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Calling all big brain brake guys for a little help troubleshooting. This is my first attempt at a major brake job replacing parts and upgrading others.
I have a lot of detail to explain, so I'll try to keep it more bullet point style.
* '99 M3 with stock calipers. Aftermarket powerstop rotors and ceramic pads from R0ckAut0 which were done 3 yrs ago. I've owned this m3 since 2004, and has 120k easy mi.
* Initial problem - Super mushy pedal. Discovered during inspection the left rear rotor cracked in multiple places from extreme overheating. ebrake shoes were dragging due to one spring not seated properly. Spring reseated and ebrake adjusted so the hub spun freely. Looking good so far. Ordered replacement rear rotors (same brand), and decided to change pads to Akebono ceramic pads (all four corners) for better initial bite than powerstop ceramics - only driving short distances these days, and car has never been tracked. Cream puff basically.
* Plan was/is to stick with the same brand/type of rotors, upgrade brake lines to Turner stainless dot approved lines on all four corners. Upgrade caliper guide bushings to bronze (ECS kit) with new guide pins (used white silicone grease to lube them). Pressing in those bushing as a total pain, but they are in now. Possibly replace caliper pistons - bought kit for the rears, but did not install them (yet?). Bleed, bleed bleed, then break in the pads per Akebono directions.
* Problem(s) Brakes noticeably drag at slow speed in driveway. Car will roll, but stops as if the pedal is slightly engaged even though my foot is off the pedal. Short test drive around the block a couple times to listen and feel for anything wrong. Got back to my garage and sniffed all four corners to find out if the pads stink like one would from overheating/dragging. Front rotors after everything assembled and bled, are hard to spin by hand. Sniff test told me the rears got hot compared to the fronts - the opposite of what I was expecting. Front rotors/pad did not radiate as much heat as the rears.
So, I'm nervous about this, and I've read around about causes. Finally decided the better thing to do was come back to the forums to ask guys that know more than I do to troubleshoot the problem(s).
This car is my baby, I've done 90% of the work on it myself since I've owned it, and it is in excellent shape otherwise. Unmolested basically and never a track car. This has been my anxiety/depression outlet to keep my mind busy during covid lockdown and slow business, and I love learning new things as I restore and repair various things all over the car. All of my other projects have turned out sweet. Doing the brakes was outside my comfort zone, but I read a lot and have used some guides to make sure I did things correctly. But, I don't want to kill anyone on the road if I've made mistakes somewhere along the way.
Guys, I've been around the forums since I bought the car in 2004 with 57k mi on it. I love this car, and plan to keep it until the wheels fall off or the man upstairs calls my number.So, I have a lot of respect for racers that work on their own brakes routinely and have encountered every problem there is. I'm swallowing my pride and humbling myself to admit to myself and you all that I don't have all the answers.
Could this dragging rotor situation be as simple as sticky pistons? Right now, I'm too nervous to take it over to an indy shop I know of because of the distance away. If there is something seriously wrong here, I don't want to risk losing control and hurting anyone, including myself. I could have it towed, but then I lose and the brakes win. I'm competitive with myself and hate losing.
In short - ECS bronze bushing kit, Turner SS lines, new rear rotors, new akebono pads all around, cleaned the calipers and brackets thoroughly. New pads were a total b1tch to get in - the inside one that snaps into the piston seemed like it fit ok with the caliper out, but trying to keep it in place while putting the caliper back on the bracket and rotor was cumbersome because it just wanted to pop out. I got them in, but wondered why they were so difficult to keep snapped in the piston to slip them over the rotor. I have new pistons and seals for the rear, but I didn't opt to do that until I could find out if everything else was done properly and just see if replacing them would be necessary. I have a Centric master cylinder on order to replace the original in an attempt to once and for all get the mush and excessive pedal travel back to normal. That is the only part I don't have other than new pistons/seals for the fronts.
Is that too much or too little info to troubleshoot this situation? I could take pictures or video if that would help.
1999 M3 Estoril blue.jpg
Last edited by trading10; 10-11-2021 at 06:46 AM.
Member
Sadly, I don't have all your answers. However...
Your mushy pedal is likely to be solved by a new booster if the other things you did failed to improve it. It won't be the master unless the pedal slowly sinks to the floor. But I'll also point out that our cars are very linear and will never feel like an overboosted modern car (all modern cars have overboosted brakes for a number of reasons).
