All parts, shafts, wheels and pulleys were then cleaned with a fine brush and isopropyl alcohol. White spirit is also ok. The gears are now greased with hot bearing grease. I used grease for NFZ wheel bearings here.
    Now reassemble in reverse order, i.e. insert shafts with shim washers, insert adapter plate, attach potentiometer rotor, screw in baffle plate (make sure that it has a small air gap all around when closed), attach spring, preload and screw with slave plate, etc.. when everything is reassembled, only the two plugs for the connector should remain. Now it is time to adjust the potentiometer.
    For this purpose, the DK is clamped, a strip of double-sided adhesive tape is applied to the disc into which the spring is hooked, and a simple angle disc from the stationery store is stuck on. by means of a flower wire, the 0° position is marked when the flap is closed. Now, through one of the two open pins on the connector, a slotted screwdriver must be carefully inserted into the wiper body of the pot. A measuring device with test cables is switched to continuity measurement and the two cables are connected to pin 1 and pin 7 of the DK. In the basic position, a resistance value must be measurable here.
    Now the throttle valve must be set to 17° opening angle. The value must be readable on the angle disc when it is correctly zeroed. Now the slider must be turned so that it still shows a value at 17° and goes to oL, i.e. interruption, from 18°. By adjusting the >17° switch of the DK for the EML, the rest is automatically adjusted as well. Last but not least, the plugs can now be inserted into the two empty pins of the connector. I hope I could reproduce halfway well what I did at that time.
    translated by https://www.deepl.com/translator
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

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