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Thread: Ford 8.8 rear swaps?

  1. #1
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    Ford 8.8 rear swaps?

    I have an E46 M3 rear right now and I hate the ratio. Getting a new ratio and everything to put it in will cost $5k. Which is just a tiny bit too much. I see a kit for a ford 8.8 kit but it's also about as expensive as just doing the upgrade to the stock diff. Anyone else doin a similar swap or have options to more easily swap gear ratios? I don't want a winters.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  2. #2
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    The advantage to the ford is that you have a ton off ratios available, and even R&P Sets are cheap. You could set up 3-4 diffs and lug them around to different tracks. (Chelsea used to do that with bmw diffs). If you travel, the ability to change ratios per track is a HUGE advantage. Id venture to say that with all the different parts and stuff we upgraded on Josh's cars, the QC was by far the most useful.

    Damn, 6k for the SLG 8.8 conversion kit, but it does come with everything.

    A RTS800 is $3k, a Bink Sub is $2k, and WF axles are $1600, but is it a lot of work to get it installed and if you're doing a lot of street probably not ideal.

    If it were me, I'd say do the 210 build if you're only ever driving the same track (or couple) and have worked out what ratio would be best. The 8.8 if traveling around but still streeting or doing grassroots only stuff. QC if traveling for competition at all.

  3. #3
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    Most of my tracks will be limited enough that I'm not going to go that ham with ratios. The problem is that how can I pick a ratio without trying it out? From the stock 3.62, I THINK a 4.33 would be good. Maybe a 4.10. Basically, I bog in a straight line in 4th. I'd like to make most things a 3-4 shift. Right now I do low speed in second and am tapping out third on higher speed (60+mph entries). If I had confidence in which gear was good, I'd probably just build it myself.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  4. #4
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    4.10 is $1300... next size up is a 4.45 at $3600..... just for the ring and pinions. Like WTF?

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    Most of my tracks will be limited enough that I'm not going to go that ham with ratios. The problem is that how can I pick a ratio without trying it out? From the stock 3.62, I THINK a 4.33 would be good. Maybe a 4.10. Basically, I bog in a straight line in 4th. I'd like to make most things a 3-4 shift. Right now I do low speed in second and am tapping out third on higher speed (60+mph entries). If I had confidence in which gear was good, I'd probably just build it myself.
    Don't you play Assetto? I don't, so I don't know the specifics of how, but that is how Josh picks his gearing before we go to each track. Sometimes its a hair off and we end up changing one step either way but its an excellent way to find a ballpark.

    yep, and 8.8 R&P Sets are $200 all day and available all over.
    Last edited by Novablue454; 04-29-2021 at 03:47 PM.

  6. #6
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    My one experience with Seems Legit Garage was poor. Extremely bad customer service, rude even.

    6THOUSAND dollars for less than 2 grand of parts some welding and a junkyard 8.8 ford, hard pass. As a point of reference, they make similar kits for RX-7s that cost about 1200$ minus the junkyard diff/driveshaft. You could buy yourself all the parts, a spare subframe, a decent welder, and still have tons of cash to spare compared to that kit. Then you cold take the knowlede you've learnt on forums form others to sell 6000 diff packages. #greed

    IMO theres 3 options all require 330 trailing arms:
    - Pay the aforementioned clowns 6 grand for a used diff and some custom work that was already well documented. They probably had to do next to no R&D? (bad option)
    - 8.8 with driveshaft shop stub shafts, 930 CV jouints, custom driveshaft custom length axles, modified subframe. You can save yourself the running around and buy the gforce 8.8 swap axles, its already done, but they start at $1500 and are $2k for the outlaw ones.
    - 8.8 with mix and match oem stuff, modified subframe, custom driveshaft and custom axles. Probably the cheapest option, though it might take time to get everything together, less thana grand maybe. Axles are the most expensive part as they are custom

    For the drivehaft you can have the stock one modified(quiet on highway) or switch to a one piece. If going one piece certain ford truck axles (rear crew cab 4x4) are the right length (slip shaft design) and can be had for next to nothing. Just need a 1350 flange driveshaft adapter for the transmission ($60-199).

    Axles can be bought here: https://www.rcvperformance.com/indep...custom-builder
    Stub axles here: https://www.driveshaftshop.com/domes...spline-is-300m
    Last edited by M0nk3y134d3r; 04-30-2021 at 06:01 AM.

  7. #7
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    Lol I do play assetto and I'm still trying to make a car that feels like my real life car. I mod too much and wind up with an unrealistic ca. I need to find a car with the same power band and all that as my car. Probably worth figuring it out.

    I HAVE a welder, I'm just a monkey that can glue 2 things together. Fabbing a full 8.8 swap sounds beyond my ability. But, if there was an idiot proof weld in kit, I don't mind playing with some custom axles. Custom length axle shafts with proper spline counts don't sound too bad. I can keep my M3 hubs and match them to the ford axle cups.

    Still. sticking with the M3 rear is enticing. 4.1 would be $1300 and a custom LSD center section would be another $2k. The 8.8 swap looks like it would be more than that just in materials. But I doubt I would swap gears once I figured out what I needed.

    decisions...

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by M0nk3y134d3r View Post
    My one experience with Seems Legit Garage was poor. Extremely bad customer service, rude even.