If you haven't rebuilt your pistons there's obviously no way to rule that out as a source of your problems (and would be the first thing most of us would look at with guide pins). Replacing the pads and rotors would do nothing from that perspective, though the pad not wanting to stay seated is a potential issue.
In a nutshell, guide pins and rebuilding pistons are the first thing I'd look at for the sticking rotors, and the booster is your best bet to fix a soft pedal.
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I called a local brake booster rebuilder that does really fancy work for show car restorations, and basically he said that if the pedal is firm with the car off, and sinks when the car is running, it's not the booster. If the booster was failing, the pedal would be rock solid like it is when the car is shut off. He recommended not rebuilding it, and directed me to focus on the master cylinder, pointing to the seals leaking. So, now I'm thinking, is this why the front rotors were not super hot after doing a test drive, but the back rotors were hot. Does that mean the master cylinder is leaking early where it is activating the front calipers? Both rears were hot. Before I did any work on the brake system, only the left rear rotor was getting much hotter than the other three - stinky as can be like the organic material was burning? After the test drive yesterday, both rears were equally hot.
Before any of this work, a few months ago when I cleaned the engine bay with water, the pedal got soft (leading me to think booster problems), and I started bleeding the brakes with tons of fluid, I took it out for a test drive to mash the brakes until the abs kicked in, as a way to trigger it to bleed itself. When I mashed the pedal like that, the ass end of the car started to creep out to the right like there was unequal braking going on between the two rears. So, that led me to think, stuck piston until I discovered the problem with the ebrake spring not being seated properly and the shoes dragging. I fixed that. But again, after doing this job and test driving it yesterday, why would both sides now be getting super hot compared to the fronts? Master cylinder activating the rears when I mash the pedal, but not as much pressure going to the front rotors? One guy I saw on utube said when bleeding, if you push the pedal too far, enough that the master cylinder goes past it's normal throw, the diameter is narrower due to wear over years, and you end up damaging the seal. How about that theory? The ebrake issue fixed, but master cylinder seal leaking??
Last edited by trading10; 10-08-2021 at 07:27 AM.
Member
Your guy sounds suspect to me personally. I have 255k miles on my car and my master is original. At 120k miles you should not have a failed master. If your master is failing, you should be able to hold pressure on the brakes - car on or off - and the pedal should sink to the floor. On top of that, if this happened when spraying water in the engine bay, that's much more likely to have impacted the fluid or the booster than the master (0% chance water got in the master and ruined it - it's not even located under the hood).Originally Posted by trading10
Your thoughts about less pressure going to the front than the rear is not how things work. The pressure in the system is common across all 4 wheels.
I'll be shocked if you swap the master and that solves your problem.
You need to confirm your calipers are sticking (and I'll also note this is a separate issue from the mushy pedal). Take the car out late at night or early in the morning, downshift at stop signs etc to avoid using the brakes. Find a nice long stretch of road and drive for a few minutes, then coast to a stop. Measure temps at all 4 corners. There should be relatively little heat in any of them. If they're hot - you need to rebuild the pistons.
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When was the last time the brake fluid was flushed?
What was the condition of the outer dust seal on the brake calipers pistons?
Where the caliper slide pins re-lube, with what product?
[IMG][/IMG]
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BMW CCA Member
For having a garage queen/cream puff car, I think you went way beyond what was needed. I mean, you started out by saying you found a cracked rotor (due to an improperly installed parking brake spring), but then you start replacing lots of other stuff that was not a problem. Now, you have lots of problems, no doubt caused by your proactive parts replacements.
If you fully retract a caliper piston and then install new brake pads, the caliper will easily fit over the edge of the rotor. If it’s a tight fit, that means your piston is not fully retracted.
After you properly install the calipers, the rotors should rotate freely. But once you’ve depressed the brake pedal, and release it, the caliper pistons should retract enough to remove brake pressure, but the rotors will slightly drag in the brake pads. But you should still be able to easily rotate the rotor by hand. If you can’t, your caliper pistons are not retracting enough.
Before you do anything else, get a quart/liter of quality DOT4 brake fluid, siphon as much old fluid out of the reservoir, fill it, then bleed each brake line until clean fluid comes out, and no bubbles. Use the entire quart/liter to do this. And when you bleed them, make sure you’re doing it correctly. The end result should be a firm brake pedal.
