Hyde Motor Works Phoenix Engine build.

[Greenday694]

Right now it has the stock 315 lsd, non m3. New aftermarket replacement axles. Probably not as good as OEM.
Think I'm going to keep the differential, replace the cover and add reinforcement plate across the cover. Still not sure about axles? I could get driveshaft shop M3 axles, and replace my trailing arms. At least if I did it that way, my e-brake would work again. Still have the E46 330i rear brakes.

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[pbonsalb]

If you buy fancy axles at get M3 spec so they will mate up to a 210 diff if you keep breaking ears on the 188. On Facebook I have seen 1 or2 others offering axles but don’t know the cost comparison.

[Greenday694]

I figure I'll do a little update. I decided to keep the stock differential for now. I did add a reinforcement plate on the back. I installed M3 trailing arms ( everything new ) output stubs, rebuilt M3 axles. I'm also installing. 5 mm spacers on the axles. Since my car is lowered a little and I have a little more negative camber, it is pulling the axles a little further than they should be. Just trying to keep the CV joints in their happy place.
I also installed a set of VAC Motorsports supercharger cams. 264/270 duration. And the new SR1 intake manifold , with the new aluminum M1V2 discharge pan prototype.
Next up , back to Kassel performance. Weather permitting?


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[Greenday694]

Upgrade

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[pbonsalb]

I am curious how you like the cams. That spec is slightly more aggressive than the 264/256 Schricks and less aggressive than the 276/270 Schricks.

On the axle spacers, where do they go? If they are just wheel spacers, how do they move the axles out as opposed to just moving the wheels out?

[Greenday694]

So far the cans are very good. A very noticeable increase in power at high RPMs. Without losing any low and torque. The power was kind of flat with the previous cams. The dyno results showed this.
After really examining the dyno results and performing a few tests on my own, I came to some conclusions.
The Boost gradually climbed up to a little over 4,000 RPMs. And where typically the horsepower will increase above the torque output, in my case it did not. But the manifold pressure jumped from 14 to 18 PSI. After checking, I do not have very much back pressure on the exhaust side.
Advancing the exhaust cam 2 degrees made the biggest difference of any of the changes I made.
Past experiences of building big displacement V8 with 6v71 and 8 V 71 superchargers, I learned that they respond very well to reverse pattern cams. Higher exhaust duration as compared to intake. Ideally you want to get the exhaust out as quickly and easily as possible. Zoomie headers would be ideal. Though not very practical on my BMW.
So once I found these cams from vac Motorsports, I knew this was more of what I was looking for. 268/272 would be better, but I believe these will work just fine.
The spacer plates go in between the axles and the output flanges. They come with slightly longer Bolt. Not sure if I like the idea of the longer bolts, but I'm going to give them a try.

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[Greenday694]

This is with the 5 mm spacers and longer bolts.

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[pbonsalb]

And you wanted those because the axles were popping out out of the diff? A few of us have experienced that with the 188mm diff. I have been running a 210mm since around 2014 and no issues.

[Greenday694]

No I have not had any of those problems. Maybe because I do have new clips in the differential when I did the seals.
But I did notice that with the rear suspension collapsed within a few millimeters of the bump stops, and 1.2 degrees of negative camber, that the inner CV joints were pulled out to their limits. Without the rear springs, and moving the suspension it's full travel up and down, the inner CV joint would only go in to the center of the CV joint housing.
After close the examination of broken inner CV joint I realized that the joint itself did not completely fail. It over extended and spit the balls out of the and cover that holds the boot on. I believe when that happened, it shoved the differential over and broke the rear mounting ear on the opposite side. Although it could have been the complete opposite. The rear mounting ear could have broken first, allowing the differential to shift over causing the inner CV joint to overextend itself out of its normal operating range?
Either way I did reinforce the rear cover, and upgrade the axles. The 210 differential is definitely in the future. But I have a feeling the ZF gearbox is going to have problems next.

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[pbonsalb]

I’d go with the rear diff ear breaking first, but like you write it could be either first. People have been lowering these cars and modding the suspension with more negative camber for 20 years without axle problems.

[Greenday694]

Not really too many things going on with the car right now. I did add a little safety insurance. Just to help keep everything together at higher RPMs when I might get some strange harmonics.

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[Greenday694]

On the fun side of things. I went to the Delaware Valley BMW CCA event at New Jersey Motorsport Park.
Towards the end of Saturday, my power steering pump started going. Scrambled around Saturday night to find one. Sunday morning bright and early installed it. Made it back to the track just before lunch. Had a couple more sessions, and then a weld broke on my prototype collection pan. Bad vacuum / boost leak ended my day.
It was not a design problem. The problem was my lack of experience TIG welding aluminum.
Other than that it was a great weekend. My instructor was awesome. This was the first time I had an instructor in the car with me every time I went out on the track. Gave me some very direct and extremely helpful instructions on every part of the track. I honestly think I learned more about driving in those two days then in the 40 plus years I've been driving. So much so that he signed off for me to move up to the intermediate group.
As well as also the first time I got to use Point bypassing. Instead of the typical lead follow format I've been to before. Still need to learn quite a bit more and really practice what I have learned already. One of the techniques he taught me was lift turning. Just lifting the throttle briefly as you turn in, really surprised me at how much of a difference it made and keeping the car very well settled but still change direction very quickly. Just came and really handy with the two three four combination. Turn two and three are both right hand very close together. Then barely enough time to get going straight before the left hand turned four.
I could go on and on about all the other things I learned like late apexing compared to early, and so many other things. But I won't.
The car way exceeded my expectations. The Hawk ht10 pads were phenomenal. Extremely predictable and zero fade. The suspension worked flawlessly. If it wasn't for the few mechanical problems, it would have been a perfect weekend.

