Likely Broken Camshaft Bearing - What to do Next?

[yacob555]

On the way home from OKC, car dropped oil and damage happened pretty quickly, mechanic says knocking camshaft bearing.

Car is 5 hours away, he says it may make it home w/ knocking bearing, maybe not.

I do not have anywhere near enough mechanical knowledge, tools or location to do this work myself. I do have a local mechanic I work with.

Options as far as I see it.
1) Pay to have this low power engine rebuilt - in Roanoke, or possibly at home. Still have to figure out why it sputters (likely distributor points, so easy) and why it dropped oil so quickly.
2) Swap something - although I'm paying labor hours to do that, so it'll be costly and likely complicated. At least you'd get more power, which seems is needed. It also currently has a 4 speed, which maybe this is the time to address that too. Although I really didn't hate the 4, surprisingly.

Any other options? Or ideas on how to proceed would be greatly helpful. Generally, looking for the option that decreases the gap between money in and worth at the end of the day. Feels like I'll be negative no matter what, but would like to be less negative. Obviously, a more fun car would be great, too!

God, I bought this car because it was "bulletproof." I'm not super into spending $3k+ on the car I was planning as a nice get around town car, not gonna race or drift or any of that stuff.

Update: mechanic says the knock is coming from a camshaft bearing. Runs enough to get home, but be careful to overrev it.

[autox320]

On the way home from OKC, car dropped oil and damage happened pretty quickly, mechanic says knocking camshaft bearing.

Car is 5 hours away, he says it may make it home w/ knocking bearing, maybe not.

I do not have anywhere near enough mechanical knowledge, tools or location to do this work myself. I do have a local mechanic I work with.

Options as far as I see it.
1) Pay to have this low power engine rebuilt - in Roanoke, or possibly at home. Still have to figure out why it sputters (likely distributor points, so easy) and why it dropped oil so quickly.
2) Swap something - although I'm paying labor hours to do that, so it'll be costly and likely complicated. At least you'd get more power, which seems is needed. It also currently has a 4 speed, which maybe this is the time to address that too. Although I really didn't hate the 4, surprisingly.

Any other options? Or ideas on how to proceed would be greatly helpful. Generally, looking for the option that decreases the gap between money in and worth at the end of the day. Feels like I'll be negative no matter what, but would like to be less negative. Obviously, a more fun car would be great, too!

God, I bought this car because it was "bulletproof." I'm not super into spending $3k+ on the car I was planning as a nice get around town car, not gonna race or drift or any of that stuff.

Update: mechanic says the knock is coming from a camshaft bearing. Runs enough to get home, but be careful to overrev it.

Crankshaft bearing. More specifically one of the rod bearings. There aren't any "camshaft" bearings. Noise is "death rattle" aka rod knock. Explains the oil pressure loss and the hesitation running issues along the way till it failed (cycling bearing and variable compression).

If hasn't destroyed the head can check valves and have head done. Replace check bearings, check and/or maybe replace oil pump. Shops cost expensive depending where you take it. May have to turn crank but not likely on 2.0L they are forged.

Was going to say worst scenarios in your other thread but wanted to wait till you had someone actually diagnose.

[yacob555]

Thanks for the reply/info. I think the sputtering was actually distributor condenser (or both). Mechanic thinks it runs well enough to get it home - 300 highway miles.

Would you pay to repair or just go M20 swap (or other)?

Putting thousands into that engine seems like a waste, depending on how much it’d cost.

[autox320]

Thanks for the reply/info. I think the sputtering was actually distributor condenser (or both). Mechanic thinks it runs well enough to get it home - 300 highway miles.

Would you pay to repair or just go M20 swap (or other)?

Putting thousands into that engine seems like a waste, depending on how much it’d cost.

No idea cause I do everything myself. If motor is salvageable could be just a few hundred bucks but lots of labor which is what kills you if a shop is doing it. At that point yeah M20 swap, keep stock, injected etc would be just as good. Maybe M42 also an option.

btw someone will want the motor parts. Block, crank, head are all worth something to us M10 enthusiasts. 2L cranks are still sought after. Good blocks and heads etc.

I'd say your not making it far on no oil pressure.

