Convertible Top Motor won't reset, clicking endlessly

[jakelmitchell]

Hey vert gang,

I am at my wits end with my 98 m3 vert (as always). I am currently going through the reset procedure for my auto soft top. When the tonneau is attempting to shut at the beginning of the reset procedure, it seems my top motor is out of gear, making a repeated clicking sound as if the gear is just spinning in place and hitting the teeth. The tonneau also stutters up and down as this happens, not closing. Any suggestions on how to fix this? The top motor seems to be sitting properly, I've tried advancing the teeth on the motor a bit but they won't budge.

[JDStrickland]

It's bent.

Remove the liner from inside of the trunk, left side, and you will see the roof and tonneau cover motors. The roof motor has the two red screws marked S1 and S2 -- do not turn these screws. The metal brackets that the motors are attached to can bend if there is a lateral load applied to them, and this can make it so that the motors do not engage fully with the gears.

[whiteraver]

Seems like we are having the same issue. See in this video - is this what you're experiencing ?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12jB...ew?usp=sharing

[jakelmitchell]

That’s exactly it! Same problem

- - - Updated - - -

I see, how can this be remedied? Why should s1 and s2 not be turned?

[clabs]

The motor mounting plates are bent. When they bend, the teeth on the gears don't engage properly so they clatter/clunk instead. Remove motors and straighten the mounting plates and all should be well.

S1 & S2 adjust the timing of the roof so yes - don't touch them because it won't help your problem.

Good luck

Mark

[jakelmitchell]

Mark,

Got to digging and took out the Mount + motor. You were right. I can even see on the opening where the gears started grinding the aluminum.

Now the problem is bending it back - I don’t see where the flexing occurred to begin with, nor the weakest link where I could potentially bend it back to place. Thoughts? Just need some brute strength?

[JDStrickland]

That’s exactly it! Same problem

- - - Updated - - -

I see, how can this be remedied? Why should s1 and s2 not be turned?

S1 and S2 are timing adjustments for the roof position. There are switches on the frame of the roof and it is important for the timing that S1 and/or S2 be made at a certain time along with these switches in the frame, if you change S1 or S2 and then the timing is wrong, then you will battle roof faults. For example, the tonneau cover knows that the tension bow is raised, so now the tonneau cover can open or close, this happens by S1 and S2. S1 and S2 are not part of the grinding noises that you have. The grinding comes entirely from the bracket of the motor being bent, preventing the motor from closing all of the way to fully engage the gears.

[clabs]

Mark,

Got to digging and took out the Mount + motor. You were right. I can even see on the opening where the gears started grinding the aluminum.

Now the problem is bending it back - I don’t see where the flexing occurred to begin with, nor the weakest link where I could potentially bend it back to place. Thoughts? Just need some brute strength?

Jake. I think you can separate the motor from the rest of the assembly - you can knock the pin out that the motor hinges on. The bending in the plate is often barely visible - only 1mm or so. Also, if this has been going on for a while, you might find that the motor gear has become worn. You can buy a replacement gear on fleabay although I don't have any personal experience of them.

Alternatively, you could shoot a PM to forum member 66 6. He often has good used motors for sale.

In the meantime, here are a couple of threads that might help:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...op-not-working
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ng-Help-please

Good luck!

Cheers, Mark

[jakelmitchell]

Thanks mark! Also good to know about the hinge pin - that caused me a lot of trouble when I was attempting to pull the motor off the plate.

Thank you all for your guidance, I was able to pull out the mount and straighten it ever so slightly, enough for it to re-engage. My top is still out of wack, but it at least closes up.

[clabs]

Nice one Jake - and one thing to tick of your roof list. What is it doing/not doing now?

Cheers, Mak

[krab03]

I had a similar problem with my auto top. I looked at some Youtube videos, pulled the handle under the back seat to disengage the two motors, then I was able to collapse the top and close the hard cover. Ran into the problem of the trunk being locked, because the hard top wasn't down far enough on the passenger side to trip the sensor. So I put a toolbox on top of it, and the viola, the trunk was now unlocked. I reset both motors, held the switch in the "close" position, and the hard top fully closed. Then I tried to raise the top, and all I got was this loud grinding noise, no motion of the hard cover at all. I took it to a local BMW shop, and $1113 later ($500 for a used motor, rest was labor, tax, shop supplies), my top works like it should. Now my Check Engine Light is on, along with the ASC and ABS lights...

