Hey guys,
I got this issue where the Passenger rear tire is rubbing on the fender on small bumps and when turning. Driver side rear has no issues, fronts are fine its just that damn passenger rear.
It looks like it sags an 1/2 inch lower than the driver side..
Did a full suspension refresh a year ago, added Koni shocks/ Inserts with H&R Sport Springs w/ Avg Low 1.2"F 1.0"R drop.
Switch the rear tires (directional) around for a quick check. Still rubs.
Gonna check the shock mounts tomorrow but am 95% sure there is no issues there..
Tires while car in being restored- Riken Raptor ZR 17in on stock Staggered contours
My question is, htf do I remedy this situation?
Not looking to roll fenders. Should I just buy Rear H&R OE Sport springs?
Oh good, im not alone.. Had a feeling I messed something up on my suspension install..
Thats a good idea that I should probably try next.. super fat spring pad on both ends huh
Another reason why coilovers and adjustable rear spring perches are a better solution than lowering springs. With lowering springs, whatever the tide height ends up with is what you get. If it’s wrong (too much or too little), there aren’t many options to fix it.
-rb
Something is weird here.
I have 17x9 et30 ARC-8s that sometimes rub the passenger rear. But that's... 11+ ~6= 17mm more outboard than stock contours (should be 17x8.5 et41).
No way should the factory wheel be rubbing unless you're running something wider (a lot wider) than 245/40.
Check your alignment, and check to see if your ball joints are toast. Most of them are if they've never been replaced. Something isn't right.
My question is where does it rub? It’s possible you bent something.
No matter where you go, there you are...
I have GC coilovers and I noticed that the passenger side DOES drop lower. I used calipers to measure the height of the perch and I have to jack up the passenger side quite a bit to get equal heights.....doubt the weight of the battery would be the reason?
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
Damaged rear control arm, shock tower rusted through, RTAB pocket broken, spring popped out or missing or unequal rubber spring seat, rear alignment does not have enough negative camber, incorrect tire sidewall line 245/45 instead of 245/40, etc.
And crickets from the OP...
No matter where you go, there you are...
Sorry got tied up with bs nonsense. I Will be back with an update hopefully when I can feel my fingers again eek..
I'm wondering if its possible if installing the axles on the wrong sides could cause this seeing as the are different lengths..?
Realoem shows the same axle for both sides -
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...&q=33212228156
-rb
E36 6 cylinder has equal length axles. Some other BMW models do not but I have not closely followed which ones.
I too rub on just the passenger side, definitely an e36 quirk
No, no it’s not a quirk common to the E36.. it’s not supposed to do that...
No matter where you go, there you are...
I have 17x9 et30 wheels, and I used to rub on the driver side until I rolled it tighter. Then Michelin made the PS4S just slightly wider than the Super Sport, and now I rub on the passenger side.
There's no mystery here - I know why I rub.
I know I contributed to the "it just does that" mentality, but I should have been a little more considerate of some of the newer people here who couldn't put my wheel size / offset comments in context.
RRSperry is right - if you're rubbing you should know why, especially running factory wheel sizes.
Post some photos.
Your alignment is royally fucked if you are rubbing with stock wheels in the rear, no matter how much of a drop you've got. The question is how it got there. Pbonsalb listed the possibilities. Check all of them.
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