[SenorTaylor]

So, to be clear, you're talking about what you would do AFTER getting it home?

If you're trying to figure out what to do right now, call a tow company and get it home so you can take your time and do the right thing.


If I were you, I'd just find another M10 and have them swap the motor. A good mechanic can do it in a day and it shouldn't cost you more than 2-3k ideally to pay an independent shop. This could also be a great learning opportunity to do it yourself (swapping an m10 is easier than trying to an engine rebuild).

The m20 swap is going to involve sourcing a decent amount of parts and you're not entirely in love with the car, so that's probably not the best idea. I would sense seeing a half done project on eBay in the next few months. If you can't do it yourself, I feel wary of putting that in someone else's hands.

I'm right outside DC on 495 on your way up to Philly if there's any way I can help. You're in Roanoke VA?

[yacob555]

So, to be clear, you're talking about what you would do AFTER getting it home?

If you're trying to figure out what to do right now, call a tow company and get it home so you can take your time and do the right thing.


If I were you, I'd just find another M10 and have them swap the motor. A good mechanic can do it in a day and it shouldn't cost you more than 2-3k ideally to pay an independent shop. This could also be a great learning opportunity to do it yourself (swapping an m10 is easier than trying to an engine rebuild).

The m20 swap is going to involve sourcing a decent amount of parts and you're not entirely in love with the car, so that's probably not the best idea. I would sense seeing a half done project on eBay in the next few months. If you can't do it yourself, I feel wary of putting that in someone else's hands.

I'm right outside DC on 495 on your way up to Philly if there's any way I can help. You're in Roanoke VA?

Appreciate the thoughts and offer to help!

I do like the car, liked it as it was and definitely would like it with some upgraded power. I just figure the marginal cost of an upgraded engine could definitely be worth it (and add to overall value). $2-3k to put in another M10 seems like essentially pure cost, thinking I may as well get something out of the money!

I have a ton planned otherwise that I am capable of doing - seats, steering wheel, already have euro bumpers, valence, stereo, wheels, suspension. I'm just really not experienced or equipped for an engine swap on my own. It's possible I could learn engine repair but that's a bit to chew off having never done more than a valley pan gasket/cooling system.

Just a pic for reference, in love w/ the color

[okieflats]

Great looking car. I would swap in a good M10, may be a 1.8 liter because that would be easier to find, then look into overhauling the 2.0 liter it has. I would want to buy it off you if it were out my way.

[DougIng]

BimmerWorld is about an hour south on I-81 in Dublin.

[okieflats]

I have a "good" M10, except for the fuel distributor and injectors. The head, block, bottom end, pistons all OK. It's just the fuel system. Good m10's should be easy to come by.

[autox320]

Very nice ride man. Car is worthy to be complete. It's a classic, and these are circumstances that can defy logic to have such a nice car. Sure you can be frugal but putting in the extra is sometimes the only way. Besides when done it's yours and you build a relationship with it.

Our example: It didn't make sense to spend so much making a E21 racecar. But the effort and satisfaction we had building it, engineering challenges, skills, driving fun, all with my Dad outweighs any dollar amount.

[yacob555]

Very nice ride man. Car is worthy to be complete. It's a classic, and these are circumstances that can defy logic to have such a nice car. Sure you can be frugal but putting in the extra is sometimes the only way. Besides when done it's yours and you build a relationship with it.

Our example: It didn't make sense to spend so much making a E21 racecar. But the effort and satisfaction we had building it, engineering challenges, skills, driving fun, all with my Dad outweighs any dollar amount.

Yeah I totally agree, I don't plan to do anything half-assed, but also want to go for something that a) I can accomplish and b) won't be a guaranteed huge money loss. If I was doing something in my personal shop w/ my dad or something, I'd totally agree. I'll have to have this work basically paid for at a shop, so money really does start to matter.

Either way, getting excited that I can improve the car a bit, if I am going to have to invest some either way.

- - - Updated - - -

I have a "good" M10, except for the fuel distributor and injectors. The head, block, bottom end, pistons all OK. It's just the fuel system. Good m10's should be easy to come by.

I'll keep that in mind, fuel system on my car has been pretty refreshed so it could be a good match if I stay stock.