After this, go back and start diagnosing any remaining issues. Look for caliper pistons not fully retracting (and check the piston seals for signs of cracks/breakage). Make sure that the calipers can freely move on the guide pins, so the calipers can re-center themselves.
Look for the simple things first. I’ve driven a BMW for nearly 300k miles without ever replacing the master cylinder, brake booster, or any calipers, or pistons. Other than regular brake fluid changes, brake pads and rotors (when worn or warped), and brake lines (cracked with age), nothing major ever failed.
-rb
Member
My guess is the brass guide pins are too tight or not greased so the calipers are not sliding. Also worth checking pistons since new pads are thicker than used so the corroded exposed parts of the piston is now jammed back into the bore.
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I read the troubleshooting section of the Bentley and this is what it says about the booster vs master cylinder which seems to point to the master cylinder. See attached screen shot.
The pedal doesn't go all the way to the floor, but if I mash it, it does go down farther than it should. The abs kicks in a couple inches before the floor - close enough to make me nervous. I assumed there was air in the system somewhere, but unsure because I had already pressure bled all four corners with 3L of fluid. Just kept repeating, test driving to activate the abs. So the fluid was fresh throughout. That was a few months ago before any of this current work was done. I rarely drove, but when I did, it was very short distances at 10-45 mph max.
The order I did things was incremental so I could tell what was doing what. At least that was my approach. Whether I did that all correctly is what I don't know as a 'brake repair novice'. Bear with me as this entire project has been done iin a little at a time, spanned over a month due to waiting for parts that periodically took weeks to arrive. My memory might be off here or there. Someone could call me out if I've jumbled up.
1. ID cracked left rear rotor, determined it was the ebrake shoes dragging and overheated the rotor from the inside out - three large cracks. Fixed that, and put the cracked rotor back on and it spun freely. No change of any parts at that point - and test drove it to heat up the rotors and compare temp to other corners. Seemed like problem was fixed, so I proceeded to the next step of replacing guide pins/bushings, rear rotors and new pads.
Short video showing condition of rear rotor cracks and nicks:
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AnTEZWoF5aH0je5l...w4UMA?e=zEiPBe
2. Existing guide pins did not move as freely as the new ones with the brass bushings, after putting in the new ones, lubed with silicone lubricant (obtained from ECS with bushing kit, specifically for guide pins).
3. Installed new rotor and new/different pads, but could not rotate to see if the rotor would spin freely because of rear wheel drive (was there a way to test that?) Slight movement clockwise/counterclockwise seemed like it wasn't dragging like it was before fixing the ebrake shoe issue, so I thought that it might be ok, and not a sticking piston - jury still out on that at the time. Kept an eye on it. Wouldn't know for sure until a test drive. I did a mini test drive at about 10 mph up and down the block and listened for anything unusual, and only lightly touched the brakes since I was not ready to properly bed the pads. Seemed like everything was good so far. That was my incremental logic there up to this point, right or wrong?
4. Removed caliper to install new guide bushings and pins, reinstalled caliper and bled that corner. I have speed bleeders on all calipers so I could do the job by myself. I do have a pressure bleeder, but have not used it for this project, at least so far. The problem I had getting the bushing is was due to inferior C-clamps that easily bent. I bought ECS's tool kit for installing them, which was clumsy but ultimately worked after I bought a stronger C clamp. Went right in. I checked to make sure the guide pins slid back and forth freely with no deformation of the bore from the installation. Lubed very thoroughly and verified they slid freely still. Everything looking good so far, and then test drove it. Rear rotors were hot, but not like the left rear before fixing the ebrake issue. So, after this test drive, I was thinking uh oh these should not be getting hotter than the fronts, but I figured the new rear pads and rotors might be the cause. At that point, I had not touched the fronts in any way. I did not know for sure if my theory was correct.
5. I proceeded with doing the same changes to the fronts, with the exception of the rotors. New pads and brake lines. Calipers cleaned and inspected. The front right piston seal is the one I saw a nick in, but it didn't appear to go all the way through to cause a leak. So, keeping that in the back of my mind, I decided to let it go and judge by a test drive later once all new parts were installed. Bled all for corners - RR, LR, FR, LR. Did that sequence twice and used two pints of fluid in the process. Fluid was clean as new.