[JDStrickland]

I had a similar problem with my auto top. I looked at some Youtube videos, pulled the handle under the back seat to disengage the two motors, then I was able to collapse the top and close the hard cover. Ran into the problem of the trunk being locked, because the hard top wasn't down far enough on the passenger side to trip the sensor. So I put a toolbox on top of it, and the viola, the trunk was now unlocked. I reset both motors, held the switch in the "close" position, and the hard top fully closed. Then I tried to raise the top, and all I got was this loud grinding noise, no motion of the hard cover at all. I took it to a local BMW shop, and $1113 later ($500 for a used motor, rest was labor, tax, shop supplies), my top works like it should. Now my Check Engine Light is on, along with the ASC and ABS lights...

Get an ELM-327 module from eBay or Amazon (your choice) and Torque Pro or OBD Fusion from your app store, and pull the codes. These apps have free versions that will give codes and reset the light, but the fee versions I mentioned can give data that can be graphed. The ABS and ASC lights cannot be diagnosed with the apps I gave, but they are related. If your car has stopped giving speed data to the engine computer, then this could show up as a check engine and ABS/ASC lights.

[krab03]

Get an ELM-327 module from eBay or Amazon (your choice) and Torque Pro or OBD Fusion from your app store, and pull the codes. These apps have free versions that will give codes and reset the light, but the fee versions I mentioned can give data that can be graphed. The ABS and ASC lights cannot be diagnosed with the apps I gave, but they are related. If your car has stopped giving speed data to the engine computer, then this could show up as a check engine and ABS/ASC lights.

So here's the Amazon search results for an ELM-327:

Amazon.com : elm-327

I'm an analog guy in a digital world, so bear with me here. Is the one you're referring to one of the small blue ones, the "mini"? Then I suppose there's an app I download to my phone, and between the two, I'll be able to read / clear those codes?

[JDStrickland]

This one has lots of 5-star reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/obdator-Bluet...motive&sr=1-18.

[krab03]

This one has lots of 5-star reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/obdator-Bluet...motive&sr=1-18.

I'm not a big fan of those bluetooth types...found this one on Amazon, handheld unit that can read BMW codes. Might get this one instead:
Amazon.com: Professional OBD2 Scanner Code Reader for BMW Mini,AUTOPHIX 5900 Multi-Systems Diagnostic Scan Tool with ABS/Transmission/BMS/PCM/EPB/SAS/Oil Reset Battery Registration: Automotive

[krab03]

I'm not a big fan of those bluetooth types...found this one on Amazon, handheld unit that can read BMW codes. Might get this one instead:
Amazon.com: Professional OBD2 Scanner Code Reader for BMW Mini,AUTOPHIX 5900 Multi-Systems Diagnostic Scan Tool with ABS/Transmission/BMS/PCM/EPB/SAS/Oil Reset Battery Registration: Automotive

So I pulled the trigger and bought this handheld scanner unit. If it works as advertised, and I can diagnose and clear typical warning lights like CEL, ABS, ACS, etc., it'll be worth it. From reading thru the reviews, you have to register your car battery when you replace it?! WTF is that all about!

[krab03]

So I pulled the trigger and bought this handheld scanner unit. If it works as advertised, and I can diagnose and clear typical warning lights like CEL, ABS, ACS, etc., it'll be worth it. From reading thru the reviews, you have to register your car battery when you replace it?! WTF is that all about!

Well, seems that this handheld unit works on all the functions EXCEPT for the ABS/ASC stuff. Tried hooking it up to the port under the dash, AND the round port in the engine compartment, neither one would diagnose the ABS/ASC system. Looks like I'll have to take it to the indy shop that replaced the convertible motor, and see if they can pull the codes and tell me what's wrong...

[galuple]

Unfortunately, any of these OBD readers won’t be able to scan ASC or ABS errors. For that you need a special BMW specific tool that’s compatible with the old style BMW diagnostic port that was used on the E36.

This guy does the job: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...gaAlzFEALw_wcB


If it helps though, your other post asking about registering the battery? It’s not a thing on these cars. Newer BMW owners can deal with that.

[jakelmitchell]

So now I attempted the reset procedure again as my motor is now in alignment - but the reset fails. When I start the reset with my top down, the tonneau lid closes, but it does not open to allow the top to come back up. In fact, I can hear the top latch motor spinning underneath the tonneau. When I try the reset procedure with the top UP, the top stores properly, but the tonneau stays vertical and doesn’t even attempt to close. Thoughts?

[jakelmitchell]

Bump