Hyde Motor Works Phoenix Engine build.

[Greenday694]

Engine install and up and running. Next the always fun part of finding a tuner.
I did upgrade the upper radiator hose. And I am using the Prototype intake. So far running great, except for the Vanos. More aggressive Cams and heavier Springs, really bums up the volume on the rattle. The anti rattle kit did helped, but I am going to replace the thrust bearings and everything else.

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[Xavier1072]

Hey Keith, will you or HMW be at the Keis show in AC this weekend?

[Jamesons Viggen]

Go through MaxPsi to use Nick G for tuning.

[wgknestrick]

Can you please post a video of your rattle? I have a similar engine build and also noise.

[Greenday694]

I did record it, but unfortunately you really can't hear it that well with all the background noise. At first I thought the timing chain was hitting something. It sounded like the timing chain was hitting a very large empty metal coffee can. A lot of people describe it as marbles rattling around in a coffee can. But with more aggressive cams and stiffer valve springs, it amplifies that sound.
I replaced both thrust bearings washers and spacer in the Vanos. The rattling sound is completely gone.
It really surprised me that the Vanos could make that much racket. With stock cams and Springs, you could just barely hear the rattle.

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[pbonsalb]

Did you start with the 1993 vanos or a later one? Later ones had a “spring clip” or something that the earlier ones did not. In addition to this part you need longer studs. Not sure why BMW added it but maybe it reduced rattle. Certainly rebuilding the vanos also helps. Some of them are loose and you notice right away after rebuilding how much tighter they are, especially when an anti rattle bushing is used.

[Greenday694]

At first I used in 93 set up that only had the thick washer on the front of the sprocket. Then I switch to the 2 thinner washers with the spring plate in the middle and longer shoulder studs. From my 95 engine. I also use the Vanos off of that engine, that did not make any noise with the stock valvetrain set up. That had the anti rattle spacer. It was quieter oh, but I could still hear a little rattle.
That's when I replaced thrust bearings, washers, and anti rattle spacer. But still had to take off .005 to get the play out. Only took off enough so that I can't feel any play, but not so much that it's tight in any way. Spins freely. No more noise.

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[Greenday694]

Well my Vanos repair worked for a little while. Now I'm back to the rattle again at around 2000 RPMs. If I had stock cams and Springs, I most likely would not have a problem.
Any suggestions on a Vanos back can handle my set-up? I've looked at Dr Vanos, but not completely convinced that that will solve the problem. ?

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[spyderg0d]

I have a brand new vanos unit with my build that still hasent got many miles. A few hundred miles ago my vanos became jammed,. Not enough to cause a cel, but due to wear in the camshaft dual vanos gearing the vanos helical gear would catch in the slight slop of the cam side and sieze the gear during movement. So my vanos would belate activation and retraction. This also gave me a vanos rattle of the gear literally bouncing in the gear slop instead of the usual rattle on the shaft. Something to possibly inspect for.
Also, it's possible you have a bung lifter. After a couple dead lifters swapped, I stillllll have one that comes and goes when it wants with noise.

- - - Updated - - -

Also. Slightly out of time engine can cause rattling as if dead lifters or vanos rattle. I've had many DIY guys come to me with "pings" and "rattles" after head swaps to find exhaust sprockets off a few degrees(and thus intake and vanos as well) that cause such noises and only minor drivability probs for inexperienced to notice.

[Greenday694]

Dr. Vanos stage 2 Kit. Problem solved.

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[Greenday694]

Yesterday I had to replace the rear diff bushings again. The ones from ECS, was allowing the diff to move forward and backwards about five millimeter. This time I installed powerflex. Hopefully that holds everything in place. Also replaced O2 sensors for my dual wideband. Now it is officially ready for the dyno.
I will have to upgrade the shifting linkage again before I go on the track. I did refresh everything couple years ago. But little by little the bushings are getting some play in them. Now is a little tricky going into 3rd gear. I think this time I'm going to take all of the measurements and make my own shifter and shift linkage. Using wider brass bushings.

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[MisterM52]

Part 3 has was uploaded a bit late and has been out for a few days now.




Tuning is going to be taken care of by Kassel Performance in Pensylvenia.
Link: https://www.kasselperformance.com

[Greenday694]

Well I'm back. Looking for a good set of s52 cams. Apparently the Schrick cams I bought will not play nice with the supercharger. So I am selling them, and looking to buy s52 cams.

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[pbonsalb]

I think people with positive displacement superchargers have run schricks before. Maybe the problem is the tuning. I would have used McCoy at TRM since he has tuned the most PD superchargers on these motors. I would also have contacted Tanks95 to see who he used for tuning since he has a larger displacement PD supercharger. From my reading over the years, PD superchargers seem to be a pain to tune, harder than NA, centrifugals or turbos.

But if S52 cams will get you sorted out easily, then that is a reasonable way to go. You will leave some performance on the table but not a massive amount.