6. Final test drive revealed what I mentioned in my OP. Fronts not nearly as hot as BOTH rears. I will do another test drive as blckstrm suggested above - driving without touching the brakes any more than necessary and checking temps of all four rotors.
I've checked the booster like I was saying earlier - pedal squishes and whooshes until the brakes engage noticeably. A couple years ago, when troubleshooting the booster, I ended up replacing the pedal travel sensor. So that part is relatively new. Pedal rock solid when engine is off, excessive travel/squishy with engine running. There was a slight drop in rpm if I mashed the pedal while sitting still. Not much, but enough that I could hear it. Lightest pressing of the pedal didn't drop the rpm, I think. Going on memory here from two years ago. Currently it still does this though, same as back then. Curiously, from the time the excessive pedal travel started, the more I drove it, the pedal travel improved. The indy shop suggested this would happen, so I assume they were correct since there were no changes in parts, only complete BMW dealer procedure for bleeding, including the clutch. They were confident there was no air in the system. I said, ok we'll see what happens over time.
So if my not-so-good memory is accurate, these are the steps I took and in what order. I've read the other posts and am certainly open to all suggestions and recommendations. I hope this post addressed everything that has been discussed up to this point.
Last edited by trading10; 10-09-2021 at 12:55 AM.
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Thank you blckstrm for clarifying the part about how the system is common across all 4 wheels. When I looked at diagrams of master cylinders, I had to scratch my head to see how the different fluid routes work. I'll revisit the diagrams for better understanding. I thought there were two stages, but it sound like the only thing that is different from the fronts vs the rears is biasing toward the fronts so they do the majority of the braking. I'll stand corrected though if I'm still misunderstanding the way it works.
See my 123456 list of steps in my post above.
Last edited by trading10; 10-09-2021 at 12:25 AM.
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I have found on a couple of Brass Bushing/SS Guide Pin installations that the tolerance of the distance between the center lines of the threaded fastener holes in the caliper attach bracket and the fastener bores of the caliper are quite loose. Meaning that there is little chance the Guide Pins match perfectly in the bores of the Brass Bushings. Once the bushings are installed the caliper no longer ‘floats’ on the (supplied) Guide Pins. I have had to ‘fit’ the Brass Bushings until the calipers easily slide upon the Guide Pins.
I use a large cotter pin with a strip of 150 grit crocus cloth paper strip to create a flapper wheel to sand the bores of the brass bushings to open the bores till the caliper easily glides on the Guide Pins
I chuck the cotter pin in a drill motor and spin it in the bushing bores, test fitting till I get the gliding fit I am happy with.
If the front caliper brass guide pins are too tight of a fit they most likely bind and apply no clamping force causing the rear brakes to do all the braking.
These brass bushings need lubrication and at least annual cleaning.
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 10-09-2021 at 09:37 PM.
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This. Those brass guide pins are rarely plug and play.
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Remove the brass pins. They will cause nothing but trouble on a street car. Creampuff or not.
Remove the speed bleeders. They are very unreliable. I've had them jam on the 2nd use and suck gobs of air. Will not use them.
Pressure bleed is better for purging air than gravity.
Check the backing plates on the rear brakes. Stamping dies wear over time and the plates go oversize causing binding in the caliper mounting arm. I have to file the edges of the pads on almost all my cars these days.
Check the MC by pinning the brake pedal down with a broomstick overnight, Test at a few different positions. The MC should hold brake pressure indefinitely.
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Yes. Brass guides require constant maintenance. Generally, they need to be pulled and cleaned at least twice a year. If not more often.
Also, If the caliper pistons do not compress easily, you need to rebuild your calipers.
2011 M3 Sedan
2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD LBZ
1999 323i GTS2
1995 M3 - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
1990 325is
1989 M3 - S54B32/GS6-37BZ
Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo
Hers: 1989 325iX
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There is a lot here for me to digest, and you can believe it when I say this is all very much appreciated.
Brass Guides: Question - the ECS ones I have use an 0-ring to seal one end and a plastic cap to seal the other end. Looked to me like a well-sealed design that should last years without maintenance. Sure sounds like they are quite the opposite though, and as bluptgm3 pointed out, are too tight without sanding out some material so they don't bind. How do they get dirty anyway? I'm not in love with them and have no issue with putting new stock rubber ones back in there. I'll take function over form any day of the week, and if they are better suited for track cars, I'm fine with that. I only wanted to make improvements where possible for better pedal feel, which is how ECS describes them to be.