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[bubela]

Very cool! Looks like a fun build, car and project.

[Greenday694]

Well I decided to turn things up a little bit. I installed the 2.3 l TVS. Not really sure how much boost I'm running right now, because my boost gauge only goes up to 20 psi. So instead of just buying a better boost gauge I picked up the link can gauge. Waiting for a free minute so I can install it and set up the can configuration.

I'm back to researching my next manual transmission. I definitely want a 6-speed. And as I've already been told and pretty much already knew, the 420g cannot handle a lot of torque. I have received an alternative recommendation, the ZF 6-speed,GS6 37BZ. It's commonly found in the 330 zhp and a few others. And apparently from the ZF website, was also used behind the diesel engines. Which is encouraging to know it can handle quite a bit of torque. I'm posting this in here to see if anybody else has any experience with this transmission, and what I might need to make the swap if I chose to.?

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[pbonsalb]

GS6-37 handles 370 NM. GS5-63 is rated for 530 NM and was used on the F10 M5 so it can take more but is a little less direct fit since it was never behind an M/S 5x motor.

[R.Thomas]

I had considered the GS6-37 swap for my turbo E36. After months of searching for a decent transmission, I ended up just getting a GS6-53 and will go that route. It was too difficult to find a GS6-37 and the ones that were available were overpriced. Also, from my research the GS6-37 out of the later E90's is different than the E46 330i / E60 530i / E85 Z4 so I was concerned about future availability and fitment.

Even if you find a good GS6-37 at a good price, you'll still need the clutch assembly (a combination of E36 / E46 parts), driveshaft, shifter carrier (unless you have a chassis-mount shifter), and trans mount.

Here's a link to a recent thread concerning the GS6-37 swap and some "pitfalls".

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...s-and-pitfalls

[m3j0n]

If the Schricks are still installed, check with perry hubbling to see if he has any specs and 3D printed timing blocks for Schricks with a positive displacement supercharger. I know the theory on cams for forced induction (little overlap, focus on exhaust), but in practice, the theory does not always play out. Kassel has a good reputation but maybe little experience with pd blowers and Schricks on these motors.

I dont know if it is of any help, but I had a cam installed with my active twin screw. I believe the schrick intake cam is a different profile than stock, but the shrick exhaust cam was an exact copy of the factory exhaust profile (its been years since I built the car, so it may be reversed). Mike at TRM did the tuning and I put down 400rwhp and 396rwtq.

[Greenday694]

Well a little updated on things that I've learned. Number one, the Dr Vanos stage 2 kit, doesn't like my stiffer valve springs and more aggressive cams. It was very quiet at first. Now I have the Vanos rattle again.
Problem number two, right after installing the ATI damper, I noticed a very distinct rattling noise slightly above 4,000 RPMs only on deceleration? Doesn't matter if I'm driving or free revving. If I stay above that point no noise. If I shift before, same thing no noise.
On the plus side I picked up the aaf brake duct kit. Since track season is upon us again. Thought it would be a good idea to keep the brakes cool and the wheel bearings.
Going to keep the five-speed for now. Hopefully my European connection comes through with a large case 293 LSD.


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[andrewgordnier]

Number one, the Dr Vanos stage 2 kit, doesn't like my stiffer valve springs and more aggressive cams. It was very quiet at first. Now I have the Vanos rattle again.

To my (admittedly very limited) knowledge, when running a high duration cam you need to shim the vanos to limit it because the 15 degrees of intake advance can cause issues either with interference or the vanos itself. I know vac motorsports sells a kit to do exactly that

[Greenday694]

Regrettably I eliminated the vanos. I bought the vanos elimination kit, gutted one of my old Vanoss units and put it on there. I did drive the car a few days with the vanos turned off, didn't notice a big lost low end power. Obviously vanos rattle is gone.
But I still have a very noticeable rattling noise around 4,000 RPMs on deceleration or free revving.
Because I had a bad injector or 2 my last track day, that was diluting my oil, I dropped the subframe and the pan to check rod and main bearings. And since I had a set of bearings already sized for the engine, I threw the new ones in. Didn't solve anything.
So I removed the valve cover for about the 100th time, checking everything, and even installed my old secondary chain, sprockets, guide, and tensioner. Once again, made absolutely no difference.
It just does not make any sense. I can bounce off of the 8,500 RPM rev limiter, and the engine does not skip a beat.
It's a good thing I'm going back to this thread. Because I realize the noise appeared after I installed the ATI damper?


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[Greenday694]

FYI, the old rod bearings and main bearings looked perfect.

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[GG///M3]

8,500rpm? Are you still running the blower setup?


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[Greenday694]

8,500rpm? Are you still running the blower setup?


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Yes. But the cams are only good up to about 7,500. The high rev limit was because I was running out of gear on the track. Now the 293 is in, so I will most likely lower the rev limit.

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[bluptgm3]

Because I realize the noise appeared after I installed the ATI damper?

Who supplied the damper?

[Greenday694]

Vac

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