Thanks!

[SenorTaylor]

Let us know if you need help sourcing anything. Al Taylor (324tdi@gmail.com) has a few E21s in his yards and I'm sure he's happy to sell you an M10. Luckily, the M10 is the least interesting part of your car, so the value is still there.

[Rushfan1]

Nothing to add technically here, just wishing you success in getting your nice E21 home. Good luck.

[320iAman]

Get it home, pull the motor and rebuild , its a 2.0L stick with that-Its a very good looking car a keeper, rebuilding the motor will give you many many years of reliable use.. Connecting Rods, crankshafts ect can be reground, straightened ,and made a new. Right now your having issues with the car--it will clear up with a plan of repair...


Randy

[amarino]

Yeah if you have the space / garage you can take your time and learn along the way.

[gsumzzz]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bmw-E21-320...0AAOSwUlBeX0qZ

cheap way out

- - - Updated - - -

virginia
you drove past it

[yacob555]

Nothing to add technically here, just wishing you success in getting your nice E21 home. Good luck.

Thank you, I really appreciate it.

- - - Updated - - -

Let us know if you need help sourcing anything. Al Taylor (324tdi@gmail.com) has a few E21s in his yards and I'm sure he's happy to sell you an M10. Luckily, the M10 is the least interesting part of your car, so the value is still there.

Appreciate it, will do!

[OLD MAN]

I rebuilt the M10 1.8 in my 1980 320i when it had 212,000 miles on it. Rebuilt it because I cracked the head playing with it at 7,200 rpm, the silver car pictured below.

Anyway the bores still had signs hone marks in them. I cleaned everything up re honed the bores, put in new standard rings, turned the crank 20/20 over with new bearings and put the bottom end back together.

Point is these M10's are made from HIGH QUALITY MATERIALS!! So rebuilding one is not a risk.

[SenorTaylor]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bmw-E21-320...0AAOSwUlBeX0qZ

cheap way out

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virginia
you drove past it

He drove like 3 hours past it. I've bought stuff from that guy in Richmond. That's an absurd price for an m10. High mileage and a 1.8 instead of a 2.0. I sold a low mileage 1.8 for like $300 and even that was a crazy good deal for me.

[yacob555]

He drove like 3 hours past it. I've bought stuff from that guy in Richmond. That's an absurd price for an m10. High mileage and a 1.8 instead of a 2.0. I sold a low mileage 1.8 for like $300 and even that was a crazy good deal for me.

Glad to hear you say that - $1400 for the same engine didn't feel like the "easy" option, whew!

[gsumzzz]

But $300 is easy. Just a conversation starter. Good luck with your e21. You will learn a ton.

[yacob555]

Driving the baby home on Saturday, hopefully she'll limp home. Mechanic says it should be okay with a healthy diet of STP.

A rebuild of the M10 is in the strong lead for candidate to get it back on the road.

If I'm already doing all the work of a rebuild, are there any performance upgrades that should be made in that process?

[yacob555]

Mechanic in Roanoke said it it needed oil and a distributor adjustment and was running fine. Needed to warm up but then would run really nicely and should make it home.

Get there (shop closed), car is not running fine, it actually died twice within 5 minutes (after taking 5 attempts to start). Within 5 miles it starts making a loud noise and blows a hole in the block.

She's dead, still in Roanoke. There's a hole in the block I can fit my hand in. Flying home. :/

[Tom D]

lesson learned, never drive an engine with a rod knock! you didn't only damage the block but also a rod and the crank will need a regrind.

find a used 2 liter, add bottom end bearings, rings and a hone job, freshen the head and call it a day. after that look for a M42 or a M20 to swap in.

[yacob555]

lesson learned, never drive an engine with a rod knock! you didn't only damage the block but also a rod and the crank will need a regrind.

find a used 2 liter, add bottom end bearings, rings and a hone job, freshen the head and call it a day. after that look for a M42 or a M20 to swap in.

Yeah, fair enough. I trusted the mechanic's advice but could have known better.

You think that is a better plan than just finding a working M10 and doing a direct swap?

Was really into the M20 swap but realized it would be $3k+ just with parts and I'm already in a budget hole here, sadly.