    6THOUSAND dollars for less than 2 grand of parts some welding and a junkyard 8.8 ford, hard pass. As a point of reference, they make similar kits for RX-7s that cost about 1200$ minus the junkyard diff/driveshaft. You could buy yourself all the parts, a spare subframe, a decent welder, and still have tons of cash to spare compared to that kit. Then you cold take the knowlede you've learnt on forums form others to sell 6000 diff packages. #greed

    IMO theres 3 options all require 330 trailing arms:
    - Pay the aforementioned clowns 6 grand for a used diff and some custom work that was already well documented. They probably had to do next to no R&D? (bad option)
    - 8.8 with driveshaft shop stub shafts, 930 CV jouints, custom driveshaft custom length axles, modified subframe. You can save yourself the running around and buy the gforce 8.8 swap axles, its already done, but they start at $1500 and are $2k for the outlaw ones.
    - 8.8 with mix and match oem stuff, modified subframe, custom driveshaft and custom axles. Probably the cheapest option, though it might take time to get everything together, less thana grand maybe. Axles are the most expensive part as they are custom

    For the drivehaft you can have the stock one modified(quiet on highway) or switch to a one piece. If going one piece certain ford truck axles (rear crew cab 4x4) are the right length (slip shaft design) and can be had for next to nothing. Just need a 1350 flange driveshaft adapter for the transmission ($60-199).

    Axles can be bought here: https://www.rcvperformance.com/indep...custom-builder
    Stub axles here: https://www.driveshaftshop.com/domes...spline-is-300m
    weird, my dealings with them have been fine so far and their DC kits work great.

    you forgot the cost of a plasma table, cad software, tube bender, etc. Its not a "junkyard" diff either, they're rebuilt with a new LSD. But the price is still somwhat high. I just paid $2200 to have my core subframe converted to hang a Winters, $1600 for axles, ~$200 for bushings, and ~$400 for a driveshaft. Thow in a little for the powdercoat on the subframe and its an easy $4500 kit. They're just charging a lot for the diff itself ($1850 w/ no core) and at that point might as well spend the extra $1000 on a RTS800 and have a MUCH better setup.

    Still, as I said before, the cost isn't justified when comparing to a winters, and also their subframe is totally illegal for anything above pro am (and some proams depending on what rules they go by)

  9. #9
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    Think I'm just gonna ditch the T56 for a CD009. Sounds simpler than a rear end swap

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  10. #10
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    gross, shitty syncros and sketchy adapter kits, no thanks

  11. #11
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    Hey Guys, I not spend much time here in the drift area, but this topic caught my eye.
    I race an E30 and am intrigued by these rear end swaps.
    Have any of you heard of anyone doing either the Ford swap or the Winters swap into an E30?

    As for the Tremec trans swap, I run a GForce built straight gear, dog ring T5 in my car and its a very real race trans for way less $ than most other race transmissions.
    If you can get GForce (or someone similar) to build you a T56 with dog rings and then install a S1 sequential shifter,,, that would be a great combination.
    jimmy p.


    88 E30 M3 Zinnoberot - street
    88 E30 M3 Lachsilber - SCCA SPU
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Novablue454 View Post
    gross, shitty syncros and sketchy adapter kits, no thanks
    Oh? I haven't seen any issues with those. The adapter I found looked solid.

    Quote Originally Posted by jimmypet View Post
    Hey Guys, I not spend much time here in the drift area, but this topic caught my eye.
    I race an E30 and am intrigued by these rear end swaps.
    Have any of you heard of anyone doing either the Ford swap or the Winters swap into an E30?

    As for the Tremec trans swap, I run a GForce built straight gear, dog ring T5 in my car and its a very real race trans for way less $ than most other race transmissions.
    If you can get GForce (or someone similar) to build you a T56 with dog rings and then install a S1 sequential shifter,,, that would be a great combination.
    I've seen winters swaps in E30s. I think packaging tends to be an issue since the E30 trailing arms are so large. I haven't seen a ford 8.8 swap but it really shouldn't be anymore complex. But E30 diff ratios are pretty plentiful, why would you want to change?

    I thought about a dog box. I think you can get any ratios you want. The CD009 swap to me looks like $3-4k all said and done. Including 0 mile trans. Maybe I should just look into changing the trans gears in the T56. I didn't think it was commonly done.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    I've seen winters swaps in E30s. I think packaging tends to be an issue since the E30 trailing arms are so large. I haven't seen a ford 8.8 swap but it really shouldn't be anymore complex. But E30 diff ratios are pretty plentiful, why would you want to change?

    I thought about a dog box. I think you can get any ratios you want. The CD009 swap to me looks like $3-4k all said and done. Including 0 mile trans. Maybe I should just look into changing the trans gears in the T56. I didn't think it was commonly done.
    The Winters idea is attractive because of the speed & ease of ratio changes.
    The 8.8 is less attractive because its more like the stock Med Case diff, just less expensive gear sets. I would be curious as to an 8.8 weight vs Med case.

    The Tremec ratios are not as wide open and plentiful as say the 4 speed boxes (T101 or G5R style). Those can literally have any ratio in any location.
    With the T5 and T56 options you are limited to what the aftermarket has made. GForce had a few options with my T5 build, not alot.
    I never looked too hard at the T56 because it was too big and heavy for an E30. The T5 physically fit the bill much better in an E30 tunnel and weight wise replacing a G265.
    jimmy p.


    88 E30 M3 Zinnoberot - street
    88 E30 M3 Lachsilber - SCCA SPU
    87 E30 M3 Prodrive British Touring Car 2.0 Litre
    04 Ford F350 - V10
    06 Audi A3 Brilliant Red / 2.0 / DSG

  14. #14
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    Making me think of bad things. ugh...

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  15. #15
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    No one has mentioned the 22RPD kit. I haven't priced out the whole package but this is another option.

    Super Ford 8.8 Subframe Kit - 22RPD


  16. #16
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    It doesn't say if it's E36 or E46 but damn that's up my alley. They only sell E36 axles though. I guess that doesn't matter.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by protomor View Post
    It doesn't say if it's E36 or E46 but damn that's up my alley.
    Whoops. Sorry. Missed that part. It's E36.

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