[Greenday694]

I had Jim at Kassel performance take care of the tuning. At first we thought something was hanging up in the Vanos. It was running as if the Vanos was always on, intake cam advance. Switch off the VVT, and even unplugged the Vanos Solenoid. That led to losing about 15 foot pounds of torque. But still did not produce any more horsepower on the top end.
My experience with turning positive displacement supercharger, you typically want more lift and duration on the exhaust side, and very little overlap. These cams are basically the complete opposite. I'm sure they work very well na, and would help spool a turbo faster.
And I am curious how the engine would respond with s52 cams. I'm looking at the specs, they also have higher lift and duration on the intake side compared to the exhaust. So most likely I would have to degree those cams as well.

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[pbonsalb]

If the Schricks are still installed, check with perry hubbling to see if he has any specs and 3D printed timing blocks for Schricks with a positive displacement supercharger. I know the theory on cams for forced induction (little overlap, focus on exhaust), but in practice, the theory does not always play out. Kassel has a good reputation but maybe little experience with pd blowers and Schricks on these motors.

[digger]

As above should be no issues with those cams its not a SOHC (not even a real problem with SOHC) just move the installed centrelines

[5mall5nail5]

I can't imagine the schricks are so aggressive that the overlap cannot be adjusted for

[Greenday694]

The cams are still installed and I retarded the intake cam 3 degrees. Made a big difference on the top end. I might go back 2 or 3 more degrees and see what that does. Or I might Advance the exhaust 2 degrees. Or some combination of the two.
Jim and Mat at Kassel did an awesome job, and went way above what I expected. The car starts and runs flawlessly, considering my unique build. Once I get the cam timing close, I will take the car back to them to retune.

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[GG///M3]

The cams are still installed and I retarded the intake cam 3 degrees. Made a big difference on the top end. I might go back 2 or 3 more degrees and see what that does. Or I might Advance the exhaust 2 degrees. Or some combination of the two.
Jim and Mat at Kassel did an awesome job, and went way above what I expected. The car starts and runs flawlessly, considering my unique build. Once I get the cam timing close, I will take the car back to them to retune.

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Great to see you getting this tuned

[Greenday694]

I totally agree John. It was well worth the drive. Left my house about 4:30 in the morning to get there on time. Trying to beat the am Rush Hour.
They did such a good job, and the car made so much low end torque, I snapped off the front differential bushing Bolt. I just put those powerflex bushings and bolts in about 3 weeks prior. So they were not worn out. I upgraded to 12.9 grade, 16 mm bolt. I'll see how that holds up?

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[GG///M3]

I totally agree John. It was well worth the drive. Left my house about 4:30 in the morning to get there on time. Trying to beat the am Rush Hour.
They did such a good job, and the car made so much low end torque, I snapped off the front differential bushing Bolt. I just put those powerflex bushings and bolts in about 3 weeks prior. So they were not worn out. I upgraded to 12.9 grade, 16 mm bolt. I'll see how that holds up?

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Get the Max Psi bolt mod or the AA one

[pbonsalb]

Weld on MaxPsi brace takes care of the problem. Next thing you break will be a stock driveshaft or 188 diff output stub whether 328 or M3 axle size.

[Greenday694]

Went to Atco Raceway Friday night , doing some tuning on my friends supercharged fox body Mustang . The car is a beast . Slight problem with front tires coming off the ground . I've decided to run my car . Got caught up in the moment . But I knew not to launch hard .
The water box was wet from side to side , so I couldn't go around it. Rolled through and about 50% throttle to dry the tires. I staged, and just before the green light, I eased up on the clutch, gave it about 5% throttle. Once the clutch was fully engaged, about 1500 RPMs, I bumped it up to about 40%. Tires went up in smoke. So shift it to Second, once the clutch was fully engaged I went to about 60% throttle. Tires went up in smoke again for about a second. Then a loud bang and no G forces. Limped it to the end of the track and a mind-blowing 25 seconds and 37 miles per hour. LOL
I completely blew apart the right side inner CV joint, and broke the left side rear mounting ear on the differential cover. 16 mm bolt in the front held up just fine.
Looking at options. Install reinforced rear differential cover, with better axles? Considering driveshaft shop axles, but $1,200 with only a one-year warranty doesn't seem very smart for a car that might only see 500 miles a year. And of course there's always the question if my 188 differential, will last?
Which leads to the next option. Upgrade to the 210 mm? Which I believe I would have to change the rear subframe, trailing arms, and drive shaft again. And would be stuck with an even higher gear ratio. The 3 15 I have now are too high. 293 would be better.
Option three is some combination of the first two.?


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[pbonsalb]

If you broke an M3 diff output stub, you will continue to break them and they aren’t fun to remove. If it was the smaller non-M stub you might get more out of the M stubs. 25 year old axles have soup for grease now. The M3 axles if in good shape (regreased) are pretty strong; the non-M not as strong. Do you have a stock driveshaft? That will break also. Not cheap sorting the car out to handle the power.