Hello everybody. I figured I would post my new engine build here in the forced induction section.
I chose the name Phoenix for the engine because this is the original engine from the car, that broke a piston from too much boost and not enough ring Gap and 258k original miles. My car is a 93 325is.
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So far I have the head together. The head was cleaned, check, and I installed Super Tech valve springs, retainers, keepers and ferrea valves.
Also have Schrick 264 / 256 cams.
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Last edited by Greenday694; 05-10-2021 at 08:20 PM.
I'm using the M54b30 crank, cut and Polished - .25mm
CP 84.5mm 9:1 pistons, Eagle rods arp head studs, main studs, Rod Bolt.
Block was hot Tanked, decked, bore and hone, line bore mains. Machine shop took .006 off of the head to make it flat and straight.
I will be picking up the block tomorrow from D&F performance in Berlin New Jersey. Excellent machine shop and engine builder, that's been in business since the mid 70s.
I plan on initially running the car and getting it tuned by Ace performance systems, using the Eaton m122 H supercharger that I've been using. It's good for 16 PSI boost easily. Then I will upgrade to the 2.3L TVS.
The budget built 3 lm50 I am been running for the last three years is still running very strong. But I know the stock M54b30 rods and pistons can only take so much.
I plan on uploading and documenting the entire engine build here.
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Any pron shots of the finished (or in process) CUT crankshaft ?
Picked it up last night, it was raining so I left it in the back of my Explorer. Took a few shots when I got home.
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So far I cleaned and painted the block. Made sure all the oil passages and drains were clean.
Then started installing the crank.
Machine shop did size the bearings, but I still plastigage them anyway. Plastigage is not the greatest, but at least I know everything is close to where it should be.
Acl recommends .00226 - .00285 on the mains. All of mine are more towards the low side. It's what I asked for , so I can run a little thinner oil.
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Had a quick lunch, and decided these rings are not going to Gap themselves. It's a slow process if you do it right. With my 84.5 mm bore, CP recommends .018 for to top, and .024 for the 2nd. Before grinding, the top Rings were 11 to 12. That definitely would not work. I took him down till the feeler gauge went very easily through the gap. So it's probably more like .0182. Rather stay a little on the safe side. Don't want a repeat of before.
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Okay, after carefully fighting with those circlips, the rest went together fairly easy. The oil clearances on the rod bearings were dead on. D&F performance did a great job.
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Still have to modify the windage tray. To clear the longer stroke. I will probably do it the same way I did the others. Just bend it so that it clears. I know the other way is to cut pieces out of it. But I kind of think that defeats the purpose of having it if you have a bunch of holes.?
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Looking good. Thanks for sharing.
BMWHUB,cvm
The windage tray should be the same as the s52. Curious why you need to modify it? I notched the ends because of running studs instead of bolts, but had no other clearance issues.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...060&series=E36
The ARP Rod bolts hit the windage tray. And I think the ribs on the rod cap were also hitting.
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I took 2 windage trays, cut the section that was hitting and welded in a section from the other that doesn't hit. Has worked very well so far.
Sub'd.
E36 M3 journal https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-Build-Journal
F80 M3 journal https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1734421
Miata K24 build https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...ine-up-105885/
Here is an updated picture with the head on, cams installed, and timing set. I soaked the new lifters for a couple days. Set the crank about 60 degrees before top dead center, to make sure none of the Pistons are not anywhere near the top. So I can rotate the cams without any possibility of bending the new valves.
Once the cam locks are in place, I assembled the timing chain and sprocket assemblies. Once I was sure everything was close to where it had to be, I worked on installing the double helix gear on the Vanos unit. Making sure it drops in as soon as I rotate the secondary chain. Took about two or three shots to get it. Rotated the engine over then we checked the timing. Dead on. Then installed the primary chain tensioner.
Took the engine over to my car, and transferred a few sensors from the old engine. All of them have been replaced in the last few years. Some I've been replaced a few times trying to find genuine Bosch Parts. Install the engine on the new front subframe, installed my dkm twin disc clutch, transmission and starter. Then lower the car back onto the front subframe and installed 4 new bolts. A few more things to button up with my new fueling system and a few other upgrades. Hopefully we'll be firing it up this weekend.
I reinforced the rear trailing arm pockets and a few other chassis reinforcements. I'm at also installing a Kirk racing 4 point roll bar, semi racing seats, and SLR Roll center correction kit. Saw some questionable metal brake lines, so I replaced them all.
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Hello everyone, we are doing a small video log of the build. I will post them here every other week. enjoy!
"So we've come to the conclusion that BMW just has parts laying around they decide to throw on cars for no reason."
Interest on a Very Budget Supercharger Build??
So, what happens when it doesn't make 1200?
I agree it’s a lofty goal for a 2.3L TVS blower on a 3.0L six.
We are building the engine to be capable of 1200HP. No one said a TVS 2.3L will get you 1200HP.
But you will see what have in store with this engine, in years to come, a lot of things are possible with time and 5L Twin Screw blowers.
"So we've come to the conclusion that BMW just has parts laying around they decide to throw on cars for no reason."
Interest on a Very Budget Supercharger Build??
It is rare to see a blower with more displacement than the engine it is mounted to. Can’t think of any.
Part 2 has been out for a few days,
"So we've come to the conclusion that BMW just has parts laying around they decide to throw on cars for no reason."
Interest on a Very Budget Supercharger Build??
I like to clarify something. This building is not about creating a beast. It's about taming a beast. I personally do not care about Peak power numbers on a dyno. They are useless on the street and the track.
My goal is smooth linear power. I don't want 1200 horsepower at 8000 RPMs, if I only have 100 horsepower at at 4000 RPMs. Bit of an exaggeration I know.
Will I hit 1200 horsepower this way? Maybe not. I built an engine to be able to withstand that power level. 900 is more realistic, and maintain more than enough power below the Curve.
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I don’t think 900 rwhp is realistic from a belt driven positive displacement supercharger on a 3.0L motor, but look forward to reading about your progress.
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