So I've been re-assembling my track car from the chassis up and have finally gotten to the point of reconnecting lights. The entire chassis harness had been removed and reinstalled as a part of the rebuild. I've removed a ton of unused wiring - primarily related to sound system and HVAC, seat wiring - all items useless for a track car. I retained most of the modules to avoid creating an electrical issue (oh well I guess). The ABS/ASC and EWS are gone, as is the Cruise Control. I've retained the wiring for the body module - so all of the wiring in the doors and locking systems were retained - again to avoid creating a potential issue.
Last night, I finally had the rear brake lights back installed, and ran into a strange issue. The brake lights work, but only a couple times, before they go totally out and no longer respond to the brake switch at the pedal. Turn signals and driving lights all seem okay. Switch is working based on it working before sopping. The only item I've messed with during this was connecting and disconnecting the locking module in the trunk lid. Looking over the ETK, I don't see any connections between these units that could create a problem.
The other issue that is potentially related if it has to do with a control module is the high-beams. They work in flash mode, but if I push the stalk forward to lock high beams on they don't work. Seems like a switch issue more than related to the brake light issue but figured I'd share in the event it is related somehow.
Anyone else run into this? Starting to think I may just wire the brake lights direct from the switch. Any suggestions on where to look for common issues?
On my 95, the brake light circuit was routed through the "Check Control Module".
But yea, there's zero downside to wiring the brake lights directly through the brake light switch. I ran that way for a few years.
(Now, I activate brake lights via a pressure switch.)
My car has no modules or stock wiring so not a good example but my brake light power is wired direct through the switch.
I figured it out - the switch ended up being bad. It worked intermittently, but would start to fail after a few brake depressions.
Now though, I'm realizing my brake pedal isn't returning fully to close the switch off so the lights are now staying on well after letting off the pedal. The car has no booster, and I'm running a dual MC setup. The brakes and lines are all new, including some of the hard lines. The pedal assembly was fully replaced with new springs and pedal bushings, and lubricated. I'll have to play around with the dual MC bracket to make sure there's no binding occurring but when it was installed, it was very smooth. I'll bleed the system again since I want to make sure there's no air in the system and hopefully this will go away.
You might also try adjusting the switch:
In this case the switch adjustment wasn't the issue - it was just a bad switch. New one is installed and all's good including the adjustment to the switch travel distance.
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