Pistons: I have replacement pistons, seals and boots for the rears that I could put in. I'll have to source replacements for the fronts if there are signs of corrosion. If there is corrosion, will it be obvious to the eye? Such as scored cylinder wall or the piston?
Master Cylinder: I went back to the video I watched some time ago, and the explanation was that if there is corrosion in the tip of the MC and you plunge the pedal beyond 80%, the seal can get damaged scrubbing over the corrosion and end up leaking (not implying loss of fluid - the reservoir fluid level does not go down - it has remained constant. I can tell you that when I've pumped the pedal to bleed, I've pressed it down the full 100%, and when it is in that last inch or so of travel that the required amount of foot pressure drops - as if it 'gives way' for lack of a better way to describe it.
Speed Bleeders: I sure hope they don't leak air because I really like the design and the fluid capture bags they include. Thoughtfully designed package. When I have bled them before, I have not seen any bubbles suck back into the caliper through the hose, but if you mean air is sucking back in around the threads, that seems like it would be no different than the stock nipple. I bought some good fluid to flush the system using my pressure bleeder once I'm sure everything else is working perfectly. The cheap fluid from autozone is yellow, and the other fluid is blue so I can tell when it has made it's way throughout the entire system.
Activating the ABS pump to make sure there is no air in there - I used to have software that could do that, but am not sure if it works anymore. That was on my list of possible culprits of air in the system. Seems like a good precaution to take though in addition to everything else being discussed here. Does anyone know of a way to do that factory-style? vs. hard stops or shorting pins in the fuse box. The bmw software would cycle through a number of processes, directing you to press 80%, release, press again, etc, until it completely blew out any trapped air.
Last edited by trading10; 10-09-2021 at 07:36 PM.
Member
i would like to help you but i won't read your walls of text.
if your brakes drag, then they drag. find out why and don't write books on here. Calipers can seize, pistons can, or a combination. If you think it's the master cylinder, open the bleeder valve at the wheel, that way all pressure for that wheel brake is gone, if it still drags it's not the master cylinder.
Check if you did everything correctly. If that doesn't help then at that point you take things apart and diagnose it yourself. Nobody can do that part for you.
Last edited by importbanana; 10-09-2021 at 07:45 PM.
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I actually had good luck with brass guide pins years ago on my 99M3. I forget where I got them but it was not long after they first came out. I did not lube them every year — maybe every other year. But no track. I changed to front and rear Stoptech ST40 for fun. Honestly, they look cool but I noticed no stopping improvement in my street driving. Pads make the biggest change. Dusty, squeaky pads stop best, unfortunately.
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Ya, I really like the immediate response from the front calipers w/Brass Giide Bushings
I real like the feel of the Brass Guide Bushings and OEM Pagid pads.
PF “Z Rated” pads work really well above say, 70 degrees or, after a couple of stops to add some heat.
I find that the OEM pads and the PF “Z Rated” pads offer great initial bite and predictable modulation.
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Ok, I am going to check for binding in those bushings fully assembled in the caliper and bracket. Because they slide very easily without the rubber o-ring installed, I figured this is exactly how they are supposed to be - tight tolerance. I've seen other designs that do not use an o-ring, and slide into the caliper rather than being pressed.
For anyone who is interested - Compare Bimmerworld's vs ECS's. Not the same.
Not sealed slide-in
https://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWo...-Calipers.html
Sealed press-in
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...003326ecs01~a/
"With guide pins constructed of precision ground 304 Stainless Steel and bushings made of C544 bronze, ECS Tuning has crafted these out of materials ideally suited for long-lasting performance. C544 Bronze was selected due to its exceptional durability, wear resistance, and low friction material properties which is complimented by caliper grease lubrication. ECS has incorporated an internal o-ring and durable rubber dust cap to further protect against the elements. This small touch single handedly extends the life of the product by reducing lubricant contamination, which will allow for longer lubricant life, and longer bushing/pin life. To top it off, the bushing OD's are knurled to promote easier installation with a light press fit across a broad range of calipers, maximizing the improvement in braking response, pedal feel and pad wear. Also incorporated in the design is a Spirolox® retaining ring to ensure full retention in the caliper*. ECS Tuning's Performance Caliper Guide Bushings, a small price to pay, for a BIG brake upgrade!"
Last edited by trading10; 10-10-2021 at 02:35 AM.
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I'm seeing more than one brand of speed bleeders. Copies. I bought a set from speedbleeder.com. Is that the ones you found to be jam and suck in air? I can do a pressure bleed just to be on the safe side. Problems with them wasn't on my radar screen.
Would you mind explaining that part about filing the edges of the pads? Is that the tangs of the backing plate you're referring to? If so, what part have you had to file? I had trouble getting the front pads to fit in place, so this piqued my interest. In my case, new Abebonos.
I've done that MC test on another car years ago, and know what you are talking about. What is happening internally though if the pedal does go down overnight?
UPDATE: so far the pedal is holding. I'm using a broom handle as you said, and it's been sitting like that for about 6 hours so far. Also the forum dictator that posted earlier might be relieved to know that all four rotors are spinning freely now. Since I did not make any changes, I think the pads must have seated better after my little test drive on Friday, but until I take it out again, I won't know if the pistons stick. I have replacements for the rears, and have on order a set for the fronts. I might just do them all.
UPDATE 2: 15 hours broom handle pressure and the pedal did not drop at all. So where is the squishy pedal coming from when the engine is running?
Last edited by trading10; 10-11-2021 at 07:17 AM.
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The brass guides I used were not press fit, not sealed and no o-ring, to the extent that makes any difference. I remember when installing them thinking that sealing would have been a good feature but it does not matter if you inspect periodically.
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Makes sense. I paid roughly double what the non-oring type costs. So, there's that too. These were not easy to get in using the ecs tool, but necessary so that the barrel doesn't get deformed. One of mine got nicked inside, and I sanded it out with a light touch using 2000 grit. The nick was my fault trying to pick out the o-ring I test fitted. No biggie. The guide slides like butter. The o-ring is capable of withstanding 600 degrees.
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I liked the oem pads too, and believe it or not, mine lasted from 57k when I bought it in 2004 to 110k mi a little less than three years ago on the original rotors. Dust, yes, but to me, meh. Letting the engine do the work, rev matching shifts, and minimizing stresses on the drive train has made the original parts last a very long time. Still on original clutch at 120 mi. and it has good friction. The oem pads have good initial bite which I like around town, but I understand other pads offer better modulation once heated sufficiently. The ones that come with the powerstop package from rockauto are like that. But the pedal feel is quite a bit different. I got used to them, but as I mentioned in my OP, I just installed Abekono ceramics. When I was researching pads, these had a very high rating for initial bite. So, I am giving them a try. We'll see. I haven't tried those Pagid Z rated pads, so I'm happy to hear your experience. Sounds like they have a great compromise between bite and modulation.
Last edited by trading10; 10-10-2021 at 10:32 PM.
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Wheels are now rotatable by hand, but the rears that got new rotors seem to have enough runout that the pads drag across about 40% of the circumference. I read that these chinese made rotors can have runout that exceeds the OE spec. Something like 0.003 instead of 0.001 or 0.002. Is that enough to cause the rears to heat up too much when I'm off the pedal? Is this normal for new rotors and pads to drag like that? I have been strict about torqueing the lug bolts a little at a time in the correct pattern until reaching the exact OE lbs with the understanding that over tightening can deform the rotor hat and create warpage.
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Ya, what value are you torquing them to?
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About 88lbs all the way around. I couldn't find the spec in the Bentley.
By the way for anyone reading this, I had to edit a previous post where I wrote 'stoptech' when it should have been 'powerstop'. I'm not familiar with the difference in quality, but judging by the prices of stoptech big brake kits, I assume the difference is significant.
While I like the appearance of cross drilled slotted rotors, but I doubt they have any significant benefit on the street, so I'm not at all opposed to switching to a higher quality vented rotor like Brembo UV coated ones. If anyone has a recommendation on rotors, I'm all ears. Function over form to me is the better route and if 88lbs is too much for the chinese ones, maybe I caused the problem of dragging. Sure hope not, but its better to admit wrong-doing up front imho.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=1896&jsn=814
Last edited by trading10; 10-11-2021 at 12:00 AM.
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